Traditional Firearms > Cap and Ball Revolvers

plumber's wax for revolvers???

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R.M.:
Mostly I'll melt beeswax, bore-butter, and olive-oil together, then just dip one side of the wad to the surface of the melt. It'll suck up more than enough, then lay them out on some wax paper.
I've tried various mixtures, and I feel that one's as effective as the other for revolvers.

David Yossi Snellen:
Dear R.M.,
Thanks for the help.  I have to do something to cut cost.
I really appreciate it.
David

Gordon H.Kemp:
FWIW, as I understand it , the rings made for many years were mostly bees-wax, this is no longer the case. I would go with the home grown wads as RM says.

Uncle Russ:

--- Quote from: "Gordon H.Kemp" ---FWIW, as I understand it , the rings made for many years were mostly bees-wax, this is no longer the case. I would go with the home grown wads as RM says.
--- End quote ---

I think Gordy is dead on about "toilet rings" being made a bit differently today.
Many of today's rings have some kind of petroleum in them, and they will make a mess of things in short order, when used as a patch / bullet lube........I would be very careful in the selection of the rings I bought today, as I don't know how to differentiate between the good ones and the ones with a petroleum base.

Just a few thoughts on lube for those who may be interested;
A 1# block of Bees Wax is about $7 or $8 in my neck of the woods, if, and when I beat the Candle Makers to the supply.....and a full one pound block will last a Long time...if ya can keep your buddies out of it. :shock:

Many of the oils work great, such as mink oil.   And many of the rendered animal fats make some of the best lubes available for our uses.
I suspect the bottom line of all this is you don't have to go broke buying lube...it's all around us.

One of the best, most inexpensive lubes, I have ever used is a hand cleaner found at about every Auto Parts store.
It is made by Permatex, and cost about $2.00 for a large 1# can. It is lanolin based, and very user friendly when it comes time for clean up....to use this you melt it with a hair dryer, drop your patches in it, about 40 or 50 at a time, remove them and place the stack of patches between two wooden boards in a vise. Tighten the vise and squeeze the patches dry...put 'em in your patch can and they will last for years.
I know one old timer who has used nothing but this for the past 20 or so years, and anytime he is on the firing line he is a major threat! His name is Doc Crast, and some of you may know him from Friendship.

And of course there is the old reliable "spit-patch" that is readily available to all of us. The trick to using the spit patch is having it damp, not soaking wet.
Since I am a long time friend of Mr. Red Man, when I am outside, and away from Mama Bear...I have decided that spit patchin is just not for me, although there are times when I do use them.
However, They do work great!

David Yossi Snellen:
Dear RussB,
Is that for pistols?
I use spit patch or crisco for my rifles, but I have used wonderwads for my revolvers.  I used to use crisco, but it melts after the 2nd or 3 shot, plus, I have misfires if I don't cap off inbetween cylinder reloadings.  The wonderwads work well, but are pricey.  Does your mixture work for revolvers?
David

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