Traditional Muzzleloading Association

Craftsmanship => Hawks and Knives => Topic started by: Spotted Bull on February 14, 2009, 07:30:08 PM

Title: Antler Handle Question
Post by: Spotted Bull on February 14, 2009, 07:30:08 PM: OK, I was told that you can boil an antler and make it soft enough that you can just shove the tang into it? POssible or not and how long ya gotta boil this thang?
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Post by: pintail_drake2004 on February 14, 2009, 07:30:58 PM: ya it is possible. takes 15min or so, but ya need to check the antler often.
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Post by: Spotted Bull on February 14, 2009, 10:26:32 PM: The tang isn't real long so I think I'm just gonna drill it and epoxy it in.
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Post by: Roaddog on February 15, 2009, 06:00:03 AM: You can heat the tang and burn it in also. It smells bad but it will do the trick.
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Post by: Buffler Razz on February 15, 2009, 06:42:08 AM: I drill mine undersize and then heat the tang and burn it on in. Gives a nice tight fit. Roaddog is right, it stinks. I do still use a bit of JB Weld to help anchor it in.
Razz
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Post by: oomcurt on February 15, 2009, 12:01:14 PM: Kinda curious...I have a section of antler tang from an elk. It is solid...no cracks or such, but, the interior of the antler....well...it is pithy and can be scraped down with a knife. If that pithy stuff is that "loose" can it be possible in time even with epoxy that that "core" will just pull out? Methinks that a pin of some sort would be best....but even so....could the whole thing loosen up in time?

Any comments would be appreciated...thanks,
Curt
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Post by: Roaddog on February 16, 2009, 04:40:28 AM: Curt if you would epoxy and pin it should hold good. The epoxy will soak in and firm up the pithy center. I would use a slow setting epoxy.
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Post by: Buffler Razz on February 16, 2009, 06:44:20 AM: Curt,
I have not had any problems setting blades into the pithy center of antler. Some have been pined and some not. I like to use JB Weld when ever possible. If the epoxy will be seen I will use the clear type epoxy, slow setting type, and add antler or bone shavings to it as a colorant.
Razz
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Post by: Uncle Russ on February 16, 2009, 08:43:59 AM: Quote from: "Roaddog"
You can heat the tang and burn it in also. It smells bad but it will do the trick.

Yep Roaddog! This particular odor is the most permeating, long lasting, disgusting "stink" I know of, especially when the heat is created with a sander or a buffing wheel.
It will literally make a maggot loose his cookies, even weeks after the source has been removed.

I also use pins and JB Weld in lieu of epoxy, where it won't be seen, and I've never had a failure from this stuff.

Uncle Russ...
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Post by: LRB on February 21, 2009, 05:49:57 PM: Randall knives with antler are secured only with epoxy. They stopped pinning in the late 50's, or 60's. No real need to pin, but no harm either. To look correct for early knives though, they should be pinned, or go all the way through and be peened over a washer on the but. I would still use epoxy however. Either method. It makes a good moisture seal, and insures that shrinkage will not loosen anything while adding yet more strength.
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Post by: Falsears on February 22, 2009, 09:35:17 AM: I have done two knives with antler handles. And so you know I had no idea how to do these. I did know that antler will soak up lots of water, so I cut the antler to lenght and put them in a container of water and left them for about four days. I did not use heat because I did not think that I could control it properly. I then took a wood chisel the same size as the tang and started a two inch starter hole. Then each day I would insert the tang and see how far it would go if I used a rubber hammer to drive it in. The first time at about day five it went in about one half inch. So I pulled out and soaked it for a few days more. The second time pounding it went in all the way. That was five years ago and they are both still rock solid. I hope this helps.