Craftsmanship > Hawks and Knives
Antler Handle Question
oomcurt:
Kinda curious...I have a section of antler tang from an elk. It is solid...no cracks or such, but, the interior of the antler....well...it is pithy and can be scraped down with a knife. If that pithy stuff is that "loose" can it be possible in time even with epoxy that that "core" will just pull out? Methinks that a pin of some sort would be best....but even so....could the whole thing loosen up in time?
Any comments would be appreciated...thanks,
Curt
Roaddog:
Curt if you would epoxy and pin it should hold good. The epoxy will soak in and firm up the pithy center. I would use a slow setting epoxy.
Buffler Razz:
Curt,
I have not had any problems setting blades into the pithy center of antler. Some have been pined and some not. I like to use JB Weld when ever possible. If the epoxy will be seen I will use the clear type epoxy, slow setting type, and add antler or bone shavings to it as a colorant.
Razz
Uncle Russ:
--- Quote from: "Roaddog" ---You can heat the tang and burn it in also. It smells bad but it will do the trick.
--- End quote ---
Yep Roaddog! This particular odor is the most permeating, long lasting, disgusting "stink" I know of, especially when the heat is created with a sander or a buffing wheel.
It will literally make a maggot loose his cookies, even weeks after the source has been removed.
I also use pins and JB Weld in lieu of epoxy, where it won't be seen, and I've never had a failure from this stuff.
Uncle Russ...
LRB:
Randall knives with antler are secured only with epoxy. They stopped pinning in the late 50's, or 60's. No real need to pin, but no harm either. To look correct for early knives though, they should be pinned, or go all the way through and be peened over a washer on the but. I would still use epoxy however. Either method. It makes a good moisture seal, and insures that shrinkage will not loosen anything while adding yet more strength.
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