Shooting Traditional Firearms and Weapons > General Interest
Little help for Casters, especially those just getting started.
RobD:
My pleasure, sir.
You may notice a few things in the above video that may seem unusual, so if you will allow, I'll talk some more of my casting process ...
I double wrap a #64 rubber band around the mould handle ends. This ensures that the mould halves are aligned and evenly compressed for all castings.
I put the ladle's snout into the mould sprue hole and let the weight of the lead force itself into the mould cavities. Even after both cavities are filled, I dump the remaining ladle lead over the sprue holes to keep the heat high at those areas to help release any trapped air.
When balls are stuck in the mould I rap the handle hinge to release and Never hit the mould itself.
I leave the last ball cast in the mould. As the still image at the end of the video shows, after the mould has fully cured it's wrapped well in Press'n'Seal food wrap. I do this to keep air out and off the mould. In doing so, there is no need to oil the mould for storage, or for cleaning off the oil to start another casting session. Just unwrap the mould, stick it on the pot rim along with the ladle, turn on the furnace, and let them both get hot as the lead melts.
Before casting, I put a pea sized piece of candle wax or beeswax or paraffin wax or a bit of sawdust into the lead - it will smoke a whole big bunch and may even produce a flame (which is why I use a big exhaust fan over the furnace, that pipes out through the shop window). I stir that with a tablespoon and scoop out the dross into a cut off top soda can, so all that's left in the pot is a mirror silver lake of molten lead.
I use a thermometer to monitor the pure lead heat and I typically keep it around 700-750F (for alloy bullets it'll be closer to 800F). I let a cast ball tell me if the temperature is good - it will be shiny and clean, with no lines, no frosting, no occlusions.
I start with the pot full and always add new lead after (not during!) the casting session, and I'll frequently stir the lead with that tablespoon and pull out the dross.
Hope some of this helps.
r.
Bearhntr:
Rob,
When finished casting, do you leave the residual lead in the pot?
Thanks,
Rodd
RobD:
--- Quote from: Bearhntr on January 23, 2021, 08:06:12 PM ---Rob,
When finished casting, do you leave the residual lead in the pot?
Thanks,
Rodd
--- End quote ---
Yes. And as mentioned, I make sure it's filled.
Uncle Russ:
I'm not Rob, but as a long time caster I would like to join in.
Back in the late 50's, early 60's, I used a Bottom Pour (which were very expensive back then) and I "used" to empty the pot after ever casting, I only empty the pot now when the melt gets low, so I can clean it.
As Rob stated, I've never met a bottom pour pot yet that didn't leak, From a little bit to a hard to manage leak!
Personally, I seldom empty the pot anymore unless I'm going to change hardness levels of my melt, which I seldom do anymore since I shoot mostly pure lead in both my C&B Revolvers and my Muzzleloaders.
My advice to every new caster is; First off, be safe!
Water is NOT your friend. Keep a safe distance from water, along with wet or damp items, even a drop of sweat from your brow, can cause a bit of excitement if it hits the molten lead.
Wear safe clothing, including gloves and eye protection.
And likely as important as anything, is reading. Read everything you can on casting, and never be afraid to ask questions, lots of questions!
Remember, the only dumb question ever, is the one that is not asked!
Respectfully, Russ...
Butler Ford 40:
A suggestion, if you will, if you luck into some recovered plumbing, roof flashing or any other forms of lead, do NOT try to clean it in your casting pot! Darn near impossible to flux enough to get all the impurities out of the lead and most of the leftover dirt will remain in your pot stuck to the sides and bottom and will get back into your clean lead when you refill the pot to start casting.
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