Traditional Muzzleloading Association

Craftsmanship => Gun Building and Repair => Topic started by: burch on May 03, 2009, 01:27:37 PM

Title: Ramrod ? please
Post by: burch on May 03, 2009, 01:27:37 PM

I fitted my ramrod for my Tn. Mountain Rifle .32cal. It works real sweet down the bore. Trouble is it won`t stay put in the thimbles. I`m afraid of it slipping out on a hunt and loosing it or probably catchin` it in the dirt and snapping it putting my eye out and never gettin` to hunt again  :?

Title:
Post by: sse on May 04, 2009, 11:00:50 AM

Its too straight.  If you can put a permanent bow in it, that will usually hold it in.

Title:
Post by: Indiana on May 04, 2009, 10:08:01 PM

Mine is somewhat tapered so that it fits snugly in the hole in the stock.  I may try bowing my next one.

Title:
Post by: SimonG on May 05, 2009, 01:01:09 AM

I have one that does that time to time, I gave it a wrap of masking tape right where it is under the top thimble, didn't take much and she sticks fine now.

Title:
Post by: burch on May 05, 2009, 06:19:30 AM

Quote from: "SimonG"

I have one that does that time to time, I gave it a wrap of masking tape right where it is under the top thimble, didn't take much and she sticks fine now.

is this method period correct  

Title:
Post by: Captchee on May 07, 2009, 11:17:01 AM

Good question .
 There are many different ways to fix this issue . Most production companied  now place a tension spring  under the barrel . This is normally held in place by either the front lock bolt or the from barrel pin .
 This works but it requires having a cut out  to the RR channel  or as in some cases an exposed  length of the RR channel under the barrel .
Myself I don’t like this , but its how they do it .

 Now most certainly one can  make a warp in the RR to help hold it in place . Basically  what’s being don is  the warp creates tension. Thus friction to hold it in place .

 Here is what I do to  fix this issue when folks bring  me a rifle with this problem . It works with all RR , wood , brass , synthetic .
 Take a  a piece of  wood  .  Simple pine works  but hardwood  works better for this .
 Make a small sliver shim . not very long  just about ¼ or 3/8 is long enough .
 Take the entry thimble  off . If you don’t have one then  that’s ok to .
 Now  put the RR in place and fit the shim . You want it snug but not so snug that you cant get the RR out . Yet you want it snug enough that  you have to apply alittle presser to pull the RR .
 Once you have this made  and are satisfied . , glue it in place , just Inside the   entry hole .
 don’t push it so deep that you cant get to it  if sometime down the road , you need to replace it .
  Now replace the entry thimble and your good to go .
 If you don’t have an entry thimble , then  just put it about a ¼ inch back so it cant be seen .
  What this does is  but pressure against the rr . IE making a spot where the RR must go over  in order to slide past . Now you have a spot that creates the same friction as bending the rod . But it doesn’t look like you have a  FISH ON!!!!! Situation when you pull the road , granted that’s an exaggeration LOL
 But you get the point .
 The shim will last a very , very long time . I have one in a couple of my personal rifles , one has been there now for 17 years and is still working well .

Title:
Post by: burch on May 07, 2009, 05:33:20 PM

Quote from: "Captchee"

Good question .
 There are many different ways to fix this issue . Most production companied  now place a tension spring  under the barrel . This is normally held in place by either the front lock bolt or the from barrel pin .
 This works but it requires having a cut out  to the RR channel  or as in some cases an exposed  length of the RR channel under the barrel .
Myself I don’t like this , but its how they do it .

 Now most certainly one can  make a warp in the RR to help hold it in place . Basically  what’s being don is  the warp creates tension. Thus friction to hold it in place .

 Here is what I do to  fix this issue when folks bring  me a rifle with this problem . It works with all RR , wood , brass , synthetic .
 Take a  a piece of  wood  .  Simple pine works  but hardwood  works better for this .
 Make a small sliver shim . not very long  just about ¼ or 3/8 is long enough .
 Take the entry thimble  off . If you don’t have one then  that’s ok to .
 Now  put the RR in place and fit the shim . You want it snug but not so snug that you cant get the RR out . Yet you want it snug enough that  you have to apply alittle presser to pull the RR .
 Once you have this made  and are satisfied . , glue it in place , just Inside the   entry hole .
 don’t push it so deep that you cant get to it  if sometime down the road , you need to replace it .
  Now replace the entry thimble and your good to go .
 If you don’t have an entry thimble , then  just put it about a ¼ inch back so it cant be seen .
  What this does is  but pressure against the rr . IE making a spot where the RR must go over  in order to slide past . Now you have a spot that creates the same friction as bending the rod . But it doesn’t look like you have a  FISH ON!!!!! Situation when you pull the road , granted that’s an exaggeration LOL
 But you get the point .
 The shim will last a very , very long time . I have one in a couple of my personal rifles , one has been there now for 17 years and is still working well .

  Now that`s ingenuity.