Traditional Muzzleloading Association
Shooting Traditional Firearms and Weapons => General Interest => Topic started by: Dogbyte on October 15, 2013, 12:31:50 PM
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joined the site because of the rebuild threads, but for now, i thought i'd ask a general question. ended up with a bobcat yesterday for 60 bucks, came with everything but bullets and caps. was able to find some .530 round balls and .10 pretreated patches at a pawn shot that carries .54 cal supplies, the RB's were hornady's, and probably had been sitting on the shelf since i was born.
ive only shot it twice, just to make sure it worked, (oh plus the load that was in it when i bought it). Im new to muzzle loaders pretty much.
i started at 70gr and i hit a paper plate at ~50yds just above center. My second attempt missed high. This was with RS power, and hornady round balls, that were probably older than i am (im 36). I know what will have to be done to find what works best, but i still think it would be good to know what might be a common denominator to folks that already shoot these bobcats. I'd like to stay with RB's, and ive seen some good target results with them out of these .54's on a 1:48 twist. Anyone care to share the loads they have chased down on these bobcats? I know i will have to find my own, but still, doesnt hurt to ask.
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I don't have a bobcat, but 70 grain sounds like a good ballpark to be in. Don't know what RS is (other than my initials), can you speak to us in fg? HA
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well i think RS is equivalent to FFg. but im still learning all these new terms and meanings.
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RS is Pyrodex Rifle/Shotgun, so a 2F equivalent.
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Jmo,but 70 is in the middle of the range. If it were me and from my experience ,I would start at 50 g and work up in 5 g increments. Also if you change powder brands it will change things,just as patch thickness will. If you have too high a charge, it won't all get burned because of the short barrel.
Welcome to the forum,lots of good discussions can be found in the old posts as well.
Good little rifle for the money
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whats the knock on black power, since pyrodex is identified as the alternative? whats the trade outs?
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I don't have a Bobcat, but 70 grs. of powder and .530 roundballs sound like a good combo.
On the other hand, your .010 patches sound rather "thin" to me and .535 roundballs might be more accurate,... or you might try some .018 patches with the .530 roundballs you already have.
"Age" isn't going to have any effect on your roundballs,.... but might have some effect on "substitute powders" like Pyrodex (and unlike real blackpowder).
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I don't have a Bobcat, but 70 grs. of powder and .530 roundballs sound like a good combo.
On the other hand, your .010 patches sound rather "thin" to me and .535 roundballs might be more accurate,... or you might try some .018 patches with the .530 roundballs you already have.
"Age" isn't going to have any effect on your roundballs,.... but might have some effect on "substitute powders" like Pyrodex (and unlike real blackpowder).
thanks, ive since checked the patches, and i cant find a size on them, they were kinda old looking too. The powder was new at least. i dont know if i can measure those patches with a micrometer or not, i never tried measuring cloth.
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whats the knock on black power, since pyrodex is identified as the alternative? whats the trade outs?
Availability and storage are the two drawbacks of real blackpowder,... the alternative powders (blackpowder substitutes) are considered a "flammable solid" by the BATF, rather than a "low explosive", thus they are easier to legally store and which also makes them more available to the public.
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well it looks like i may have .015's? dunno if the pretreated nature of it is causing the extra thickness or not. i just cranked it down til the clicker started.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-mdyP6oYUxCI/Ul2KtjtfAcI/AAAAAAAAEcQ/9xDHUVYK5fk/s1152/20131015_133124.jpg)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-vM96FeJVZGU/Ul2Kr8vz0II/AAAAAAAAEcI/y48FCJ7Uky8/s1152/20131015_133341.jpg)
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If you can't slide the material through the anvils, it's too tight.
Old patches can deteriorate with age. What did your fired patches look like?
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If you can't slide the material through the anvils, it's too tight.
Old patches can deteriorate with age. What did your fired patches look like?
i pulled off a patch from the middle of a stack, and it came right to .018, was able to slide it out.
i did not check any fired patches.
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thanks, ive since checked the patches, and i cant find a size on them, they were kinda old looking too. The powder was new at least. i dont know if i can measure those patches with a micrometer or not, i never tried measuring cloth.
Yes, you can get a pretty good idea of how thick your patch material is with a micrometer, just snug the mic up on the material without getting too tight with the mic.
I buy all my patch material (pillow ticking) from Walmart, or JoAnne's Fabrics, and it measures .018 to .022 thousands.
Buying your patch material in bulk like I do, is a LOT cheaper then buying commercial patches in the small bags.
IF,... you buy pillow ticking from fabric stores (like I do) you must first wash the fabric in order to remove the "sizing" (starch) from it, or the melted starch might possibly mess up the bore of your rifle when fired (or so the experts claim).
I always wash my new material twice before using, just to be on the safe side.
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i did not check any fired patches.
It's a good idea to retrieve some of your patches after firing,.... they should look good enough to re-use.
"Fired" patches that are charred, tattered, or have holes in them, can have an effect on accuracy.
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i did not check any fired patches.
It's a good idea to retrieve some of your patches after firing,.... they should look good enough to re-use.
"Fired" patches that are charred, tattered, or have holes in them, can have an effect on accuracy.
so if the fired patch looks bad, it may be an indicator of some other problem? I will take a look next time i shoot it.
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so if the fired patch looks bad, it may be an indicator of some other problem? I will take a look next time i shoot it.
Yep!
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should i try my groupings at normal hunting range? for me it would probably be around 70 yds or so, or can i still see what im after at 25yds as long as i can identify the best groups?
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I'd start at the 25yd mark as this range takes some of the (man/bad eyes/flinch) out of the equation. With that1:48 twist rate, i'd start with 40gr powder and work up from there. Check the patch condition with each additional increase of powder. My 54cal deer charge is 75gr-3f sighted at 75yd. With a ball that big, you don't need monster charges.
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I can only speak for myself here,.... but when I begin working up loads for a particular rifle, I start at 25 yards off a bench.
Once I'm getting one-hole groups at 25 yards, I adjust my sights to hit center of bull at 25 yards.
After my load and sights are getting one-hole groups in the bullseye at 25 yards,.... I then move out to 50-75-and 100 yards increasing my powder charge until my groups start to open up, then I back down a few grains. Checking a few fired patches as you're working up your loads, can prove invaluable.
I like hunting loads that group 2" high at 50 yards, which (on average) results in them hitting about 1"-2" low at 100 yards (both of which are well within the "kill zone" of deer sized game).
None of my rifles have barrels as short as your Bobcat, so your mileage may likely vary from mine.
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Buzzard is spot-on with his advice.
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this rifle doesnt have adjustable sites either. its all dovetailed. man its supposed to rain the rest of the day, i was gonna try and sling a few rb's. i probably need to clean this thing first, before i spend a lot of time on the range with it. it probably needs a good bath. i also learned there was a recall on some cva bobcats, so i gotta look up the serial numbers to make sure this one isnt one of them.
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i'll be danged if this isnt one of the recalled barrels, serial ends with a 95.
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well now im reading that it was in-line models only, i was going off of another thread elsewhere saying the bobcat was recalled those years.... still reading around. i hope im reading cva's website right, in line models only.
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What problem warranted the recall,.... do they say?
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I didn't catch the specific problem, but it caused barrel breech I believe
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Well the Bobcat is more of a "traditional" design, so I think it's less likely to have breech problems than modern inlines.
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On the CVA website ( http://www.cva.com/terms.php ) they say
VOLUNTARY RECALL
In August 1997, CVA implemented a Voluntary Recall of all In-Line rifle models with serial numbers ending in 95 or 96. If you have a CVA In-Line model with such a serial number do not use or allow anyone else to use the gun. If you have one of these rifles, call CVA immediately at 770-449-4687 for complete details and replacement barrel.
In May 1999, Blackpowder Products, Inc. purchased the assets of Connecticut Valley Arms, Inc. and now operates under the trade name of Connecticut Valley Arms and/or CVA. Any claims relating to the above described Voluntary Recall should be addressed to Connecticut Valley Arms, Inc., not Blackpowder Products, Inc. Blackpowder Products, Inc. assumes no liability for any products manufactured or sold prior to January 1, 1998.
Letter to customers from Blackpowder Products Inc. at this link.
http://cvaguncases.com/uploads/CVA_RECALL_letter_to_end_user.pdf
The recalls appear to be for in-line models. For info regarding models there is this
http://cvaguncases.com/Case___Information_Page.html
Medicine Soldier
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recall was for the inlines not the traditional rifles .
When cleaning make sure that you clean out the bolster / flash channel real well. If you start having ignition issues , that will 99% of the time be the cause .
Make sure after cleaning you replace the barrel key the same way each time . Not just from the same side but also either up or down . Scratch a mark on the top flat of the key so you know that you putting it in the same way each time .
Also a lot of times I have found that do to the shallow drop of the stock , the front sight needs to be in the bottom of the V of the back sight at 25 yars or a person will often shoot high .
Also , If this was a used gun then probably the front sight has already been filed down for the PO. Which maybe to low for you .
As the others said , pick up your patchs and learn to read what they are telling you . Not only will this help you develop a load , but it will also tell you whats going on with the rifling and your charge .
Its not uncommon with a new or hardly used rifle for the barrel to cut patches which will effect accuracy of the load .
As ridge runner stated . Start out at 50 grains and work up in increments of 5 grains and shooting 3 to 5 shot groups with each . As you get to the correct load the groups will get tighter . As you pass it , they will start to open up .
Once they start to open , back down one load measurement . Then start working on different patch lubes . Which will also effect your accuracy to some degree .
Bob cats IMO are for the most part very nice shooting rifles once you get then worked in .
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Joining in late - bit I have a couple Bobcats and some similar styles in CVA and Traditions that I use for
youth shooting (14 in all I think) Most said above was spot on. Since the barrels are short, I use only FFF
or Pyrodex P (3F equiv) and get great results. We only shoot 50 grains (.50 cal max) for youth program and
a .490 ball with .101 patch since we load fast and the ranges are short. However I have played with them a
bit and they perform fairly well with a .490 ball and .015 patch with up to 70 gr FFF. Since they are 1:48 twist
barrels they just will not do as well as a couple of longer guns I have in 1:60 and 1:66 twist.
Those I can load to 100 gr (if I am feeling frisky) and I shoot a .495 with .101 patch. Most of the time 50 to 70 gr
FFF shoots fine for the Rondy trail walk ranges I usually shoot. You can transpose my experience to .54 if you go
nice and easy. If that was a.50 I would make you an offer you could not refuse - but I am a little nervous about
the recall biz - hope you can clarify that for us.
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Yeah I'm certain the recall was in-line only.
I'm glad these little guns are so highly thought of. Isn't a 48 twist faster than a 60 other 66? Why would a slower twist shoot tighter? I'm still learning I guess.
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A slower twist does not put as much spin on the round ball. With too much spin you get a 'curve ball' like in baseball.
However a conical likes spin sort of like the 'spiral' on a football. 1:48 does a fair job with both, but overall a 1:60 or
slower will shoot a round ball better and 1:30 or faster will shoot a conical better - of course that depends a whole lot
on the size and the hardness of the bullet, the powder charge , the particular gun. No easy formula here and of course
thousands of opinions on the subject.