Thompson Center Lock

[daddywpb]

I found out why the trigger on my new Cherokee is so stiff. Rust on the lock -  a lot of it. Very discouraging. Are there instructions available on how to disassemble / reassemble it? Are there any special tools required? I'm hoping that I won't need parts, just claning and polishing. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

[Roaddog]

Hay folks this man has askt for some help two days ago. How about some help,
All I can tell ya Dad is Dixie Gun Worka cadalog has a diagram of a caplock and a flint lock on how to. I'm sure some one will chime in here with more info.

[Riley/MN]

I went to look at their website and saw a button for manuals. Nothing listed for the Cherokee, but it did say:

Dear Customer,

Thompson/Center Arms, Inc. is providing certain TCA owner's manuals for your convenience. Our hope is that this material will be of value to you.

If you don't find your firearm listed, please contact our Customer Service Department at 1-866-730-1614 or fax us a request at 603-332-5133.[

Maybe a call could get you a manual. I have not dealt with TCs much myself.

I did find this
http://www.tcarms.com/assets/manuals/no ... r_Guns.pdf

but it does not address the trigger that I saw in a quick browse through it.

[Bigsmoke]

Well, the problem in disassembling a T/C lock is compressing the mainspring.  Without any special tools, I think a bench vise and two flat tip screwdrivers will get the job done.  Clamp the lockplate in the vice, and start with the hammer in full cock position.  Then put a screwdriver in each side of the main spring coil and compress the spring fully.  A second person or third hand comes in handy here.  Move the mainspring plunger out of the guide and the most difficult piece of the procedure is done.  Then it's just a matter of reversing the steps to reassemble it.
Back 40 years ago when I was doing the RDV scene, I devised a spring compressor that worked pretty good.  I took a (I think they are called) duck bill pliers and ground the tips down pretty thin, then cut a notch in the tip to go over the rod.  Simple matter to just insert the pliers into the coil and squeeze a bit.  I will look around this afternoon and see if I can still find them and take a photo.

[Captchee]

yep , what bigsmoke said  is true .
 thats the hardest part . once you have the coil spring out , simply remove the briddle  . lift out the fly " small little tab "
 set that aside  in a safe place  or it will disappear like a weft of smoke .
 Take the hammer screw off the hammer .  Support the lock plate across the jaws of a vice  and  using a brass punch  tap the tumbler from the hammer .
 Clean up your parts and  put the lock back together .
Don’t forget to put the fly back in the tumbler .

[Ironhand]

To remove a TC mainspring I usually use a small vice grip. Compress the main spring by cocking the hammer, clamp the vice grip on the rod where it sticks thru the guide block, then uncock the hammer. Remove the hammer and tumbler. Now you can access the spring to restrain it while removing the vice grips. I usually push the rod tip against the edge of my work bench, remove the vise grip and slowly release the spring. Be careful, it is under a lot of pressure. Reassembly is in reverse order.

[Bigsmoke]

Here is the T/C Mainspring Pliers that I made lo these many years ago.

[daddywpb]

Thanks to all for the help. I appreciate it.

[daddywpb]

Good news - at least it is for me, I soaked the lock in WD-40, and used bronze and nylon brushes and dental picks on it, and it looks rust free. All of the parts are moving freely. I will put it back togeather this weekend and hopefully have a working rifle again.

[Roaddog]

That's what I like to hear. Let us knoe how she shoots.

[dennyhawk]

Ya might wanna spray a little Ballistol in there to prevent future rust problems...can't hurt!

[MARTINO]

Be sure also to wipe off excess oil it will swell the wood and increase wood rot. I like PB blaster and let soak over night.... really penetrates rust . works for me

[rickevans]

I second the PB Blaster. Soak it over night, work the parts well. CLEAN THE LOCK. lightly oil friction points. Good to go.

[Three Hawks]

About the best lube for side locks is automatic transmission fluid.  The amount left in an empty bottle will last decades as it is best used in miniscule bits. It never dries, doesn't attract dirt and doesn't smell.  Also, if one stops at any auto repair, an empty transmission fluid bottle will be available for the asking.  Finding a suitable teeny lil' applicator bottle, well that might take some doing.

Three Hawks

[pathfinder]

Three Hawk's,ya stole my thunder! ATF,specificly DextronII is what I've been using for the past few years as a storage lube.. Haven't tried shooting it yet as a patch lube though.