Traditional Muzzleloading Association
Traditional Firearms => Flintlock Long Guns => Topic started by: KDubs on August 04, 2023, 07:24:43 PM
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4 coats of tru oil, Jax black on the steel, brass polished and left to mellow yellow.
Now to tackle that ramrod.
Kevin
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Nice, looks like that Jax black worked out OK, still waiting for the 4 word email
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Looks blacker than it really is, overall I'm quite happy.
Looking to shoot it here at home tomorrow.
Going to try a 50/50 mix dawn/water as my patch lube.
Kevin
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Ya done good! :hairy
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Great job, Kevin. If it shoots half as good as it looks, you've got a real winner. :hairy
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She looks like a shooter! :hairy
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A blonde beauty! :applaud
But will she turn into a redhead beauty!?!?!?! ::)
Only her gunsmith will know first hand!!! :bl th up :bl th up
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You've done well, Kevin - me likey ! :toast
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Looks blacker than it really is, overall I'm quite happy.
Looking to shoot it here at home tomorrow.
Going to try a 50/50 mix dawn/water as my patch lube.
Kevin
I tried that Dawn/H2O mix for black powder fouling control on my Sharps this past Wednesday - one moist patch down the tube, followed by two dry patches. Fired another PPB round and the extracted cartridge was slick with Dawn, not good! That ended that, went back to moose milk. Might be a different story as a patch lube! I'll give it a try this week in the Woodsrunner but will run down some kinda "buffer" wad on the powder first, then the Dawn/H2O patched ball, so that the Dawn/H2O won't affect the powder charge.
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I watch a guy on youtube, everything blackpowder. he recently tested the dawn/water deal and it got me started down the rabbit hole again.
Id really , really, like to settle on something easy to handle for match shoots.
Gato feo for hunting no issues but just didnt work for me in matches. maybe i had that on my ticking to thick. my suspicions at least.
thanks for the likes on the kibler. very easy and enjoyable, more to come.
I think I will look into building a flinter pitstola in the future. sounds like fun.
kevin
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Kevin, Over the last almost 60 years of shooting black powder, I have found that all these silly a$$ formulas for patch lube are BS. If you want something that works consistently and is readily available, saliva is the ticket. Plus it's free. End of discussion.
On the other hand, if you want something commercial, give Ol' Thunder Patch Lube and Bore Solvent a go. Available from Smoke and Thunder (Google them). Darn good stuff.
John (Bigsmoke)
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I agree with John... For target shooting I've found nothing works better than good ol' spit, and IMHO - cleanup is easy...
Naturally for hunting you'll want something that won't (work on creating a rust ring where the patched ball rides in the bore). There's a lot of options for that. Lambs Tallow being a good choice, as well as what John mentioned above. :shake
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I spit on all kinds of stuff, great lube :luff:
But what about handling lead balls and then handling a patch that goes in your mouth.
Any concerns there , I'd probably be long dead before lead poisoning showed up.
Kevin
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I spit on all kinds of stuff, great lube :luff:
But what about handling lead balls and then handling a patch that goes in your mouth.
Any concerns there , I'd probably be long dead before lead poisoning showed up.
Kevin
During a match, can you keep an open-top small TupperWare (plastic) container on the benchtop, filled with water, as a dipping source ?
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I spit on all kinds of stuff, great lube :luff:
But what about handling lead balls and then handling a patch that goes in your mouth.
Any concerns there , I'd probably be long dead before lead poisoning showed up.
Kevin
Well, I don't know. Personally, I am not concerned about that at all. I think the amount of lead that a person would ingest during a typical shooting match would be infinitesimal, at the most. If that is a matter of concern, using a fabric strip would lessen the contact. I usually just put (say it's a 5 shot target) 5 precut patches into my mouth and when I am out of patches, I'm done shooting that target. So far, I haven't seen any adverse symptoms from handling lead balls and using spit patches.
John (Bigsmoke)
PS That is one fine looking rifle gun you got there.
J
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Kevin, what size rocks does it take? I want to make sure I have enough on hand if I don't already.
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the one that came on my lock mic'd out at just over .71 so i'm calling that 3/4. i have some 7/8 black english flints, they will work but are alittle big.
didnt shoot today , extreme fire danger, several wild fires burning around the area , probably not an issue but i didnt want to contribute to the already over worked firefighters.
however, tomorrow i will try the 13 yard rule as i begin my sighting in and load development, weather permitting. i have a graveled area perfect for that.
kevin
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As you can the first shots with the ol gal are not that impressive.
I fired 6 shots at 13 yds to get my windage inline then I moved out to my 50 yd range for this round of shots.
The 60-70 yd were atleast together and the patches recognizable.
The 80-90 were strung out and the , well I can't even call em patches anymore.
Tomorrow I think I will hit jo Ann's for some heavier cotton that pillow ticking.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Kevin
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The 80-90 were strung out and the , well I can't even call em patches anymore.
Tomorrow I think I will hit jo Ann's for some heavier cotton that pillow ticking.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Kevin
Got any old denim jeans that you were gonna toss ? :bigsmile:
,
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I use JoAnns red stripe pillow ticking, measures about .012" with a *tightly* locked down micrometer.
My lube of choice is still my home brew Gato Feo #1. :bl th up
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This is red ticking .015 ish.
I can count the bulbs in my shop light. Not a tight weave.
I'll figure it out with more shootin'
Kevin
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Kevin,
Are you shooting from a rest or offhand?
For load development, I would sure recommend a rest. And I like to do that at 25 yards, not 50. Once you get it tightened up at 25, then go out to 50 and see how it holds, says the person who hates to work on development.
Keep at it, and get some better patching, that you can't see through.
By the bye, how deep is the rifling?
John
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Thanks John,
Picked up some duck canvas at .020. Barely any light passes thru.
I'll move to 25 yds. I didn't swab at all between any shots. Maybe that's an issue .
Any how, when I get back to testing I'll keep a log and slow down . I was just too excited to shoot "ginger"
From my best measurements I mic'd the lands at .538 and the grooves at .555
Shooting a .530 ball but I have .535 if that might make a difference.
Kevin
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Thanks John,
Picked up some duck canvas at .020. Barely any light passes thru.
I'll move to 25 yds. I didn't swab at all between any shots. Maybe that's an issue .
Any how, when I get back to testing I'll keep a log and slow down . I was just too excited to shoot "ginger"
From my best measurements I mic'd the lands at .538 and the grooves at .555
Shooting a .530 ball but I have .535 if that might make a difference.
Kevin
Yep, load development can take some time, but mostly a LOT of thought. As always, make ONE CHANGE AT A TIME, and test each change thoroughly. I always start at 25 yards, but sometimes can find the POI will shift at longer distances, sometimes double shifts, too.
I just installed a rear peep on my .54 Woodsrunner and will trial it tomorrow.
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I'd like to hear how that works out for you.
It will be a week before I get to shoot again , that should be long enough to pull my head out ...
Kevin
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Thanks John,
Picked up some duck canvas at .020. Barely any light passes thru.
I'll move to 25 yds. I didn't swab at all between any shots. Maybe that's an issue .
Any how, when I get back to testing I'll keep a log and slow down . I was just too excited to shoot "ginger"
From my best measurements I mic'd the lands at .538 and the grooves at .555
Shooting a .530 ball but I have .535 if that might make a difference.
Kevin
I'd be interested in seeing how it shoots with the .020 duck. Then for grins go back to the original ticking and try the .535's. From your measurements, you have pretty deep rifling, so it might really like that .020 duck.
Darn, we have to wait another week to hear the further saga of Ginger? That's gonna be tough.
John
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I usually just get the blue striped 100% cotton pillow ticking from Walmart, and after washing and drying it - it measures .018 with the Caliper...
Always take a Caliper with you and measure the Pillow Ticking before you buy it. If it falls within .018 to .020 / or even up to .022 before washing and drying it (and make sure it's 100% cotton) - you should be good to go... In fact, your best bet is a "real" Fabric Store over Walmart... Hobby Lobby is a darn good place to get Pillow Ticking over getting it from Walmart... :shake
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I'll wash that duck and if I can I'll try n shoot again today.
I got yellow duck canvas so I can find the spent patch.
Kevin
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This is a good thread that deals with several interesting topics. For many, many years I used spit patch simply because it's so hard to beat if not left in the bore too long. But now after working with various lubes for a good bit I've come to like Hoppes Patch Lube as the best all around lube. However, if the gun is to stay loaded (unfired) TOW mink oil punches that ticket. I've found a few others that are great but with a few things missing that the Hoppes takes care of. I liked spit patch but dried up long ago.
Speaking of patches I've used, and still sometimes do, pillow ticking and mattress ticking (a tad thicker). I've used cotton canvas duck which worked fine but finally settled on a heavy canvas about .023" to .024" compressed. It makes for tight loads and I like that. Such loads keeps barrel fouling consistent at about one shots worth. I've worked the crowns of my rifles and can seat the loads with the underbarrel rod. Recovered patches often appear unfired and so they often get used again. I can no longer hunt so only shoot at the club range. And as time goes on I find I shoot less and less. I also fine the red ticking worthless, about like a cut up T-shirt. The blue and brown ticking do work pretty well. Another good thing about the canvas patches is that you can forget about using any kind wad between powder and patch.
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I just installed a rear peep on my .54 Woodsrunner and will trial it tomorrow.
What peep sight are you using? I am seriously wanting to find one which screws to an octagonal barrel, unless I try one which mounts on the tang.
~Kees~
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rob, you got the coolest stuff.
any details you'd like to share
kevin
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Peep sights have been around since at least the 16th century (and earlier, so I've been told) but rare as hens teeth for the 18th century, so not period/era correct for a 1760s Woodsrunner. I dunno if it'd be deemed legal in many or any matches, probably considered the same as a rear sight on a smoothbore for smoothbore matches - not allowed.
Got the peep sight from member "Tom A Hawk" on the muzzleloading forum, $83/shipped.
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Well pc or not I like it.
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My old ticking patches and the new 8oz duck canvas with the special super secret beaver milk lube.
Here they will sit until I can shoot sometime next week.
Kevin
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A rear peep off the tang and a front blade are arguably world's better than a rear buckhorn or notch. Thing is, the top tip of the blade must be on the target whilst the peep encircles it perfectly, thus setting both the elevation and windage. The blade tip is not as perfect as an aperture, so there's gonna be some fudge room. This is where a vernier rear tang aperture sight and a spirit globe aperture front sight rule to 1000 yards (but both or either are SO period/era incorrect within the 18th century ... until ya get into the 3rd quarter of the 19th century, when the breech plug became a cartridge).
Dang, SO busy, haven't had a moment to get back to work on the cherry Woody. :o
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Peep sights have been around since at least the 16th century (and earlier, so I've been told) but rare as hens teeth for the 18th century, so not period/era correct for a 1760s Woodsrunner. I dunno if it'd be deemed legal in many or any matches, probably considered the same as a rear sight on a smoothbore for smoothbore matches - not allowed.
Got the peep sight from member "Tom A Hawk" on the muzzleloading forum, $83/shipped.
Except for our postal matches I don't see me shooting any competition, so having a peep sight will be great. I have had peeps on my unmentionable rifles since I started shooting them in the mid 1960s. My first BP rifle was a Numrich Arms H&A Heritage underhammer which came with the coolest tang peep sight. Elevation was by screwing the post up or down, windage was adjusted by loosening the aperture disk and sliding it left or right, and it had three different sized apertures on a spring-loaded, indexed plate you rotated up or down to the hole you wanted. Looked like a lollipop sticking up but it was just neat!
Thanks for the info on Tom A Hawk. I think I have his information somewhere; doesn't he also sell flint & steel kits?
~Kees~
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Well pc or not I like it.
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My old ticking patches and the new 8oz duck canvas with the special super secret beaver milk lube.
Here they will sit until I can shoot sometime next week.
Kevin
Super Secret? your more than welcome to share that recipe with anybody, hope it works well for you!