Traditional Muzzleloading Association

Traditional Firearms => Caplock Long Guns => Topic started by: doc623 on January 22, 2010, 01:19:20 PM

Title: CVA
Post by: doc623 on January 22, 2010, 01:19:20 PM
Can a CVA Bobcat be converted to flintlock?
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Post by: BEAVERMAN on January 22, 2010, 01:56:04 PM
if it has a drum it can!
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Post by: doc623 on January 22, 2010, 02:00:46 PM
It has a drum.
Where would I look for a lock and touch hole liner?
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Post by: Fred on January 22, 2010, 02:46:23 PM
You really don't want to be doing that you're just gonna wind up having a lot of fun, and then the next thing you know you'll have to have a custom built and then your wifes gonna make you sleep in a culvert. Good luck on your conversion. Fred.
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Post by: BEAVERMAN on January 22, 2010, 02:52:37 PM
you may want to send Captchee a pm here on the forum, he's the resident CVA expert!
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Post by: Riley/MN on January 22, 2010, 03:07:20 PM
Quote from: "Fred"
You really don't want to be doing that you're just gonna wind up having a lot of fun, and then the next thing you know you'll have to have a custom built and then your wifes gonna make you sleep in a culvert.

Hi Fred,
:lol:

Doc, I'm doing the same thing with a CVA Mtn Rifle. I got an L&R replacement lock. Then I had my friend William Young (founder of Wahkon Bay Outfitters) make me a liner from a bras rod, I just bought a die to match the threads in the barrel. Afterwords William said " I guess I could've just found the right sized bolt and cut it down" to make the liner.
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Post by: Gordon H.Kemp on January 22, 2010, 03:16:19 PM
Doc, the last batch of CVA Bobcats had  a drum that was designed to set off the solid pill charges. The drum goes all the way across to the far side of the chamber and indexes into a shallow notch on the far side. The cap flame is released through a hole facing toward the muzzle. The reason for the extention to the center of the chamber is that in order to ignite the solid charges properly the flame has to be as close to center and at the rear of the pill as possible. If you are successfull  in removing the drum I'd be interested in buying it from you! Check auctionarms they quite often have flintlocks to fit the Bobcat. Also Deercreek Products used to have many parts for the CVA sidelocks.
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Post by: doc623 on January 22, 2010, 03:17:40 PM
Waht is a' L&R replacement lock"?
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Post by: Riley/MN on January 22, 2010, 03:20:41 PM
L & R Is a lock company. Their "RPL" line are drop-in replacements for many popular guns.

I think I bought mine from ToW (Track of the Wolf).

http://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categorie ... tyleID=577 (http://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartList.aspx?catID=14&subID=148&styleID=577)
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Post by: Two Steps on January 22, 2010, 03:24:00 PM
Here ya go Doc...this oughta get ya there
http://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categorie ... tyleID=577 (http://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartList.aspx?catID=14&subID=148&styleID=577)

Good luck, and welcome to the forum.
Al
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Post by: Two Steps on January 22, 2010, 03:29:45 PM
Opps...Sorry Riley, I didn't notice the link on your post  :oops:
Al
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Post by: doc623 on January 22, 2010, 04:10:38 PM
Tks for the info so far.
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Post by: flintlock62 on January 22, 2010, 06:41:49 PM
Quote from: "doc623"
Tks for the info so far.

Watch out for those culverts, they can get cold this time of year. Need a blanket?
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Post by: IronDawg on January 23, 2010, 12:24:48 AM
Quote from: "BEAVERMAN"
you may want to send Captchee a pm here on the forum, he's the resident CVA expert!

YEP! I'll second that. Caps turned a many a bobcats in to georgeous flinters. he's the reason I just refinished a CVA and I'm seriously thinking of switching her to flint.
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Post by: Captchee on January 24, 2010, 12:25:16 PM
sorry guy im out on the road.
cva changed their bolster design no for pellets but becouse of other issues. throughthe yearsthey used 4 diffrent bolsters. 3 if you leave out the snail breachfoun on short production run of kentucks.

with the drum bolster the used 3 diffrent leangh necks.all of wich go into the breech plug. which by the way is of animpoved design.

this design then makes the flash channel on all 3 go strait forwards into the center of the power charge.

what you have to find out, is wich of the 3 bolsters you have, long neck as gorden discribes.
medium nech as lance found on his. or the short neck found on most custom application today.

knowing whzt you have will then tell you how to proceed.

the short anb medium are the simplest to convert. the long neck
can be alittle fun,unless you use the neck of the bolster asa sleve, to put the new liner in.

but to answer yourquestion. yep you can convert it. but i would advise, if your serious,put an RPL lock on it. dont use one of the cva locks. in the long run you will be much happier with the preformance
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Post by: Captchee on January 24, 2010, 12:27:46 PM
Sorry Typing on Laptop
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Post by: doc623 on January 24, 2010, 12:40:55 PM
Thanks for the help.
When you say short,medium, or long boister could you give me some specifics as to length.
I could take mine out and measure it but I still need a more specific reference.
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Post by: Captchee on January 24, 2010, 08:47:34 PM
Quote from: "doc623"
Thanks for the help.
When you say short,medium, or long boister could you give me some specifics as to length.
I could take mine out and measure it but I still need a more specific reference.

 no not really because they change in length depending on caliber
 So here is what I have done . I have  a medium , a small and an original .
 I don’t have any longs because I cut those off , then drill and tap  for a liner .
 So to show you the long , I have done a quick photo shop ..


(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/captchee/cva/CVAplugs.jpg)

CVA  at that time were having some issues

 So now the original .
 These are found on early CVA  rifles .  Early 1970s
 These thread in front of the breech plug ,,OR,,, split the face of the plug .
 
So they went to the small bolster with a bigger neck . To top it off they leaghtened the breech plug and counter drilled it ,,“IE improved  breech “
  This was to give the bolster more to  thread into
This however did not solve the issue
So they went to a  medium . This plug had a faced end that mated to the off side of the chamber in the plug
 This solved  some of the issues  .  But they took it all another step  and tried the long bolster .  This has a longer threaded end that  goes all the way through the plug and mates to the inside of the  off side of the barrel
This however did not work any better then the medium . As such  you mostly will find mediums  on the newer CVA rifles

 So why the need . Well as I said  CVA was having issues with bolsters coming out and loosening up . Im sure we all have seen  bolsters on CVA rifles and pistols that look like someone has taken a pipe wrench to them ,,,, right …….
 The problem wasn’t the bolster design . As you can  see the first two bolster look just like what you would find  on any  semi or custom rifle , that employs a drum type bolster .
Mind you a design that’s been around for as long as percussion guns .

 The problem lies in the way the bolster was set .
See  part of the manufacturing process that Jukar was using  and still uses , is that they use  friction tools  to set the bolsters and  hydraulic applications to set the breech ..

 If you notice  the bolster has no flats on them  like a bolster you would buy from a  supply  house .

well the original does . but i filed those , long ago

So  once the  bolsters were place , they were not as tight as they should be .
 The bolster is then indexed , drilled an tapped for the nipple .
 Then set aside to go on to assembly.

 But because the bolster  wasn’t tight . As soon as the rifle was subject to regular firing , it would work itself lose . People would then  try to tighten it up . But they couldn’t because as soon as they tightened it to wher it should be , the nipple would no longer align.
 If left miss aligned . The hammer would eventually loosen the bolster back up   .
To top that all off , fouling would get into the threads , eventually corroding them   to the point that the bolster would blow out
 Hence the evolution of the longer necks .

 Basically if the need was to ignite  pellets  in the center , which is  a better way to ignite all powder , not just pellets “ hence the true thought behind the improved breech designs “
 There  would be no need for the longer  neck bolster . A short bolster would do the very same thing when threaded into an improved breech
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Post by: doc623 on February 04, 2010, 10:19:05 AM
Thanks for the help.
I'll have to check mine.
Don't know the year of mfg.
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Post by: doc623 on February 09, 2010, 12:23:21 PM
Upon closer inspection it appears to be a 'Silver Eagle'.
Stone Mountain mfg.
The bolster measures 0.540" long and 0.492" in diameter is that is any help.
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Post by: Captchee on February 09, 2010, 02:06:00 PM
what you will need to do is compair the leaght of the neck on the bolster , with the  barrel wall thickness  where the bolster screws in . if its the same , then you just need to replace the  bolster with a liner  and add an appropriate lock .
 if not then all the past wordingf still applies
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Post by: doc623 on February 09, 2010, 02:14:22 PM
Thanks.
What would be the best way to remove it?
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Post by: Captchee on February 09, 2010, 02:25:39 PM
if the bolster doesnt already have them , you need to file ywo flat spots  on each side so as an open end wrench will fit  properly .
" see my photos of breech plugs "
 then simply  turn it counter clockwise .