Thoughts on Leading in a smoothbore?

[Ohio Joe]

When running a naked ball in a smothie I would sure think there would eventually have to be some leading...

What do you guys use, and what do you think about the following product?

https://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/370/1/JB-PASTE

[Winter Hawk]

 

JB Bore Paste is excellent stuff!  It works great on cleaning rifling too.  It has a great reputation.

~Kees~

[Ohio Joe]

Thanks WH, I was pretty sure it had a good reputation, but just wanted to confirm it. I thought it might not be a bad idea to use some on the Smoothie since it's the only smokepole I don't use a patched ball in.  For me, this time of year would be a good time to give the ol' smoothie barrel some preventive maintenance.   

[Uncle Russ]

Joe, JB Bore Paste has been around for years, and it works great.

I use it on the bore of every brand gun I get, before even going to the range.
And, many times on a relative rough BP bores, meaning more than just one spot, I have gone to "Fire Lapping" using VGC (valve grinding compound), then polished nicely with JB Bore Paste...a rule of thumb in this procedure is 10 shots fired, using ball and patch lubed with VGC, wiping between each shot, not wet patched, just wiped, then 100 strokes of the Ramrod using a tight patch with JB.

(Many fellas use tooth paste and BonAmi Scouring Powder, or even Rottenstone, for a similar effect....the object is to smooth the edges of the rifling, whether cut or hammered, there's often times where residue is left behind at the factory that will cut and tear a patch...and ya ain't going to "flush it out" by simply doing a routine cleaning.) 

Here is something interesting to think about;
For years and years I was always afraid of using a "too thin" patch, because conventional wisdom said that was a definite no-no, and I would lead up the rifling in the bore.
I have never seen that, and I shoot lots of self cast, pure lead, ball in several different calibers.

30 plus years ago I got a .69 cal smoothbore and I have shot the "dog" outta this old smoothie using #4, 5, 6, and 7 shot...
My load is Powder, OPC, 1/4" Fiber wad, 1.25 oz shot, and 2 OS Cards.....there is no patch, no shot-cup, no nothing to protect that barrel, yet it has never leaded up that I could see or come even close to measuring.......go figure.

I have never shot a naked ball, I always use a patch, but that's just me, as I know others feel that is the beauty of a smoothbore, being able to avoid that patch and lube mess.

Right now I am search of some; tight weave, .005 thickness, material....just enough material to carry a smidgen of lube, and impart the correct spin on a proper size round ball.

Many say any patch less than .010 will blow through, and lead the barrel....I say baloney!
I say keep that patch thickness to a minimum and increase ball size whenever possible.

For years and years we have heard' "Increase patch thickness, and you can shoot a smaller caliber ball for a higher velocity and better trajectory "....again, I say baloney.
That theory has very limited applications, although it's done on a regular basis because someone doesn't include ball size & patch thickness in their initial accuracy workup....making paper is not my idea of accuracy. 

Uncle Russ... 

[Ohio Joe]

Thanks for the info Russ, I appreciate it. The smooth bore is new ground for me. This past Summer I was just playing around with it (getting the feel of the NWTG Rondo was kind enough to sell me  ) , but come next Summer at the Chadron Rendezvous I want to take part in the smooth bore matches so I want to be sure the bore of the barrel is in prime shape and I have my "ball" and "shot" loads worked up and in order.

I don't expect I'll set the world a'fire with accuracy (as I've always only shot with front & rear sight long guns) but at the Rendezvous, it's primitive trade gun and they will be shooting clay pigeons (shot) and paper (ball) so I want to at least have my ducks in a row so to speak, and who knows, I might hit something,,, even by accident...

[Hanshi]

J&B Paste is truly good stuff.  I don't use it often but do on occasion.  I have used it to "fire lap" and it does a pretty good job.  I usually shoot patched ball in my smoothbore but have a good bare ball load I like.  Never had any leading from that unpatched load.  In rifles I use tight loads with patches from .020" to .025".  My favorite is getting to be cotton canvas duck .022".  It is tight weave and allows a fair amount of compression into the grooves.  I like these loads as they allow me to shoot all afternoon without any wiping of the bore; and the tight weave won't tear. 

[Winter Hawk]

Most Esteemed Uncle,

Why is "fire lapping" better than just using a patch with VGC wrapped around a tight fitting bore brush or swab?  It might take 20 or 30 strokes but wouldn't the end result be the same?  Inquiring minds need to know....

~Kees~

[Uncle Russ]

Kees, I am truly humbled.    WOW!

Fire Lapping provides, obturation, or "Bump-Up" to the ball...once you have bump-up, you automatically get "engraving" on the ball, which in turn means that a small part of the patch with the abrasive on it, is actually riding inside the rifling, and not just riding on the bore, which is what happens when you hand-lap.
The problem with this, if such can be said, is the fact that if it's excessive, it can possibly  effect the depth of the rifling.

By hand-lapping, you actually smooth the bore itself, which adds greatly to accuracy. because the rifling itself has already been cleaned by a recent fire-lapping...however, even if you didn't fire lap before hand, if that patch is too tight, or if you should have the desire to go 3-400 strokes, that barrel can also show excessive signs of wear....modesty is the name of the game in this process, because a 'little dab' goes a long way, even though you can't see it with the naked eye.

Fire lapping is often frowned on by many because they are afraid of somehow damaging the bore.
I can certainly imagine that too course, or too much, of an abrasive could very well do some damage.
However, the VGC  that I have always used has a grit of 220, the "purple" tube...the "red" tube has a grit of 110 and I'm not real sure I would want to go there, as that grit is much more aggressive.

Due to the abrasive action of VGC, it is "typically" limited to 8-10 shots, sometimes even less, when fire-lapping, and I would never recommend more than this without some really good measurements prior to doing so.

The very best lapping can be done with a lead slug from the same barrel using Rottenstone for your abrasive...but that is not something the 'average' shooter has a way, or even a means to do.

Don't let this scare you off........
If your barrel once shot real well, or if it never shot very well at all, right out of the box, a proper hand lapping could result in "being just what the doctor ordered" for that extra accuracy.

Uncle Russ...
 

[Stevep51d]

Another option,
 Go to your local grocery store and buy the Pure Copper scouring pads, Not the copper plate steel ones..They are cheap and no mess..Wrap one around your old used bore brush and run back and forth and presto, No more lead and no bore damage.. Works great also in rifled barrels when shooting maxi balls and the such. I do this on my revolvers to remove lead from forcing cone and bore and it works great

[Hanshi]

Most Esteemed Uncle,

Why is "fire lapping" better than just using a patch with VGC wrapped around a tight fitting bore brush or swab?  It might take 20 or 30 strokes but wouldn't the end result be the same?  Inquiring minds need to know....

~Kees~

Because, well, "fire lapping" sounds "cool".