Traditional Muzzleloading Association
Craftsmanship => Hawks and Knives => Topic started by: WhiteBlanket on June 17, 2008, 07:30:24 PM
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I was at the woodworking store this week and found two glues I have not used in knifemaking - 'Gorilla Glue" and "Titebond Polyurethane Liquid Glue."
I was wondering if anyone had used these glues in their knifemaking.
Secondly, what are your favorite glues? I am aware of the use of pine pitch and pewter to set a knife blade, but I am more interested in the use of these glues in the attachement of wooden scales to a full tang blade.
One of the other epoxies I bought finishes in an ugly gray and I don't think I will use it again.
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WB, ALL the polyurethane glues expand way too much for knife scales, stick with epoxies, the slower the cure working time on the epoxy the stronger they become when set, now that being said, ive used 5 min epoxy on scales and I double dog dare ya to try to get that wood away from the steel, the wood gives up the ghost and splinters before the adhesion lets go, of course as always others mileage may vary! all depends on how you prep the steel!
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I use the 5 min epoxy also.
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I get mine at NAPA 5 minute and 30 minute cure time and its clear
Use the 30 most of the time don't have to hurry as much
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The only place that Gorilla glue has worked for me is the leather handles of throwing knives and it also works great to gllue back on the ears and legs of the 3-D animal archery targets when they get mishandled or shot off!
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Epoxies are NOT very heat resistant, nor are they resistant to alcohols, either industrial or beverage. The 5 minute set epoxies are not as strong as slow cure, but for knife scales and other applications that don't require a great deal of structural integrity, such as cementing end plugs into powder horns, and things of that nature, the strength differential is only a topic of discussion, not a failure factor. They also work better on porous or rough surfaces, and do best when only held in contact, with as little pressure as possible until set. Most epoxies leave a clear glue line that takes dyes poorly.
Gorilla glue adheres to nearly any clean surface, but has a problem with the excess expressing itself out of the joint, requiring mechanical removal. The excess can be scraped, cut or sanded, whichever is most suitable to the situation. It is unbelievably strong, again requiring only moderate pressure to adhere properly. It leaves a light brown glue line.
Three Hawks
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Durco Epoxy ... 5 minute is ok but the longer set epoxies are much stronger. Like anything the aplication has got to be clean.
A "putty" type two part epoxy I have put thru some extreme conditons at home and at work , is "PC-7" PASTE it is very strong once set up ... even used it on an application where it stayed at 225 degrees with pressure behind it for months and months ... tuff stuff.
It can also be sanded down once set.
Not a real sticky glue
Gorilla glue is really junk ... don't do what they say it doooo.
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Gorilla glue is really junk ... don't do what they say it doooo.
Except for wood to wood, strongest glue Ive used on woods, the wood around the joint will plinter before the glue lets loose!
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problem with gorilla glue is not the glue ,most time it is the user you have to dampen the parts to be glued and use only a small amount and spread it thin then apply clamps it will provide a secure bond. but i like the old two part epoxy ,myself .wally world sells some called plastic welder that is very good.
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plastic welder is all i have tried, and it really works. tried gorilla glue once and didnt like it much.
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and if you add food color you and make the plastic welder any color you want .
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What part of the gorilla do they get the glue from ?
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What part of the gorilla do they get the glue from ?
Duh!! The sticky part
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Do it hurt the monkey ?
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What part of the gorilla do they get the glue from ?
Not the nose. Gorilla snot is a different kind of glue: weatherstrip adhesive.
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I've used glues, cements, and adhesives professionally man and boy for over forty five years. Boatbuilder, you see. My experience is glueline failure is 99% operator error. Usually from not reading and using the manufacturer's instructions.
[size=150]READ AND FOLLOW THE BLOODY INSTRUCTIONS ! ! ![/size] It'll give ya sump'n to do on the way out to the garbage can.
Most of the time the manufacturer actually has some hint of an idea as to what is required.
I know, I know, that's just crazy talk, sorry.
Three Hawks
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When all else fails READ THE MANUAL!
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:lt th
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glue has directions ? Now all the fun is over.
Next ya gonna tell me there are warning labels...
lol
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glue has directions ? Now all the fun is over.
Next ya gonna tell me there are warning labels...
lol
Try not to get too much in yer nose. Nothin' quite so pathetic as a groundhog with his paw permanently glued up his nose.
Three Hawks.
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thatsa stickie booger'
What really bothers me is when you do read the instructions before hand and whatever the product is ... it performs poorly or fails totally.
Gorilla glue does seem to work well on wood to wood aplications but falls short on others.
Also the expansion quality is sometimes a problem when you are trying to do neat work.
Epoxies have always given me the best results when a glue is needed but you sure can't beat a weld or solder or even a rivet for keepin it all together.
lol
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Devcon slow set. Alcohol has no effect on it that I've ever seen. Even acetone has no immediate effect on it, once cured. It is optically clear, and absorbs what ever spectrum of color it is on. If you have a glue line, you didn't fit things close enough.
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Devcon slow set. Alcohol has no effect on it that I've ever seen. Even acetone has no immediate effect on it, once cured. It is optically clear, and absorbs what ever spectrum of color it is on. If you have a glue line, you didn't fit things close enough.
Devcon has been my own personal favorite for years.
Uncle Russ...
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As a woodworking professional. I would not waste my money on any of the Polyurethane glues.
From the expanding action they develop a very weak bond that is very easily broken.All failures that I have seen with Gorilla glue and there like, have broken thru the glue line with no wood failure.
For metal to wood epoxy is the best. Followed by urea formyldihide .
Woodman
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I like Devcon 20 minute clear epoxy. Never had any issues with it , dries clear. As long as your fit/finish is good you will not notice it. On hidden tang knives I like JB Weld.
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Liquid hide glue, tweeked with a few drops of vinegar to accellerate dry time is pretty handy to have around....the same mixed with brick dust makes a good "cutlers" filler as well.
Its not a super strong thing, but it works well enough for
traditional applications.
T.Albert