Rescued CVA

[jimknife]

I have just rescued a CVA Hawkin,  I know that it is going to need a new barrel.  The hammer doesn't lock into the half or full cock position.  Is there  a diagram of a cva lock.  I have found one for an l&R but need someone to give assistance.  Any help is appreciated.

[Hank in WV]

Sounds like you have the nose of the sear broken off. Sorry, I'm not puter savvy enough to come up with any diagrams. Doe it act the same way with the lock out of the stock?

[Captchee]

the lock is  pretty close to the same in layout . some where on here we have  the diagrams for both caplock and flintlock  with all the names of the parts
 of course that depends on which CVA lock you have . but most all are the same  basic design . The L&R has a bridled tumbler where  only  a few of the heavier CVA's have a bridle .
 could be you have a broken sear spring  or its missing all together . that would be my guess .
 through the years i have seen only a few with a broken sear . but  it can and does happen .
 the sear spring will be just above the sear . it pushes down on the sear so it will snap into the half and full cock knotches .

 the other thing that  on some  CVA and traditions locks , the tumbler has a small feathering screw . this goes through the tunbler and adjusts the amount  the sear can drop into the knotches . if its been screwed to far in , it will not alow the sear to  catch on the 1/2 or full cock .

 barrels normally aren’t to much of a problem . if you watch the auction sights , you will come up with one .

 currently im in the process of tooling up for  making drop in stocks for  some production guns . going to start out with CVA
 these will be walnut , maple or cherry .
  if everything works out , i will also have a stock  that is more correct  for the Kentucky , in its lines  and of 1 piece not two
 im also considering providing the option for better hardware , like butt plates side plates TG , thimbles and such for these stocks

[Captchee]

well i cant seem to find the diagrams on here , I know we have them . ill keep looking

[nessy357]

IIRC there is a 1mm screw, that adjusts the sear engagement, located above and under  the tumbler. If that is missing , the sear won't engage. Hope that helps.

Cheers Bob.

[deadfallpaul]

Captchee I might be interested in the drop in for the CVA Kentucky.
 I picked one up at a price so low I couldn't pass it up but don't like the two part stock or the fit of the wood to the hardware, especially the nose cap.
 Was going to get ambitious and rework the stock myself but spare time is at a premium.
 A drop in, in walnut, would be great!
Please keep me posted.

[Captchee]

will do paul
check your PM  
Jim i couldn’t find those diagrams so here is a new one for you .
 the red arrow is pointing to where the little screw that Nessy and i were speaking of  is located .
also another thing you may find that is causing the lock issue , is the set trigger .
 take the lock out and see if it will  set to the half cock and full cock notches , if it does then the set triggers "if you have them " are adjusted to be to light and  is holding the  sear away from the tumbler
 but im still betting you have a broken sear spring . you will see this located on the diagram .
 This little leaf spring hold the sear  against the tumbler  and pushes it into the notches . Without it  the sear has no way to engage .
, you also can see  on the diagram what all the parts look like . So if you do have a broken  nose on your sear  you can see  it

[jimknife]

Thanks,  I have a nose on the sear that has been bent back away from the tumbler.  I borrowed one from a friends cva it worked out of the gun but when placed in the gun it would not half-cock safely. I have no idea how long this has been like this.  May have to replace the sear spring, Anything else I may have to replace?

[Captchee]

well if the face of the sear is brock , you better look at the tumbler  half cock notch .
 it could very well be broke as well .
 the other thing to remeber is that the sear must be able to move freely . without the  sear spring it should easly flop around .
 if thats not the case , the broke sear may have  placed a burr on the lock plate .
 if so this could be keeping it from engaging .
also if you tumbler has a fly , which it must if you have double set triggers . then this fly could be stuck and not moving to let the sear engage the 1/2 cock .
 the fly will be a little tab that hangs down over the half cock notch . it must also move  out of the way when you  pull the hammer back .
 if it does not  OR is not there  and you have a double set trigger , then this could be why  the sear is damaged .
 if you wish , give me a call . its easier to go over things  to look for  then it is to write them down .
Ill be out in my shop today .
 ill send you a PM with my # so you can call if you wish and we can go over it together