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Author Topic: rusting barrel  (Read 1942 times)

Offline Tom A Hawk

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rusting barrel
« on: July 08, 2017, 08:41:38 PM »
Out of diluted nitric acid solution for browning barrels. Any one know if vinger would work or some thing easy to obtain.

                                                        thanks    tom a hawk

Online Winter Hawk

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Re: rusting barrel
« Reply #1 on: July 11, 2017, 07:02:15 PM »
Here is a document I shamelessly pilfered from the Tradrag site.  It was written and posted by our own Captchee so I hope he won't mind and I won't get in trouble.  :pray:  I would hate to get thrown off this great site for doing something bad!

~WH~
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Offline SharpStick

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Re: rusting barrel
« Reply #2 on: July 12, 2017, 05:02:14 PM »
Interesting.  I saw no mention of anything about keeping the bleach or water only on the outside of the barrel.

I recently did my first BP rifle from a kit. After a lot of waffling between blue or brown, eventually choosing brown. Before I did the barrel I did some scrap steel with the brown and it came out mottled.  Unfortunately, I could never find anything that definitively stated or showed what the barrel should look like after browning. Should the barrel be a solid brown color or is some mottling expected?

Everyone I asked liked the mottled brown color so that influenced my choice of Birchwood Casey Plum Brown. I watched several YouTube videos on how to do it and read the directions several times. I used a couple screws to plug the holes around the nipple. I put a wooden dowel into the barrel and clamped the dowel into a vice to hold the barrel angling down to keep liquids from running into the barrel. And then fired up the propane torch. That worked well.  The process was fairly easy and I'd try it again next time. 

Now, maybe because I don't want to do it again, I like the mottled brown finish.  But, I can't help wondering what the brown finish on original BP rifles looked like.

 


 
The trouble with doing things right the first time is no one realizes how hard it was.
Often, however, the following is more applicable.
I stand corrected, a position somewhat painful to achieve, but once there, is quite satisfying.



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Online Winter Hawk

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Re: rusting barrel
« Reply #3 on: July 13, 2017, 11:44:41 AM »
I have done several rifles with Laurel Mountain Forge's browning solution (http://www.laurelmountainforge.com/) without getting the mottled appearance.  However, I took my time and numerous applications, wash off & carding, etc.  About a week IIRC.  The end result was a uniform brown color.  Since the solution is wiped on there is no real need to protect the bore.  I did take a piece of board and drilled a hole in it into which I glued a dowel.  I set the barrel on this with the muzzle down so it wasn't in contact with anything else while it was rusting.

~WH~
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Offline SharpStick

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Re: rusting barrel
« Reply #4 on: July 13, 2017, 02:29:32 PM »
When I was learning how to do the browning, nowhere did I see any mention of carding. Now I see it in the BLEACH BROWNING and in the instructions on Laurel Mountain Forge. I can see where that would produce an unmottled finish.  Don't know whether I can use the Laurel Mountian Forge method. It mentions relying on humidity to get a good rust. It is too dry here in AZ.  Monsoon season has just started up, the most humid time of the year, and its only about 15%, might make 30% at most.

 I still want to hear opinions on what is most correct as a reproduction of original mountain man BP rifles.

When I did my barrel (and the whole rifle) I was working against a deadline to have it ready for a Boy Scout Mountain Man Rendezvous last March. It is a Traditions percussion mountain rifle. The fit to the stock wasn't great to start with. I pulled out my wood carving tools and got it to fit fairly good, except the fit of the brass on the butt of the stock was horrible, still has gaps. I'm still pondering how to deal with that. Now that I have more time I hoping to go back and finish up all the little things that need improved. But first I've got to finish the patch knife I've started. What with all the great advice and info on this site, how can I go wrong!

To this point I've spent more time working on my rifle than shooting it.  But I enjoy both.  ;D
The trouble with doing things right the first time is no one realizes how hard it was.
Often, however, the following is more applicable.
I stand corrected, a position somewhat painful to achieve, but once there, is quite satisfying.



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Posts ending  9/20/20 - (?)

Online rollingb

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Re: rusting barrel
« Reply #5 on: July 13, 2017, 03:26:33 PM »
When I was learning how to do the browning, nowhere did I see any mention of carding. Now I see it in the BLEACH BROWNING and in the instructions on Laurel Mountain Forge. I can see where that would produce an unmottled finish.  Don't know whether I can use the Laurel Mountian Forge method. It mentions relying on humidity to get a good rust. It is too dry here in AZ.  Monsoon season has just started up, the most humid time of the year, and its only about 15%, might make 30% at most.

 I still want to hear opinions on what is most correct as a reproduction of original mountain man BP rifles.

When I did my barrel (and the whole rifle) I was working against a deadline to have it ready for a Boy Scout Mountain Man Rendezvous last March. It is a Traditions percussion mountain rifle. The fit to the stock wasn't great to start with. I pulled out my wood carving tools and got it to fit fairly good, except the fit of the brass on the butt of the stock was horrible, still has gaps. I'm still pondering how to deal with that. Now that I have more time I hoping to go back and finish up all the little things that need improved. But first I've got to finish the patch knife I've started. What with all the great advice and info on this site, how can I go wrong!

To this point I've spent more time working on my rifle than shooting it.  But I enjoy both.  ;D
Plug the muzzle with something to keep the moisture out, and the same with the vent/nipple,.... and put your barrel in the bathroom and leave it there while you take some showers.
Just make sure there is no oil/grease on the barrel when you do this.  :bl th up
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Online PetahW

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Re: rusting barrel
« Reply #6 on: July 13, 2017, 05:39:21 PM »


 I could never find anything that definitively stated or showed what the barrel should look like after browning.

Should the barrel be a solid brown color or is some mottling expected ?

 


FWIW, the 2 different .50cal Austin & Halleck Mountain Rifles I had (two different rifles) were browned, and the finish was smooth like bluing, but a solid brown.





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Online Winter Hawk

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Re: rusting barrel
« Reply #7 on: July 13, 2017, 07:54:49 PM »
Plug the muzzle with something to keep the moisture out, and the same with the vent/nipple,.... and put your barrel in the bathroom and leave it there while you take some showers.
Just make sure there is no oil/grease on the barrel when you do this.  :bl th up
Another idea might be to make a small tent out of plastic with a humidifier in it to provide the needed moisture.  That could be in the yard, garage, basement, anywhere that it's out of the way.

~WH~
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Offline Loyalist Dave

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Re: rusting barrel
« Reply #8 on: July 14, 2017, 09:32:08 AM »
Out of diluted nitric acid solution for browning barrels. Any one know if vinger would work or some thing easy to obtain.


If you want that professional brown, then you want either the Laurel Mountain cold brown, OR the Birchwood Casey browning solution, which is a DIY browning that needs high heat. 

IF you want to patina a barrel, in other words you have a rifle or gun that may have been sold "armory bright", or was bought that way then shipped overland and by canoe to where you bought it..., and it didn't start life browned or blued, and you want the exterior of the barrel to look like it has spent may days and nights out in various weather, misty, rainy, foggy, humid since you bought it, so has changed color as rust has started to form, but has been halted by you using oil...???..., you want to use mustard

Yes the inexpensive, yellow condiment, has a large amount of vinegar, but unlike straight vinegar, the mustard may be applied in a layer while straight vinegar will bead up on a metal surface like a rifle barrel.  So you apply a thin layer of mustard to the barrel with your  finger tip, after you have removed the barrel from the stock, and have degreased it.  Hang the barrel up via a wire coat hanger and the tang screw hole so the barrel touches nothing as touching the mustard will remove it and thus not stain the steel.  Allow the mustard to dry for two to three days.  The mustard will go from bright yellow, to a dull, hard brown color.  Using a soft toothbrush, you then rinse and scrub the barrel under some tap water (the shower works great for this), dry the barrel and repeat.  After two or three applications, the surface of the barrel will be stained, but not in a uniform manner as you would get with Laurel Mountain.  It also does not give you pits in your barrel as chlorine may cause, and it doesn't give your barrel a case of freckles as you get when using plain vinegar and it beads up on you.

After the third application,  remove the dried mustard, rinse with a gallon of water and a 1/4 cup of baking soda, followed by drying and a coat of oil.  You're done if you like the results.

if not, and you want a little less staining you can carefully using a very fine piece of emery paper and gun-oil (like 800-1000 grit) polish the barrel stains down a bit..., it's your choice.  If you really don't like the results you can continue to polish the barrel back to an unstained condition. 

I hit upon the mustard idea about a 15 years ago when working a barrel while at the same time having a very active 2 year old boy in the house.  The advantage of the mustard is that it's also non-toxic, while nitric acid solutions, hot browning solutions, and bleach are a different matter.   ;)

LD

   
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Online Hank in WV

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Re: rusting barrel
« Reply #9 on: July 14, 2017, 05:08:48 PM »
I get the same results as Dave gets, only my way takes longer. When building a gun, I don't go any farther than draw-filing the barrel. Then, every time I clean the gun after shooting, I take the lock off and take a damp patch and wipe the residue off around the touch hole and the frizzen and pan. I save that patch and clean then gun as usual. When done, I take that filthy patch and wipe down the barrel. You have to be patient but after time the barrel will slowly rust and turn brown. I always thought that commercial browning agents made it look like it was an applied finish. Anyway, that's my way but certainly not the only way.
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Offline Eric Krewson

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Re: rusting barrel
« Reply #10 on: July 16, 2017, 09:43:22 AM »
With LMF done properly you should get a very deep brown color.


Offline Loyalist Dave

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Re: rusting barrel
« Reply #11 on: July 16, 2017, 12:06:34 PM »
Yes i would not suggest that LMF wasn't an excellent way to go  :bl th up..., in fact it's "too good" (imho)  if you're going with a weathered appearance instead of an intentional brown. 

LD
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Online Winter Hawk

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Re: rusting barrel
« Reply #12 on: July 17, 2017, 09:27:19 PM »
But WHY a weathered appearance?  I doubt if someone back "in the day" went to a gunsmith and wanted a gun which looked like it had seen a hundred years of use, they would want something which looked new and would provide many years of service.  Just as we do now if we are looking for a using firearm.  I have read about this for years and couldn't figure it out.  I remember an article I read long ago where the author described taking his new smoothbore and cooking a chain to it, then dragging it behind his truck to get the required "used" look.  I just don't get it!

~WH~
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Online Bigsmoke

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Re: rusting barrel
« Reply #13 on: July 18, 2017, 01:28:57 PM »
But WHY a weathered appearance?  I doubt if someone back "in the day" went to a gunsmith and wanted a gun which looked like it had seen a hundred years of use, they would want something which looked new and would provide many years of service.  Just as we do now if we are looking for a using firearm.  I have read about this for years and couldn't figure it out.  I remember an article I read long ago where the author described taking his new smoothbore and cooking a chain to it, then dragging it behind his truck to get the required "used" look.  I just don't get it!

~WH~

Well, I was just starting to formulate a reply to this thread and I read your post.  My very thoughts indeed.  Bravo!

A humidity box is another option for finishing the barrel.  Make a box long enough to fit the barrel, have a pan of water in it and a 100 watt light bulb.  That will do the thing.
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Online Winter Hawk

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Re: rusting barrel
« Reply #14 on: July 18, 2017, 10:17:50 PM »
the author described taking his new smoothbore and cooking a chain to it, then dragging it behind his truck....

OOPS!!! That should be HOOKING, with an H!  :Doh!

~WH~
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