Your TMA Officers and Board of Directors
Support the TMA! ~ Traditional Muzzleloaders ~ The TMA is here for YOU!
*** JOIN in on the TMA 2024 POSTAL MATCH *** it's FREE for ALL !

For TMA related products, please check out the new TMA Store !

The Flintlock Paper

*** Folk Firearms Collective Videos ***



Author Topic: Ram Rods....  (Read 1304 times)

Online Uncle Russ

  • TMA Contributing Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 7338
  • TMA Founder. Walk softly & carry a big Smoothbore!
  • TMA Member: Founder / Charter Member #004
  • Location: Columbia Basin, Washington State
Ram Rods....
« on: November 16, 2008, 01:24:55 PM »
I just got a new 5/16 Hickory Ramrod for my new (new to me) .45 Longrifle.
Of course the Ramrod is "in the raw and unfinished"....I wanted to somehow finish this one a bit differently, and I'm looking for suggestions.

Over the years I tried a lot of "stuff", and I have ended up  dissappointed on more than one occasion.
I have tried;
- Soaking in kerosene (Coal Oil)...from weeks to months, even several months, and I have never been pleased with that, seems the fittings have always had problems, even when pinned in place.
- Tung oil, and boiled linseed oil....I was never particularly impressed with either of these.
- Walnut, Cherry, and Oak stain, nothing else, just plain stain.
- Spar Varnish...this was a terrible mistake!

Keep in mind that a 42"... 5/16" Rod, is a terribly flimsy little piece of wood to begin with, and any kind of "uneven" stroke in seating a tight ball can snap it like a toothpick.

So...what are you guys doing for these itty bitty rods?
I have read somewhere that there is a new coating that will actually "toughen" the wood, but I can't find where I read that, although I somehow think it was right here on this forum.


What's a mother to do?  :shock:

BTW; I have two of those unbreakable, bullet proof, no nonsense, rods for range rods, but neither of them will fit the entry pipe or thimbles for hunting.
 
Uncle Russ..
It's the many things we don't do that totally sets us apart.
TMA Co-Founder / Charter Member# 4

Online Bigsmoke

  • TMA Contributing Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 4141
  • TMA: Charter Member #150
(No subject)
« Reply #1 on: November 16, 2008, 02:50:28 PM »
A piece of 5/16" brass rod is pretty unbreakable.
Then there is the wood rod with the steel core in it.
Then there is the option of just leaving the rod in place and always use a range rod (my personal choice).
Live simply. Love generously. Care deeply. Speak kindly. Leave the rest Up to God.

BigSmoke - John Shorb
TMA Charter Member #150  
NRA - Life
Coeur d'Alene Muzzleloaders - Life

Offline Ohio Joe

  • TMA BoD
  • ****
  • Posts: 7660
  • TMA Founder / Charter Member# 8
  • TMA Member: Founder
  • Location: Nebraska
(No subject)
« Reply #2 on: November 16, 2008, 03:06:44 PM »
Russ,

I haven't done any for some time (ramrods) simply because I haven't had to.  What I do is this;

I mix 1 part lamp oil, with 1 part Polyurethane.  Stir very well, put ramrod(s) in a metal tube capped at one end, pour tube (pipe) full of above mixture and let set over two weeks, adding the mixture as it absorbs into the wood.  Put your thumb over the open end, or a cap at least once a day and rotate the pipe/tube so the mixture moves around.

After the two weeks have passed, remove ramrod(s), let stand in another tube (both ends open) for a couple days of drying out/semi harding time, then sand and add the RR ends.

My ramrods smell like lamp oil for sometime afterwards but they hold up to the worst treatments I give them.

Good luck! :shake
Chadron Fur Trade Days Rendezvous / "Ol' Candle Snuffer"
"Museum of the Fur Trade" Chadron, Nebraska

Offline jbullard1

  • TMA Forum Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 955
(No subject)
« Reply #3 on: November 16, 2008, 03:09:46 PM »
If you want them darker you can scorch them with a propane torch
then soak or finish them
Mississippi TMA State Representative
Member #318  Valid until Jan 15, 2011
Hatchie Run Longrifles Member

Offline mario

  • TMA Forum Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 975
(No subject)
« Reply #4 on: November 16, 2008, 03:36:12 PM »
I had a 5/16" rod for my .36 rifle. Soaked in BLO or coal oil, never had a break.

Actually sold the rifle 2 years ago, but still have the spare rod...


Mario

Offline Voyageur

  • TMA Forum Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 602
(No subject)
« Reply #5 on: November 16, 2008, 03:39:45 PM »
I used to use plain kerosene, but also found that I needed a bis more oil and added some linseed and some polyurethane as well. It took about two weeks or more to soak the finished rod, then allowed to "dry" slowly. The finished rods have lasted quite well for many years. With the .36 & .32 rods, I frankly don't trust the wood and have seen the results of a rod split and piercing the palm of a shooter. Frankly I use the rods that came with my Traditions rifles, and have supplemented them with jags and careful use. In addition I got some brass rod that I got in 48" lengths and made "range rods" to sub for the lighter aluminum. Wood is nicer and more correct but the metal is somewhat safer.  8)
Artillerymen Do It With A Bang
Artillery the King of Battle
St. Barbara-Pray for us !

NRA Endowment Life

Charter Member #104-10/22/15
"JOIN THE TMA TODAY"

Online Uncle Russ

  • TMA Contributing Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 7338
  • TMA Founder. Walk softly & carry a big Smoothbore!
  • TMA Member: Founder / Charter Member #004
  • Location: Columbia Basin, Washington State
(No subject)
« Reply #6 on: November 16, 2008, 03:40:48 PM »
Quote
Then there is the wood rod with the steel core in it.

Now that sounds like something I would definately be interested in.
As far as carrying an "extra" rod for hunting, I just can't see me doing that....I don't know how one would manage an extra rod.

Where do you think I can find such a rod with a steel core?

Joe, I have never mixed the two, but I have used each of those independently on different rods.
In fact, I have a piece of PVC pipe, with two screw-on end caps, that I have used in the past just for soaking...and I just now remembered that it is stored inside that large piece of pvc that you shipped me the longbow in.

Jerry, I have seen some pretty nice stuff done with a torch, then stained, and waxed over....it can add a nice effect if done properly.

Thanks for the suggestions! :rt th

Uncle Russ...
It's the many things we don't do that totally sets us apart.
TMA Co-Founder / Charter Member# 4

Offline mario

  • TMA Forum Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 975
(No subject)
« Reply #7 on: November 16, 2008, 03:46:41 PM »
Quote from: "RussB"

Where do you think I can find such a rod with a steel core?

http://www.periodramrod.com/

Mario

Online Hank in WV

  • TMA Contributing Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 1991
  • TMA Member: Charter Member #65
(No subject)
« Reply #8 on: November 16, 2008, 03:53:28 PM »
Russ, I've been usng the same 5/16 rod for 5 or 6 years now. If it is split hickory and you don't try to grab too much rod at once, I think there is little chance of breaking them. The only split rod I ever broke was when I caught it on the door jamb while putting the rifle in the truck. Sawn rods are a whole new ballgame and probably ought to be outlawed.
Hank in WV
TMA Charter Member #65, exp 4/30/2026
"Much of the social history of the western world over the past three decades has involved replacing what worked with what sounded good. . ." Thomas Sowell

Online Uncle Russ

  • TMA Contributing Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 7338
  • TMA Founder. Walk softly & carry a big Smoothbore!
  • TMA Member: Founder / Charter Member #004
  • Location: Columbia Basin, Washington State
(No subject)
« Reply #9 on: November 16, 2008, 04:08:53 PM »
WOW! Thanks, Mario.....the 5/16 looks like $55 + $8 shipping.
A bit spendy fer right now....but ya wanta guess what's going on Grandpa's Christmas list?

In the meantime, I'm putting one of the current rods in a mixture of Coal Oil and Polyurethane, I might even add a touch of Linseed Oil just for grins and giggles....

Hank, what do you call "not grabbing too much rod at once"? When I stand the longrifle on end, I don't reach more than about 18" of rod. Do you think that is about right?

Thanks for all the neat replies! :rt th

Uncle Russ...
It's the many things we don't do that totally sets us apart.
TMA Co-Founder / Charter Member# 4

Offline hawkeye

  • TMA Forum Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 2154
(No subject)
« Reply #10 on: November 16, 2008, 04:17:23 PM »
I have one of those steel cored wood rods for my .62 early Virginia as it had a flimsy 5/16" rod when I got it.  I also have a brass rod that I "blued" dark to help add weight to my 24" canoe gun.
David M. Ely
Charter Member #141 Exp 1/11
=======================
"Third ball, haul..." Etherington's Coy 60th RAR

Offline jbullard1

  • TMA Forum Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 955
(No subject)
« Reply #11 on: November 16, 2008, 04:18:09 PM »
Russ
if I am having any difficulty loading I don't grab more than 6 - 8 inches
Mississippi TMA State Representative
Member #318  Valid until Jan 15, 2011
Hatchie Run Longrifles Member

Online Hank in WV

  • TMA Contributing Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 1991
  • TMA Member: Charter Member #65
(No subject)
« Reply #12 on: November 16, 2008, 09:37:44 PM »
I agree with Jerry. I have a 44" barrel and after short-starting, I'll grab the ramrod 4 or 5 times. I tink 18" is asking for trouble.
Hank in WV
TMA Charter Member #65, exp 4/30/2026
"Much of the social history of the western world over the past three decades has involved replacing what worked with what sounded good. . ." Thomas Sowell

Offline jbullard1

  • TMA Forum Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 955
(No subject)
« Reply #13 on: November 16, 2008, 09:46:47 PM »
Oh and I just finished a brass ramrod for LongShanks after a lot of people winced as I loaded during our last (my first) shoot. I got loaned a range rod for the last woods walk  :lol:
Mississippi TMA State Representative
Member #318  Valid until Jan 15, 2011
Hatchie Run Longrifles Member

Offline Captchee

  • TMA Forum Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 6215
(No subject)
« Reply #14 on: November 17, 2008, 08:53:43 AM »
russ , the steel cores are easy to make if you have ever made you own  RR .
 they are alittle heavy but the work good exspecialy in tapered or hour glass type rods .
 the real nice thing is that you can make a false wood end . leave a section of the core showing that is threaded and tapped . then  theread the wood so it will screw  down on it and hide thet steel end  .
 that weay you can  add diffrent attachments that are attached right to the  core, not the wood .
 guess i may have to do a  artical on making such a rod for the journel this winter

 for wood RR i do as mario states and soak in Coal  oil . after  a couple weeks they come out very limber .
 but you must keep them oiled .
 when you clean your rifle , oil up the rod