Traditional Firearms > Flintlock Long Guns

Hunting loads for the Fusil-de-chasse (.62/20 gauge Smooth)

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WhiteBlanket:
I hope you all don't think me to be too much of a pest if I ask another question.  I went out to the range the other day, and spent the entire day playing with the fusil.  I'm very happy with the gun, but I'm trying to fine tune the loads.

At 25 yards, 120 grains volume of number four shot backed by a greased wad and 80 grains of FFg Goex powder, wiith an "overshot card" of two layers of  brown paper gave me a nice, evenly distributed pattern, which I think will be lethal on a turkey.

I had been loading .62 caliber round ball, with 80 grains of FFg Goex powder topped by a greased wad between powder and ball, and the ball topped by a doubled square of brown paper to keep the ball in place.  My groups are good, but not yet great, as I am still trying to figure out how to read the sight picture window with just the front sight.  I was reading Mr. Spencer's Black Powder Notebook, and noticed that he used both a wad and a patched ball.  I'm not sure that this is historical, but I imagine it does make for a better gas seal, increases the barrel pressure and therefore the muzzle velocity of the ball, and possibly keeps it more accurately moving down the center of the bore.

On the historical level, I'm not aware of the use of patches with fusils.  As far as I know, they were wadded not patched.  I do know some people use powder and bare ball, but I can scarcely imagine that this improves accuracy.  For hunting purposes, I would like as accurate a load as possible.

I have found that a light muslin will serve as a super thin patch, enabling me to load my .600 round ball as if a rifle. I haven't fired this yet, though, so I'm not sure how well such a patch will survive being fired.   Again, I'm not sure how historical this practice is, but I want the most ethical shot possible to take a deer.  I'm tempted to take Mr. Spencer's suggestion and load with both wad and patch.  Any thoughts from your own experience?

Mitch:
I use 75-80gr 3f, patched .595ball-no wad.....it works for me...

Sir Michael:
Before making a you know what of myself I'll ask the question, why did you select the shot size you did?  Having asked that, my experience is that if you start with the measure you use for powder filled with shot you should have a good starting point.  Then adjust either the powder or shot (one) up or down by what ever increment you can use reliably and when you get close to the pattern you want adjust the other until you get the rest of the way there.

FYI I belong to a trap club that has a pattern board.  It is far more useful to us a pattern board to work up a load for shot than anything else.  JMHO. :shake  :toast

WhiteBlanket:
Sir Michael,

I was not happy with the pattern at equal volumes of shot and powder.  I started there...  But it's a full cylinder bore and tends to disperse the shot widely and quickly. This way I get a denser pattern.

 I had been getting a doughnut-shaped pattern until I stopped using conventional over-shot cards.  Plain brown paper ( or oak leaves) are much better.  I realize that a volume and a half is about the limit of the volume of shot I can use effectively.  I'll have to play around a bit more, as you suggest.

Somebody mentioned the use of a thin leather "shotcup" -- I'd love to know the dimensions of that.  

I need to be able to put at a minimum 3-4 of #4 shot -  with power - reliably on the turkey's  head and neck to be sure of the ethical shot; 6-8 of #7.  I have been going for the #4 shot:  if I miss, I miss, but am less likely to end up with a merely wounded bird.

Thanks' all, for the suggestions on the roundball - I've ordered 50 .595 cal. balls to play with on a regular greased patch.

No Rod:
For hunting I have found in modern shotguns that the use of #4 nets way more birds that any other shot size. I just used that knowledge in muzzleloading shot choice. I'm sure #4's are overkill for pats but really shine on pheasants. I don't hunt turkey but it should work great on them too. I use #8's for clays.

I'm almost afraid to say what my shot load is. I have an Irish shot charger and I use 2 full charges for it on top of 75grs of 3F Swiss. I use an over powder card, dry felt wad and an over shot card as well. Shoots like a full choke and kicks like a mule! I should lube the wad, it leads up after 5 or 6 shots but when I do it blows a hole in the pattern. Need to find something light... water soluble oil maybe... don't know.

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