Traditional Muzzleloading Association
Craftsmanship => Gun Building and Repair => Topic started by: Buster95 on November 03, 2019, 09:30:24 AM
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I would like to know if a steel wedge maybe one from a GPR will fit on a Lyman Trade rifle?
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The front wedge of a GPR is; 1.32", 0.36" wide, 0.12" thick.. (according to Track of the Wolf)
The rear wedge of a GPR is; 1.35", 0.36" wide, 0.12" thick....(according to Track of the Wolf)
I would suggest trying it, and if needed you could always file it...
However, contacting Lyman with your question would be your best bet, IMHO... :shake - and they probably have what you need...
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Ohio Joe you are right I will contact Lyman.
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I never could tell the difference between the front and back when I had a Lyman GPR; they both fit either slot.
I was advised at one time to get the slotted wedge which Track sells to make a captive wedge, which I did. Since then, I just take a Dremel w/ cut off wheel and cut my own slot down the center of the wedge. Then, you put a small piece of wire, a section of pin or something like that behind the escutcheons and through the slot. Well, first you have to remove the escutcheon, then screw it down again with the pin between it and the stock. Then you can't pull the wedge all the way out and you won't lose it.
Here is what I got the first time. I had to lengthen the slot both ways so the wedge would come back far enough to clear the underlugs and go in far enough to sit flat against the escutcheon.
https://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/964/2/KEY-58-I
~Kees~
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Winter Hawk, That's brilliant! I'm getting my Dremel out right now.
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I always set my Engllish rifles up that way, from the baby (20 bore) up to the big Mama (4 bore). Never had a wedge problem, ever.
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I normally will bees-wax my wedges before sliding them in their slot... Seems to work okay, but Kees' method is far more superior IMHO... :bl th up
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I normally will bees-wax my wedges before sliding them in their slot... Seems to work okay, but Kees' method is far more superior IMHO... :bl th up
I refuse to take responsibility for that! Jim Baichtal suggested it to me many years ago when we both were on the Thorne Bay District of the Tongass National Forest. I just figured out that it was cheaper to cut the slot myself than to pay Track to do it.
~Kees~
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I normally will bees-wax my wedges before sliding them in their slot... Seems to work okay, but Kees' method is far more superior IMHO... :bl th up
I refuse to take responsibility for that! Jim Baichtal suggested it to me many years ago when we both were on the Thorne Bay District of the Tongass National Forest. I just figured out that it was cheaper to cut the slot myself than to pay Track to do it.
~Kees~
That's my thoughts as well, Kees... I always figure that what we can do ourselves in the long run can saves us money, and we get the bonus of building knowledge as well. :toast
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Finished the last of 6 rifles and 2 pistols.
Regardless of who thought it up, Thanks, Kees for sharing it.