Traditional Muzzleloading Association
Traditional Firearms => Flintlock Long Guns => Topic started by: Winter Hawk on June 28, 2023, 04:28:05 PM
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I replaced the sights on my T-C Pennsylvania Hunter with lower ones, because the comb of the stock felt too low with the existing sights. Today was a non-rain day for a change so off I went to the range to shoot my June postal shoot target, using said rifle. I took a couple of sighter shots and the new sights were good for windage but I need to lower the front a bit.
Holding at the top of the black on the target worked pretty well; ignition was very erratic. I replaced the flint with a new, French amber one but getting the gun to go off was spotty at best. The sparks were pretty anemic, not many and red rather than a nice bright yellow. I think I'll replace the frizzen with one from RMC Ox-Yoke, which has Lyman frizzens modified for T-C. They claim these will spark better than the T-C; we'll see. Unfortunately they are out of stock at present. I called up and they hope to have them in in the next 3 months....
I would try Kasinit to harden it but that is no longer available. Brownell's has their own surface hardening compound and I may get a jar of that to try. It would cost about the same as buying a new frizzen. Or should I try collecting bones and barbecue the frizzen with them in a tightly closed can?
Frustrating!
~Kees~
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Hmmm... Usually the T/C locks spark pretty good. Not sure what to say.
But the RPL replacement percussion lock works just wonderfully. Shot a 23 shot trailwalk with our updated PA Hunter with the percussion lock on it. 23 shots, 23 caps used.
The same cannot be said for the RPL flintlock. After about 15 hammer falls with a fresh black English flint, (I think it went off like 3 times) I decided to put a French amber in it. That brought the ignition factor up to it "going boom" about every other hammer fall. I just loves these darn flintlocks. Yeah, right!
John (Bigsmoke)
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Kees, bones alone won't do it, you need fine ground hardwood charcoal, burnt and ground bones or leather, and some graphite helps a bunch, if you have a coal forge you can get the crucible hot enough, if not, it's into a very hot wood fire for a min of 6 hours, be very careful when releasing the crucible cover to quench as the graphite may flash like black powder ( don't ask me how I know this), you'll play hell trying to find a replacement TC frizzen, does L&R still make a drop in rock lock for these?
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Jim's right about the L&R Replacement Lock. They are running $245.00 (shipping not included) and Track of the Wolf does have them in stock / last I checked. The question becomes; is the cost of a replacement lock worth the money? Personally I can't see where it is, so you've nothing to lose by doing the leather wrap in the can route IMHO, but I've never done this so again - I would listen to Beaverman. :shake
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Kees, they are in stock at Midway. https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1002257266 :bl th up :hairy
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Thanks Dave! They have to be modified for the T-C, it looks like the width has to be stoned down. One is on order!
Joe, the identical rifle I sold to John has the L&R lock on it. It was reliable for me except that it ate flints. I have since learned that grinding down the sides of the main spring will weaken it enough to ease up the strike on the frizzen so the flints last longer.
John, I don't know what to say. It was reliable shot after shot for me, except for needing to knap or replace the flint fairly often. It must be one of those California things... :Doh! You might call L&R and see what they say. Glad that the trailwalk went satisfactorily! :toast
And Mr. Beaverman, if this new frizzen doesn't work out I will be building a hot fire outside and see what I can do to add some carbon to it.
Thank you all for the advice!
~Kees~
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Aw c'mon Kees, your not gonna jump on the crucible idea? where's your sense of adventure?
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I'll have a spare frizzen to try putting it in a forge, in a can with lots of other goodies, tightly closed of course. I'll see first what the new one does.
~Kees~
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Kees, having never done the prescribed method of wrapping the frizzen in leather and sealing it in a tin can - then firing it in the coals, I would be interested in your results if you do decide to go this route (even if nothing more then having a spare frizzen)... :shake
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:wave New one's supposed to be here by next Friday. Excitement knows no bounds! :applaud
~Kees~
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For guaranteed results, you could install a drum and nipple on the barrel and get one of L & R's RPL percussion locks. It seems to work wonders.
Of course, I have no patience with flinters and have been shooting percussion guns since 1964.
John
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John makes a good point.
I like both cap and flintlock ML's, and to be honest - I've had way less fuss with the cappers, but I also truly enjoy the rock-locks. Both have their good and stubborn qualities. On the plus side for a flintlock (you'll most likely always be able to get flints / or make your own) - and on the percussion side, the caps seem to always go up in price (as do the flints, but not as crazy as caps do). We're lucky to have choices, that's for sure. :shake
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For guaranteed results, you could install a drum and nipple on the barrel and get one of L & R's RPL percussion locks. It seems to work wonders.
Of course, I have no patience with flinters and have been shooting percussion guns since 1964.
John
Another thought that has crossed my mind is to just go for broke. I think the PA Hunter is a beautiful rifle that does somewhat of a resemblance to an english rifle. So, I wonder how difficult it would be to ditch the stock breech plug and install an English style plug with a rain bar and a shotgun lock. Of course, getting rid of the stock trigger and trigger guard would then be necessary and replace them with a nice English set. Whoa, this is starting to get expensive. Better stop where I am.
John (Bigsmoke)
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The new Lyman frizzen came in on Friday. I got it fitted today, which meant that I had to take the Dremmel tool to the tongue which goes into the slot in the lock plate and make it a tad bit skinnier. I tried first with a file but the frizzen steel was too hard. Once it was on and working correctly the lock throws a bunch of bright yellow and white sparks, much better than the original frizzen. I want to fire off a bunch of priming charges next, to see how consistent it is. Then off to the range and give it the REAL test! :luff:
Stay tuned!
~Kees~
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So, I wonder how difficult it would be to ditch the stock breech plug and install an English style plug with a rain bar and a shotgun lock.
John, If you notice, the smoothbore barrel was built with a standard, flat faced breech plug instead of a T-C "antechamber" one. So this may be doable!
Frustration mounted again yesterday. Several days after installing the new frizzen I stood on the back porch and primed the pan and fired it off without a hitch, 12 times in a row. Yesterday I went to shoot my July postal shoot targets and the reliability was GONE. I reknapped the flint, changed the flint, wiped down the frizzen and pan for every shot and still had more failures to ignite the prime than the rifle going off. I have ordered a new mainspring from Suzi at the Gun Works Emporium to see if that will improve things. The other thought is that the since it is one of the old style locks, I may want to get the new style cock which is supposed to have better geometry.
We'll see....
~Kees~
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Kees, what was the humidity yesterday when you were shooting?
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Kees, what was the humidity yesterday when you were shooting?
I don't know, but probably high as it has been for quite some time here. Next time out I'll use the Hodgepodge rifle which is a known performer. If it has problems also I can blame outside interference. :laffing
~Kees~
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The new mainspring is in, and WOW, what a difference! She sparks like a house afire. Now to slip out some morning to see how she shoots. Depending on that I may order a new cock from ML Emporium since this one is the old style and the new style is supposed to have better geometry. We'll see; if it does well, why "fix" it? :laffing
~Kees~
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I went out to the range on the 25th to shoot my October targets, with the T-C. She worked well, except for not reminding me that the powder goes in before the patched ball. :Doh! I guess I can't blame the rifle for that! I also had a little problem in that I had changed out the front sight for a Lyman globe sight I had on hand. I took a couple of sighting shots before trying for record. The first shot was way low, holding right on the piece of black tape on a paper plate. I then tried holding at the top of the plate which was high. The next shot i held the base of the post on the tape and was close enough to try the TMA target. That gave me a string of holes, all good for windage but elevation ran from the top of the 10 ring to the bottom of the 8. I have an order in to Track of the Wolf for a couple of front sights, when they are installed I'll give it a try again. I am very please with how reliable ignition was, though. :laughing
~Kees~
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I'm glad you were able to fix your ignition woes. If you dry ball a few more times, you can change your screen name to No Powder Jr. I hope you were able to get that ball out without too much trouble.
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Don't ya love it when a flintlock actually works :bigsmile:
Kevin
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Actually No Powder, I have become quite proficient at working powder into the touch hole (vent) to shoot the ball out. :laffing Experience is a great teacher! :o I keep thinking of getting one of those CO2 thingies to take care of the problem but I'm too cheap to spend the required money. :luff: I am NOT going to change my moniker; I was dubbed "Hawk" in high school, and I will stay a noble bird of prey, thank you. :toast
~Kees~