Traditional Muzzleloading Association
Shooting Traditional Firearms and Weapons => General Interest => Topic started by: 1Poet on November 24, 2014, 12:59:02 AM
-
What do you all use to remove the "powder burns", or residue that seems to stain the pan and surrounding parts of the lock? I've used straight Balistol and Nitro solvent with a stain still in some places in the pan. Your ideas appreciated.
-
I just use moose milk and an old toothbrush.
-
Windex
-
Tap water.
-
I just use moose milk and an old toothbrush.
Please expound on your moose milking techniques. Pictures would be great!
-
I don't milk the moose!
I buy all my moose milk from this nice lady who runs a moose dairy.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v133/Sells/Milkmaid-and-Moose-Cow-hp4080.jpg)
:rotf :rotf :rotf :rotf :rotf :rotf
-
:roll eyes
-
I swirl it in boiling water for about a minuite. Takes care of all carbon buildup. The water evaporates off of it very quickly because it is very hot. Then I just a couple drops of oil on the moving parts, then you're good to go.
-
I use water with a dab of dishwashing detergent to clean all of the metal parts, including the lock. Then I lube the lock where necessary and use some rust preventative like EezOx.
I wonder if it would be work better to put the lock in the ultrasonic cleaner I use for cartridge cases and metal parts of "suppository" firearms. Is there any risk to removing the case hardening, both real and fake?
Ron
-
Stain = Patina
-
T.C. 13 works for me. And Ive used Windex before.
-
Actually, Geezer nailed it. What is called "patina" is dead rust that colors the metal. Over time the spots join up and color the entire area. The patina soaks up oil and protects the surface from further rusting. It's the same idea as bluing or browning. Both are nothing more than a controlled coating of rust (iron oxide). Completely removing the stains means removing the stained metal. You can do it but you are also accelerating the wear on the metal surface.
Storm
-
there's really no viable way around metal stain/patina. clean as best ya can and just accept the results for what they are - a firearm that's been used. ain't no issue or problem for me. in fact, i don't want no slick clean looking flinter - too sterile lookin for my tastes.
-
I don't worry much about the external area. Just clean with water and a little rust protection. The cleaning I referred to above that can be done in an ultrasonic cleaner is on the internals. It is easy enough to clean the easy-to-reach spaces. However, it is hard to even get a Q-tip in the lock workings and I don't want to take them apart every time I clean. The ultrasonic cleaner can get into those nooks and crannies and I can lube and protect afterward.
Ron
-
I lost the case colors on a Double barrel action in the ultrasound cleaner was using simple green. It was gone in 10 minutes. Be carefull
-
i don't spend much time on a full clean. after pulling the lock, i use a nylon brush and a weak moose milk concoction and then really hot water, allow to dry, a bit of ballistol on a nylon brush to get it into the internals, a final wipe down with a paper towel, back on the rifle. goes fast. probably lots more care than most 18th century locks ever saw.
-
I lost the case colors on a Double barrel action in the ultrasound cleaner was using simple green. It was gone in 10 minutes. Be carefull
Now, THAT'S what I wanted to know. I was a little apprehensive about the Ultrasound cleaning because of the "faux" case coloring.
Thank you.
No Ultrasound for these guns.
Ron
-
I tend to favor the hot/boiling water method. I have a question though. After cleaning and the water evaporates, if you put a very light coat of oil on the inner workings, is there anywhere that would be bad for the oil to be?
-
If you coat the inside of the lock with a very thin coat of oil, will it adversely effect any part of the mechanism? Is there anywhere that should not have oil on it?
-
If you coat the inside of the lock with a very thin coat of oil, will it adversely effect any part of the mechanism? Is there anywhere that should not have oil on it?
the pan, frizzen, flint and touch hole need to be - Must Be! - as clean as can be of any oil, powder residue or dirt prior to loading and shooting. i pull and clean out the entire lock after every shooting session then use a super light bit of break free clp on all of the innards with a clean cotton cloth. SO ... i inspect/clean the pan, frizzen, flint and touch hole prior to every load and shooting. this is what i do, other folks may have other thoughts and processes. as long as it works consistently and well, it's all good and ymmv.
-
Right I knew about the frizzen, flint, and touch hole. I should have been more specific. I was primarily concerned about light oil adversely effecting the internal lock mechanisms. Thank you.
-
a light "coat" on the internals is, imho, a good thing.
-
I like to use H2O with a drop or 2 of dawn an an old toothbrush. Been working for over 30 yrs
-
Ultrasonic brass cleaner with 3:1 mix of water and Murphys oil soap. I run it about 3 cycles and it wipes clean. If not run it a couple more cycles.
Ironhand