Craftsmanship > Gun Building and Repair
Coloring or tinting epoxy
BEAVERMAN:
OK Guys, heres the deal, I have a TC that needs some stock repair and has some fibers at the break that are missing, very small fill, I wont use any standard wood filler cuz the stuff is crap and wont stain worth doodly! Ive been trying to find some brown epoxy, have seen it in the past but cant find it now(go figure), I dont want to spend the 20 some bux to buy arcaglass for about aneraser size dob of epoxy, anybody have a recipe or method of coloring clear epoxy for a fix?
FG1:
Might try making some sanding dust with coarse paper after staing it close or a little darker and mixing in with epoxy to make your own filler . I' ve had luck with walnut .
Captchee:
well jim , you have a couple choices .
one FG brought up but another you should already know about but may just never thought of . thats pigments for floor epoxies .
you can get them through T&A or Associated .
i know the T&A down in Boise used to have it right next to the colored grout samples . It comes in buckets , tubs and even small tubes like oil paints .
Now the other trick , I learned from an old gunsmith friend of mine many years back is charcoal .
Charcoal makes a wonderful color match filler for mixing with epoxies .
The way he showed me to do this was to go down to the arts and craft store and get artist charcoals . Not the ones in a pencil , even though I would think they would work to . But the ones he preferred were the charcoal sticks . They kind of look like pieces of chalk .
Find the shade of color that matches the closest to you final stain color . Then take that and rub it back and forth on sand paper tell you have a dust .
Mix the dust with your epoxy tell its about the consistency of warm peanut butter . It must be alittle runny or the epoxy will not grab the walls of the fill .
Pack just enough to fill the hole so its just a tad higher then what you want
.
Now the final trick takes a little technique and timing to get down .
Taking a razor blade “ I use a square edged Roberts carpet blade one of the trimmer blades as you know well there isn’t anything sharper then a fresh carpet knife blade “.
Anyway watch the epoxy dry by testing your mix location . When it reaches the point of being like fresh chewing gum , take you blade and holding it at 90 deg slowly drag it across the fill being carful not to scratch the surrounding finish . Go lightly so it takes off the high spots and leaves the fill level .
Now before the epoxy completely dries . Take a soft cloth with a little denatured alcohol on it and lightly brush the area . What this will do is clean off any of the residue that’s out around the crack ..
Once that’s done , set things aside and let it dry completely , the buff to a nice finish
BEAVERMAN:
Hey, thanks for the tip guys, this repair is on a stock that has been stripped, its raw TC walnut at the moment, I found some tint pigments for epoxy and stains and finishes this morning at woodcrafts site, fairly cheap, about 6 bux for a small bottle, but I do like the charcoal idea, would be alot cheaper and I have an artist supply here in town, wont have to drive the 30 mile round trip to get to woodcraft, gonna give a couple ideas from here and over the the alr forum a try and see what works best, will report back on my findings, Beav
Captchee:
just remeber jim , the epoxy will not stain with wood stains .
now you can patena it but its not easy as the epoxy will take a diffrent color then the wood .
IMO wood fillers dont work eather . i have yet to find one that stained the same as wood and infact most IMO flat suck when it comes to stain
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