Laurel Mountain Forge stain (Lancaster maple) and rubbed in clear coats (Permalyn). But it sure helps to start off with good wood grain!
As I always do these dayze for finishing stock wood ...
After sanding down the wood with grits from 120 to 320, I buff out with 0000 steel wool. Then I go over the wood with naphtha (lighter fluid) on paper towels to clear off any oil left from the wooling (all steel wool is oiled to prevent rusting), then I use a magnet to pick up any stray wool hairs, then another buffing with a dry paper towel.
Now I stain the wood, using large round cotton rifle patches in surgical gloved hands. I put stiff copper wire through the lock bolt holes and use it as a hanger of sorts to allow the stain (or clear coats) to cure, hung up off a ceiling stud in my shop - it balances just right, too.
Next up, I put the stock into a padded vise and wick in water thin CYA (Hot Stuff brand - any good quality hobby/medical grade CYA is a must) into the barrel channel and lock mortise areas, spread quickly with a pieces of paper towel. Since this is a po' boy rifle that has no forestock cap nor butt plate, I wick the CYA into those end grain areas as well - really toughens 'em up. This both seals and hardens the wood in areas that don't see much daylight and are magnets for black powder fouling. CYA (CYAnoacrylate "super glue") vapors are Nasty, specially when using the stuff in large quantity applications, so I wear a respirator mask during the wicking in process.
Then the rubbed in clear coats, three total, using the copper wire to hang up the stock during the finish curing.
Topic: M&H .45 Rifle (Read 1685 times)