Ok let me see if I can explain this better
Lets star with the comb
Ill do alittle paint shop here so as to better explain what im saying
The red line is the line I was speaking of . It starts at the heal and ends approximately at the breech where it meets the tang to about ¼ back
Now the blue lines are your lines .
This line should be one line . But notice how the flate of the butt plate creates an angle that doesn’t meet the top line of your comb .
Now if the comb line is a curve . Then the transition from would to metal needs to say even with the curve
Now notice with the red line , it forces you to bring the cheek plate down just about the same amount as what you would take off the comb that’s above the line .
Now IMO you lines for the drop looks real good .running parallel to the bottom edge of the stock
But as you can see the belly droops below the line .
Now that’s not un common .
But I often see this from folks who are worried that they will sand into the RR channel .
Here is how you make sure you don’t do that .
1) measure the thickness of wood below where the RR enters the stock. Now go back under your trigger plate and drill a small feeler hole .
Inset your RR and then slip a wire in the trigger plate hole . This will give you the depth of the wood both at the entry and at the breech end . Mark the depth of each on the side of the stock and draw a line between the to makes . That line is the bottom of the RR channel inside the stock . If you stay at least 1/8 away from it , you will be safe .
Now for your nose cap the two red arrows show the high point in you shaping . See the dip between the two . There should be no dip
Here is how I do my nose caps
First I bring the stock down to around 80% shape . IE the lines are there but everything is alittle thick . Now I scribe the back of the nose cap so that the line is just a tad short of where it will be when fully inlet . I then cut into the stock and t remove the wood forward of the nose cap line just enough that the cap will slide on . Then I blacken the back of the cap . Removing the wood tell the cap fully comes back .
Here are a couple photos to show you what I mean . now these pictures are for a poured nose cap but I think they will show you what im getting at
now notice at this point i also have not done the inlays .
but it is at 70-80 % is also where i do my inlays . that way i can bring the wood right on down and y sand right across them . when you sand the stock on down , you will end up polishing the inlays .
this they to will be clean and smooth to the wood . IE if you run your finger aceos the wood and onto the inly , you will feel no transition . the line is smooth and clean . your finger cannot tell where the metal starts and the wood ends
now because i left 20% of the wood , i can then come back and sand the top edge along the barrel and block sand a nice strait line.
Now as to the transition to the nose cap . IMO this should be gradual . Starting at the lock mortise and narrowing to the width of the cap . Again making a nice clean line
As to the depth of your triggers .
What I was getting at is that from the mortise the stock should shape to the trigger plate. Depending on the rifle the trigger plate should be just a fraction below the mortise . . On many originals , you will see that the bottom of the mortise is very thin and the would is shaped strait to the trigger plate . On others the wood rounds only alittle before heading to the mortise.
Now back of the triggers it would help you to shape the wrist on down so it comes to about 1/8 from the sides of the trigger plate.
This line is maintained and slowly widens so as to hole the line of the toe plate
Basicly what im getting at here is all your lines should flow and be un broken
Now again . These are just suggestions. Im not saying things were ALLWAYS done this way . In some cases they were not .
hofuly this willhelp you on your long rifle where keeping the lines is very important
Topic: My first rifle build, Flint Hawken (Read 1063 times)