Post by: Minnesota Mike on April 22, 2008, 10:56:20 AM
Thanks.
r/
MM
Post by: Riley/MN on April 22, 2008, 12:41:55 PM
Post by: Minnesota Mike on April 22, 2008, 12:53:36 PM
Ohhh man . . . so funny . . . you should be on stage . . .
Understand there is one leaving town in an hour . . .
Used to have recurve back in high school/college. Was pretty good with it too. Could clip or split arrows in tight group. Stopped doing that when I realized I had to buy more arrows.
Then went upon the high seas with the Navy. One dark day Dad decided that if I had really wanted all the stuff in my room, I'd have taken it with me . . . Yard Sale!!!
Understand he sold it for around a dollar and the arrows for a dime each . . .
r/
MM
Post by: Riley/MN on April 22, 2008, 01:10:37 PM
Sorry for the hijack...
What kinda bow ya get?
Post by: SAWMA on April 22, 2008, 01:21:31 PM
Post by: Minnesota Mike on April 22, 2008, 02:06:52 PM
Bow was unfinished, needed to be smoothed over for final clean up.
Will bring in card for sutler that sold it - seem to recall his name was Leroy. Got to actually meet the bow maker later in camp, made in northern AL.
r/
MM
Post by: Uncle Russ on April 22, 2008, 03:47:47 PM
Quote
One dark day Dad decided that if I had really wanted all the stuff in my room, I'd have taken it with me . . . Yard Sale!!!
Mike, Yer Dad was a very kind and intelligent man. At least he waited until you had moved out...give him credit.
SAWMA mentioned the wax, and flexing a bit before you shoot. The only other thing I might consider would be not to set it, or store it on it's end for long periods of time, and un-string it when not in use.
That, and a periodic treatment with boiled Linseed Oil is about all I know to do to keep 'em in shape.
We have a bunch of real honest to goodness bow shooters that hang out here, and I'm sure a few of them will drop by with some good "usable" advise..... 'till then, I just want to say congratulations on yer new bow...enjoy it! They can be a lot of fun.
Post by: Fletcher on April 22, 2008, 06:13:42 PM
Boiled (non hardening) Linseed is goo. I use non hardening tung oil (2 or 3 coats should do for the original) than once a year.
Beeswax on the string to keep the frays dowm. Watch for wear spots on the nock point and the loops.
Unstring and lay flat. Limber it up easy, especially in cold weather.
Sure way to 'blow' a bow. Take it out of a hot building in below zero weather. String it, walk around about a half hour then reef back to full draw.
Ker-powwwwwwwwwwwww
Post by: Minnesota Mike on April 23, 2008, 10:58:02 AM
Have seen bows with leather hand grips and some sort of leather caps on the ends.
Thoughts?
r/
MM
Post by: Fletcher on April 23, 2008, 07:52:55 PM
Don't know what you mean by end caps. Got any pictures of them?
Post by: Minnesota Mike on April 24, 2008, 10:36:56 AM
May have been nothing more than to protect the ends and notches until time to sting the bow. Not sure.
Any advice on what/how to add the hand grip?
r/
MM
Post by: Fletcher on April 24, 2008, 04:05:59 PM
Then baseball stitch in on with 2 leather needles and fine artificial sinew. The gap should close tight and the handle not move.
A bone needle and real sinew if you are adventurous!
Or you could send the bow to me and I will put on a handle for $20 and send the bow back when I'm tired of shooting it :oops:
You can use stiffer leather too but it is harder to stitch and much less stretch.
Post by: Uncle Russ on April 24, 2008, 07:08:34 PM
I keep my "stringer", with its two little leather pockets that cover the end/ tip of the bow, on my bows when they're not in use, just so I don't loose it.....not that I use it all time.
I've grown lazy in my old days, and a lot of times I just use the "step-thru" method to string a bow.
It's just a guess on my part, but that is about all I could imagine you might have seen when it comes to leather on the tips.
Post by: Minnesota Mike on April 25, 2008, 11:42:49 AM
Think I may have heard of such a critter - care to ellucidate?
And you may have been right - probably should have asked - What are THOSE things? But didn't - oh well . . .
r/
MM
Post by: Stormrider51 on May 22, 2008, 06:44:55 PM
I guess from what I read that you bought a primitive bow. "Primitive" by my definition is one that does not contain any modern material such as fiberglass, carbon, etc. Such a bow can last a long time if it is cared for. Everyone gave excellent suggestions. Draw it slowly several times before the first shot of the day. (Good for both you and the bow.) Don't take a bow from a warm environment to a cold one and shoot it without letting it cool down. Never leave a primitive bow strung when not in use. Don't stand it on its end, especially not on a concrete or dirt floor. (Place it horizontally on a rack with the supports on either end of the grip, not out on the tips.) NEVER allow your bow to be overdrawn! The bowyer made it to be a specific weight of draw at a specific draw length. Allowing your gorilla-armed buddy who draws 31" to draw your 28" draw length bow is sure to damage the bow.
You might want to order a copy of Byron Ferguson's book "Become the Arrow". There's also a DVD out now. That book taught me more about shooting a barebow than anything else I read. And I read a lot.
Storm
Post by: Uncle Russ on May 22, 2008, 07:54:20 PM
Hope you are able to contribute a bit more as you go along, as well as getting to meet / know some of our fine members.
Kick back, make yerself confortable, and enjoy what we have to offer. We have a lot to share.
You might even want to consider a membership somewhere down the road. We're always glad to have a new member.
Uncle Russ..
Post by: Minnesota Mike on May 23, 2008, 11:04:08 AM
Yes it's a primitive. Only a 35 lb draw for plinking (since most of my 'shooting' is done with charcoal burners). And I wanted a real bow for our June Family Frolic we have at our club as part of the Woodswalk (together with spear toss and hawk/knife throw).
Guess I need to take a photo and post so y'all can see what she looks like. Tried her out earlier in the month - shoots very nice and can reach out further than I thought. Took a ranging shot at the 100 yd targets with about 30 degree angle elevation . . . was short of targets by only about 10 ft. Glad I did not shoot at 45 degrees - only got 3 arrows and that would be a very stupid way to lose one.
r/
MM
Post by: Stormrider51 on May 23, 2008, 12:18:37 PM
You avoided one of the most common mistakes new archers make, being overbowed. Too many newbies buy a bow that is too heavy for them and can't shoot it so they give up. Worse yet, some will suffer an injury thanks to the strain. Just like any other physical activity it takes time for your muscles to develop. If you can't come to full draw and hold it steadily and comfortably for at least 15 seconds, you need to either go to a lighter bow or work on developing your drawing muscles.
There are those who claim that you need a bow of around 60# draw weight in order to hunt deer. I've frankly never seen a deer that requires that much poundage. I can personally attest that a razor sharp two-edged broadhead launched from a 40# bow will blow all the way through the chest of the average Texas whitetail. As with most hunting tools, it is not so much what you shoot as where you put the projectile. I have a friend who has collected his deer every season for as long as I've known him with a .40 cal flinter. When I started shooting muzzleloaders almost 50 years ago .45 was considered an all-around caliber and .50 was a big-bore mostly used for elk or other larger critters.
One last thought about your bow. If you plan to hunt with it check your local regulations. Here in Texas there is a requirement for at least a 40# draw weight.
Russ,
I like the site. Think I may stick around for a while. I would have joined already if there was a way to do so online. (Hint, Hint)
Storm
Post by: Fletcher on May 23, 2008, 05:28:49 PM
OBTW - did ya sign up for the Wand shoot?