Traditional Muzzleloading Association
Craftsmanship => Accoutrements => Topic started by: Lady of the Woods on October 08, 2008, 09:54:34 PM
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Ok, I guess now that I have a flinter I need a cows knee for her. . . any suggestions on material, design, how to make it?? help!
Z
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best is to use the rear leg(or hock)....I've got one from a buffalo, and another from an elk....there are some patterns to make one, but I've always use the real thing...Mitch
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I read somewhere to use an old shamie you use for drying your truck. cut a piece about 8" square, and coat it real good with snow seal. It will be flexible but hold shape if molded around your lock.
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I read somewhere to use an old shamie you use for drying your truck. cut a piece about 8" square, and coat it real good with snow seal. It will be flexible but hold shape if molded around your lock.
That's what I did....sewed 2 thongs on for ties,coated it with dubbin...works fine...& no complicated cutting/sewing..
Steve
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I read somewhere to use an old shamie you use for drying your truck. cut a piece about 8" square, and coat it real good with snow seal. It will be flexible but hold shape if molded around your lock.
coated it with dubbin
What is dubbin? never heard of it, is it a more period correct sealant?
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Snap!...Never heard of snow seal...Don't know if Dubbin is just a British thing...It's for softening/waterproofing Leather & has been around since at least WWI....small tins in most shoe repairers over here.
Steve
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Now that I think of it BEAVERMAN recommended "White's Boot Dressing" to me to waterproff my shooting bag. I bet that would work just fine also.
http://www.whitesboots.com/store/boot_l ... s_oils.php (http://www.whitesboots.com/store/boot_leather_care/greases_oils.php)
look toward the bottom of the page.
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British, don't know. We had Dubin in Canada, so maybe.
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Ok, I guess now that I have a flinter I need a cows knee for her. . . any suggestions on material, design, how to make it?? help!
Z
Place your gun on half-cock with the frizzen closed onto a piece of paper. Draw lines along the stock fore and aft of the lock (~4-5 inches each way) and trace the outline of the lock/cock/frizzen area and along the bottom of the stock. That is your pattern. Enlarge it a bit around the frizzen/cock area and make it longer along the sides (to accomodate going around the gun). Cut out your pattern and trace it onto 2 pieces of leather. Cut the pieces out and a long thin strip for a welt (~1/4 inch wide and longer than the upper part of the pattern (The pattern will look like a long rectangle with a hump for the frizzen/cock area). Sew the welt in between the 2 side pieces, turn right-side out, dampen the leather and fit it to the stock/lock area. Allow to dry and trim off leather where it might need trimming. Add ties (I use 2 at each end at each "corner") and grease it well. I also added a 5th tie to the center of one bottom so that I could tie the cows knee to the trigger guard so it wouldn't be lost when I removed it.
I used a light weight, top- grain leather and made the cows knee so the smooth side would end up outside. I greased it very well with deer tallow inside and out and used gentle heat so the leather absorbed as much as it could hold.
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Z....IMO, and FWIW, I would make sure I was going to need, and use one before doing a lot of anything.
I have owned a couple over the years and they were just more hassle that anything much of real value, and that was when I lived in Shelton, WA the real "back door" to the Rain Forest.
Tucking the lock of my flinter under my arm proved much more practical that trying to cover, and uncover, the lock......besides, when it's pouring down rain you need to freshen the prime about every hour or so anyway...just dump it out, wipe / dry the pan, and re-charge.....IMHO, a "stall" for the frizzen has a lot more value than a Cows Knee.
Still yet, all this ramblin is just one man's thinking. If you feel you need a Cows Knee, then go for it. A lot of folks do have 'em and use 'em, so they can't be a real bad thing.
Uncle Russ...
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Z............ a "stall" for the frizzen has a lot more value than a Cows Knee.
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What's that? umm, a 'stall', not a frizzen?
Sincerely,
Tommy
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Z............ a "stall" for the frizzen has a lot more value than a Cows Knee.
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What's that? umm, a 'stall', not a frizzen?
Sincerely,
Tommy
A little leather cover for the frizzen only.....
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Does it go between the pan and the frizzen?
Tommy
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no, think of it as a glove that goes over the frizzen.
The purpose is to prevent the firearm from accidentally going off - hence where the phrase "going off half cocked" came from.
If the flint cannot come into contact with the frizzen, then it cannot make any sparks.
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OK, I had that in my mind's eye as what a cow's knee is, but the cow's knee is considerably more involved and covers most all the action extending some over the stock, right ?
Tommy
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10-4, good buddy
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10-4, good buddy
even if only Thursday!
Tommy
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I've cut the toe off an old moccasin and used the heel and sides to cover the lock area. Tallow and beeswax or Snoseal to waterproof: add a thong, and there you are. I have used a moccasisn pattern sans toe area to do the same thing.
In my understanding, a "Cow's Knee" is a weather cover to keep rain and snow off the lock ; the frizzen stall is a safety feature, as described.
Sansquartier
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Brilliant discussion gentlemen! Thank you to Black Hand for the pattern advice and the suggestions from all.
Received today from a friend a perfectly fit cows knee for the Lady of the Woods. pictures to follow tomorrow...
A frizzen stall is already in the works and I agree it is probably more important overall, but I'm getting excited about hunting season and thus the need (possibly) for the cows knee. The one I received is actually a barktanned buck knee and is quite fabulous.
Z
ps, glad that the discussion sparked new knowledge on a couple of items!
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I just use a scrap opf linen that I saturated with patch lube. My patch lube is beeswax tallow and olive oil. I once sat out an ice storm like that. My gun had 1/4 inch of ice on it except for the rag was.
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I'm a visual kind of guy, so...here is a picture of a frizzen stall in use
(http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd32/bufflerrazz/Pedersoli/PA070003.jpg)
Razz
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[albumimg:y1pzo5ed]3372[/albumimg:y1pzo5ed]
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Z[/b
Tucking the lock of my flinter under my arm proved much more practical that trying to cover, and uncover, the lock......besides, when it's pouring down rain you need to freshen the prime about every hour or so anyway...just dump it out, wipe / dry the pan, and re-charge.
Uncle Russ...
I've used a flinter to hunt quite a bit in Western Wa. (You know, where rain was invented.) I have found a cow's knee to be one more piece of foo-fa-raw that simply gets lost, or worse in the way, not unlike short starters.
Seems like us humans like to add more and more "stuff" when we do things. The older I get the more I like the KISS principle. the fewer things I have with me when I'm hunting, the fewer things I have to get tangled up in or lose.
Your mileage, of course, may vary.
"Dubbin" is a greasy goop used to soften and preserve leather. The word derives from "dubbing" which itself derives from "daubing".
Three Hawks
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Thanks David23cal That Padrn I can fallo.
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I use two devices to protect my lock in inclement weather - both are easy and have different applications. Sometimes I use them together.
(1) cow's knee - I much prefer a soft cover that just lays on the lock rather than a hard, molded thing. Take a thin, supple piece of hide or leather, cut in 6-8 inch circle or oval (esp. if you have a long lock). Next cut a triangle out of it with the point in the center of the circle or oval and the wedge only about 10 degrees or about 1 inch of the perimeter. sew the two edges together along the triangle cut and you have what amounts to a cone that should sit perched on top of the cock over the frizzen/pan , etc. I have a short length of rawhide string so I can tie mine to my trigger guard. The great thing about this is you can just flick it off your lock when your ready to fire and it's light and quiet enough to just hang from the guard if you don't need it.
I use this most often in any foul weather - rain or snow. Only downfall is it blows off easily in a strong gust and won't stay on well at all if moving through vegetation.
(2) the shank of a wool (NOT COTTON) sock. Just cut to length to cover entire lock area from the head of the frizzen spring back to tail of the lock area. When ready to fire, just pull it back to the wrist and it should be out of the way. I used to use this by itself, but have gotten away from that because it will snag on my rather tall cock screw and because heavy rain or wet snow will pass right through the weave. An exception is in cold cold weather with light, fluffy snow. In very wet weather, I will use both, the cow's knee on the bottom and the sock shank pulled over it.
I should mention that perhaps the best thing you can do if you're going to be hunting in bad weather is change your prime regularly. I change every 10-20 minutes in damp weather and every 5-10 minutes if precipitating rain or wet snow. Also consider using 3F or even 2F instead of 4F (they absorb less moisture because of granule size).
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One thing I forgot to mention is that I always use 3f for prime when hunting. Every time I tried 4f I would get a misfire or at best a hangfire. I've never had a problem with 3f in the pan. Targets I use 4f. I've also thought about sewing roundballs in the corners of the linen rag to help hold it on in a wind. Haven't tried it yet.
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Im with russ on this one . I made a cows Knee once . only once and the thing is most likly still high up on the mountian where i tossed it in anger during an elk hunt , my first year out with a flintlock .
i do just what uncle russ said . carring the lock under my arm in really bad weather or i carry the rifle upside down.
if its really raining or snowing out " snow is much easier to deal with then rain . what i do is use soft bee's wax to budder the edges of the pan , frizzen and where the frizzen closes to the barrel .
now others oppenions may very but i find them a total bother , a henderance and just something else to get in the way .
a frizzen stall is a good idea though and if you just tie it off so you can quickly slip it off and not worry about dropping it , it works well exspecialy when going through heavy brush where you can possably trip the lock
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If it is really miserable weather, I break out the canvas poncho - then keep the lock area under the canvas with me. That way we both stay dry.
r/
MM
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OK, I had that in my mind's eye as what a cow's knee is, but the cow's knee is considerably more involved and covers most all the action extending some over the stock, right ?
Tommy
Yes.
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a buddy of mine has a squarish leather flap that he punched holes through and mounts to his rifle via the sidelock screws. It drapes up and over the lock. He flips it off to the side when it's time to shoot. He says he could stiffen it into a dome so he could shoot through it if need be.