Traditional Muzzleloading Association
Craftsmanship => Gun Building and Repair => Topic started by: KDubs on March 14, 2021, 08:06:14 AM
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Got my stock for the Fowler.
I see the CNC machine ran out along the barrel channel/ lock mortis.
Would there be any issues with that?
Kevin
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Got my stock for the Fowler.
I see the CNC machine ran out along the barrel channel/ lock mortis.
Would there any issues with that?
Kevin
While it's certainly not ideal, it's hard to answer your question without a few more pictures from different angles.
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I'm pretty sure that I'd return it, Kevin....
It's hard enough to fit a stock properly, w/o dealing with someone else's mistake ;banghead;
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I agree with Rondo - need to see more pix of the stock, bbl, lock.
That stock webbing area is super thin by nature. I've removed it for more than one gun as it serves no functional purpose and the overall gun looks better without it.
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All I have at the moment stock n barrel. Waiting on the small parts.
I'll try and post a few more photos when I have time.
Thanks folks.
Kevin
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What kit gun is it?? Who made it?
Dave
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.62 Virginia Fowler. Ordered thru sitting fox.
Shipped from pecatonic long rifle company.
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I ordered a few pre carved stocks from Pecatonica, and IIRC, there were a couple of problems with them. But their wood was exceptional. Always highly figured. Wound up just buying stock blanks instead.
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area in question
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The wood is so thin in this area that i cant imagine it would offer much in the way of structural support if it where intact.
still waiting on the lock and the other stuff.
thoughts?
Will this area be removed as i final inlet the lock ? should I, can I or do I need to reinforce it.
I really don't want to send it back if not absolutely necessary.
kevin
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area in question
Well,.... it's proper for your lock to be snugged up right against the flat on your barrel (so no wood needed there), will you be using 1 lock bolt, or 2?
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I’d be a bit nervous about the cut through going so far forward in what appears to be at an angle, into the barrel channel. The area to the rear, right at the breach end is ok IMO.
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I’d be a bit nervous about the cut through going so far forward in what appears to be at an angle, into the barrel channel. The area to the rear, right at the breach end is ok IMO.
I agree,.... if you're not completely satisfied with the stock they sent you,.... send'er back. :bl th up
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I had more than a few long guns where the webbing in question wasn't even there, and the rest where I took it out. It has no structural context and for the most part it can just get in the way of a good fit between the lock plate and bbl itself. If the integrity of the rest of the stock is intact, I'd just build the gun. However, if yer still in a quandary over this, send the images back to the seller for their answer.
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I had more than a few long guns where the webbing in question wasn't even there, and the rest where I took it out. It has no structural context and for the most part it can just get in the way of a good fit between the lock plate and bbl itself. If the integrity of the rest of the stock is intact, I'd just build the gun. However, if yer still in a quandary over this, send the images back to the seller for their answer.
This is true,.... the tang bolt, trigger plate, lock bolt/s, and barrel, actually support the stock (not the other way around). :bl th up
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Can't recall the lock I ordered. I believe utvus a 1 bolt queen Anne flint.
I've checked a few build sites etc and I think the web area will more than likely be removed.
I'll know better whenever the lock and trigger arrive.
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the breech plug has a lot of machine filings around the threads.
Should i remove it , clean and inspect. ?
I assume i need to know the thread depth before drilling a touch hole in the future.
kevin
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Kevin, where the touch hole gets drilled is dependent on the pan to the barrel
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:yessir:.
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the breech plug has a lot of machine filings around the threads.
Should i remove it , clean and inspect. ?
I assume i need to know the thread depth before drilling a touch hole in the future.
kevin
If it was my bbl, the first thing I'd do is pull the plug - get a witness mark on the underside, pull it with a proper wrench, inspect the threads and chamber, anti-seize grease, put it back. A rod down the tube, with careful measuring, will determine where the touch hole gets drilled. If yer gonna use any manner of liner, don't forget to take into account its diameter. If no liner, and you properly drill the touch hole just off the breech face, you'll not be able to install a liner later on without "trenching" the plug face, in order to accommodate the liner's diameter.
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thanks rob,
I figured I would need to pull the plug.
finally heard from sitting fox, the lock and assorted parts are on the way so hopefully l'll start this build soon.
I mentioned before that i have the the book " recreating the american long rifle " using that and all the great advise from TMA as my guide.
kevin
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As for the breech plug fit it depends on who made the barrel, Rice are spot on, Colerain almost never properly fit, Burton, perfect and of course GM, they don't do plugs so you have to do it yourself. That is all I have experience with.
Take out the plug, put a little Prussian blue on the face of the plug and screw it back in to the witness mark, pull it again and see how well it marks the breech face. You need a good seal all the way around.