Post by: amm1851 on August 24, 2016, 01:35:05 PM
Thanks for any suggestions.
Post by: rollingb on August 24, 2016, 04:23:39 PM
Lock bolts too tight and putting things in a bind.
Sear bolt too tight.
Gunk/rust/wood chip/casting flash partially blocking sear's half-cock notch.
Weak sear spring.
Those are the first things I'd check.
Post by: RobD on August 24, 2016, 05:09:30 PM
Post by: Bigsmoke on August 24, 2016, 06:00:24 PM
The other thing that might be causing the problem is the lock wishes it were percussion and is just acting up so that you convert it to a cap gun. lol
But, what do I know about flinters?
John
Post by: RobD on August 24, 2016, 06:06:22 PM
Post by: amm1851 on August 24, 2016, 06:10:43 PM
Post by: RobD on August 24, 2016, 06:31:44 PM
is this a new lock or rarely used lock? was it bought new or used? did it always work well before? was any work done on it?
attempt to go to half cock and report back what happens - does the sear not fully engage the notch? is there some wiggle in either the tumbler or sear cams?
(http://i.imgur.com/1JRg07U.jpg)
Post by: doggoner on August 24, 2016, 07:59:38 PM
doggoner
Post by: RobD on August 24, 2016, 09:22:37 PM
Quote from: "doggoner"
Your best bet would be to send the lock back to Jim Chambers and have his folks look at it. They have forgotten more about Chambers locks than us "rookies" could learn in a lifetime of "part time" gunsmithing. When in doubt, go to the experts. Just my humble opinion. One thing about free advise is it is free and you don't have to follow it.
doggoner
that's a safe and easy and maybe costly bet. however, simply cleaning the lock and observing what it's doing isn't invasive and may wind up either fixing the problem and/or educating its owner, none of which is a bad thing. yeah, advise sure is free, as are opinions of everyone.
Post by: rollingb on August 24, 2016, 10:55:02 PM
Quote from: "bigsmoke"
Good thoughts from rolling b and rfd.:laffing
The other thing that might be causing the problem is the lock wishes it were percussion and is just acting up so that you convert it to a cap gun. lol
But, what do I know about flinters?
John
Post by: amm1851 on August 24, 2016, 11:08:35 PM
Post by: rollingb on August 24, 2016, 11:53:50 PM
If it does, then you can decide if you want to take the lock apart and clean out whatever is in the notch.
Ideally,.... you should use a mainspring vice when taking a lock apart so the chance of breaking the mainspring is reduced. If you don't have a mainspring vice, I can loan you one, or you can get one here......... Mainspring Vise, to safely compress a mainspring - Track of the Wolf (https://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/115/1/TOOL-VISE)
Post by: amm1851 on August 25, 2016, 01:34:10 AM
Post by: RobD on August 25, 2016, 06:05:34 AM
sight unseen, my guess is that it's dirty and/or something worked loose. clean and lube it well, paying particular attention to the tumbler and sear. then before sticking it back in its stock mortise, just work the cock and carefully observe. if the issue remains, and you either don't have a mainspring vise or the desire to pull it all apart, send it off for a proper repair.
however, if you have the gumption to want to further investigate and hopefully fix the lock yerself, bravo, go for it. there's nothing better than taking care and control of yer own gear. using a mainspring vise and disassembling a lock is not at all hard to do. you can always take images of each step of your progress. there's nothing about taking apart a chambers lock that's critical and you will do yerself a favor by gaining valuable experience. worse case scenario, and you can't reassemble the lock, it won't matter much if it's shipped apart or together for jim or some other competent smith to get to the root problem and make it work well again.
imho, unless that lock got buggered in some manner, failing to remain on half cock is usually a dirt or loose part situation.
Post by: rollingb on August 25, 2016, 09:28:06 AM
Quote from: "rfd"
a really good quality lock, like yer chambers, doesn't at all normally work well for a fair amount of time and then just start working erratically all on its own. something had to make that happen. it'd be highly unlikely that the half cock tumbler notch got buggered, but it could happen.I agree, at some point one should acquaint themselves on how these locks work and what it takes to keep them working!
sight unseen, my guess is that it's dirty and/or something worked loose. clean and lube it well, paying particular attention to the tumbler and sear. then before sticking it back in its stock mortise, just work the cock and carefully observe. if the issue remains, and you either don't have a mainspring vise or the desire to pull it all apart, send it off for a proper repair.
however, if you have the gumption to want to further investigate and hopefully fix the lock yerself, bravo, go for it. there's nothing better than taking care and control of yer own gear. using a mainspring vise and disassembling a lock is not at all hard to do. you can always take images of each step of your progress. there's nothing about taking apart a chambers lock that's critical and you will do yerself a favor by gaining valuable experience. worse case scenario, and you can't reassemble the lock, it won't matter much if it's shipped apart or together for jim or some other competent smith to get to the root problem and make it work well again.
imho, unless that lock got buggered in some manner, failing to remain on half cock is usually a dirt or loose part situation.
Post by: amm1851 on August 25, 2016, 10:52:28 AM
Post by: Bigsmoke on August 25, 2016, 02:00:17 PM
Pull the cock back to full cock. Set the crescent wrench or vice grips to fit over the compressed main spring. Release the cock. Now it will be easy to just remove the spring. Leave the main spring in the vice grips or crescent wrench. When you are ready to re-assemble the lock, simply reverse the procedure.
Personally, I prefer this method to using a main spring vice.
This also works pretty well for removing a frizzen spring.
YMMV, etc.
John
Post by: Mike Brooks on August 26, 2016, 08:18:11 AM
Post by: Rocklock on August 26, 2016, 11:19:51 PM
Post by: rollingb on August 27, 2016, 12:32:54 AM
Quote from: "Rocklock"
Not familiar w this lock but IF it has a fly, the fly may be sticking.Yep,.... that is another possibility.
Post by: amm1851 on August 27, 2016, 01:40:53 AM
Post by: waksupi on September 08, 2016, 04:23:57 PM
When I started building guns, I always wanted the inletting to be as close as possible. I have found over the years, this is not a good thing. Fine in the shop and dry weather, but take it out in wet weather, or send it to a damper part of the country, and the lock can stop functioning from the wood swelling. Another good point for a loose ramrod. Fit them too close, and they can swell and stick in the thimbles and forestock. Better to make them skinny, heat them up to put a bit of a bend in them to make them stay in place.
I'm not exactly an amateur, I'm building #169 at the time.
Post by: Winter Hawk on September 17, 2016, 10:48:37 PM
~WH~
Post by: amm1851 on October 04, 2016, 08:18:37 PM
Post by: Ohio Joe on October 05, 2016, 08:24:28 AM
Now 20 shots ain't bad, but truth be known, you should be able to get a whole lot more then that without the inside of the lock getting any kind of dirt/fouling in it. Perhaps it might be something you just have to live with. Good luck.
