cut down a brass powder dispenser

[jtwodogs]

I have a full-size brass powder dispenser that I am wanting to cut down to make a short more convenient frizzen charger. I could cut it down no problem but don't have anything big enough to put threads back on it. Any suggestions. Thanks.

[Bigsmoke]

Good Morning,
A little clarification if you would.
By brass powder dispenser, are you talking about the round powder flask by Treso?  It is possibly 6" long x 1 1/2" diameter? (Guessing on those dimensions) If so, they do have a smaller one that is the same diameter but only half as long.  I had one a while back that I modified by drilling out the center hole a bit and silver soldered one of Treso's brass pour spouts into it.  Worked great as a hunting flask.  It held 800 grains which was 4 shots for my 12 bore Sporting Rifle.
If I am on the right track here, really that is a bit large(especially in diameter) for a priming flask.  You can take a 120 grain fixed powder measure and press a bushing into it then affix a priming valve.  Or a 30-06 casing will accept a Treso priming valve and that should be good for 50+ shots.
All sort of things that one can do and they are fun little projects.
John

[PetahW]

.

FWIW, I wouldn't care for a pan primer that big/large, since a small charger carries better, and should last a day's hunt.

A Treso is under $15





Or, one can be fashioned via epoxying a readily-available (Track of the Wolf & others) small valve/spout to a hollowed out deer antler tip or to the handle section of a hollowware knife/fork/etc






These are cleaning brushes made from the hollow handles, but the small valve (above) in easily substututed for the brush head.




.

[Uncle Russ]

GOOULLIE, Pete.... I sure do like that Priming Horn on the left in the picture.
I made one from an Antler several years ago, but I didn't have the "Rosen" for a base, as that one does.
In my own humble opinion, THAT makes this little horn super neat.

Everybody is right on the fact about a "priming valve" being a really special item.
That little puppy can be attached to just about anything you can imagine that will hold your fine powder and keep it dry. There's hundreds of gadgets and make-do items out there, but there's nothing quite like that little priming valve to make ya one happy camper.

Jus'sayin

Uncle Russ...

[jtwodogs]

I think the treso priming horn valve is exactly what I need. Was going to use some Elk antler and turn it into a primer. Thanks.

[Uncle Russ]

I think the treso priming horn valve is exactly what I need. Was going to use some Elk antler and turn it into a primer. Thanks.

J2Dogs, FWIW; I personally think that is a very wise decision!

You, me, and thousands of others, derive a tremendous pleasure from the making of something, just about anything in fact, with our own hands by our own lonesome self, anything other than 'store bought', because our GGG Grand Pappy would have made his own.....we often say those very same, or somewhat similar words.

We then jump dead into the middle of something, something that ends up costing us $50 or $60 bucks, when it would have been very easy to just buy that little something, which will be a better, more expertly made product, and would have saved ourselves some really big bucks in doing so.

That my friend is the life of a Modern Day Buckskinner......still yet, we love what we do, because even the best of the store-bought just ain't home made.
How many times have ya heard;      "I made this, that, or the other and it only cost me $40.00  Then today, I found the very same one in a catalog for a measly $12 bucks"..... so the cycle continues.

Uncle Russ....
 

[PetahW]

I think the treso priming horn valve is exactly what I need. Was going to use some Elk antler and turn it into a primer. Thanks.

Please don't shy away from taking pics as you go, and posting them here......   


.

[Maven]

I'd like to make one of those pan primers, but don't know how to drill out the antler or antler tines.  Is a drill press necessary?  special bits?

[Bigsmoke]

Maven,
I always have used just regular twist bits.  IIRC.  I think the valve hole should be 5/16, maybe 1/64 smaller.  Drill smaller than you need at first, and increase to fit by 1/64 increments.  Maybe start 3/64 smaller than 5/16 then go up.
When you get to a snug fit but big enough for the valve to go all the way in, check out the fit of the nose of the valve to the antler.  Does there appear any clearance there?  If so, file or sand the high point down to where it is flush all the way around.
I have a sacrificial valve that I use to file/sand down to so the antler point will come down to blend to the valve.  This is certainly an extra step that really isn't necessary, but it does produce a more pleasing appearance.
To drill out the center section of the tip, start small and increase the size as you go until you get to whatever size you want.  Be careful you don't drill out the side.  You can cap the hole anyway you want.
Now, it is time to install the valve.  I typically use Devcon 5 minute epoxy, but you can use whatever you like.  Taking a flat toothpick or just any old piece of wood about that size, mix up a dollop of epoxy (it is not going to take a lot) and spread the epoxy into the hole in the antler.  Do not put it onto the valve body.  Put it into the hole.  I don't remember exactly why, but I unscrew the cap about a quarter of a turn and seat the valve where it bottoms out.  I will hold the antler tip in an upright position for about 30 seconds while pressing down on the cap.  Then set it aside with the valve end up for about 20 minutes while the glue dries.  NOTE:  take the tip and the spring out before starting the glue process.
I have found that if a person takes a little time here, it will result in a smother operating valve.  I always polish the plunger with white rouge so that it is nice and shiny.  It will make for a smother operating valve.  It will also clean up any flashing on the hole drilled into the side of the plunger.  Next, take a drill bit the exact size of the plunger and clean up the end hole in the valve body, this will clear out any glue that might have gotten into the hole.
As far as drill presses go, you don't really need one but it is a great convenience.  I would also say that a bench vise really makes the procedure much easier.
Have fun putting this together.  In my years of making these little things, I had made a drill index with the size drill bits that I needed in it and that really cut down the time looking for the bits.  As a result, I have no clue what size bits I used.  You will have to figure that out.

[Maven]

Thanks, John for a detailed & clear explanation!

[jtwodogs]

 [ Invalid Attachment ]

This is piece of Elk antler I have to work with.

[jtwodogs]

The elk antler seems to be rather soft and pithy when I drilled it out. I am thinking I may change over and go with some Osage to make my charger.

[Uncle Russ]

The elk antler seems to be rather soft and pithy when I drilled it out. I am thinking I may change over and go with some Osage to make my charger.

That antler appears to me to be a dropped / shed antler.
Such antlers are indeed very soft and pithy....once that anther is exposed to the elements, that is pretty much what you can expect.

I have seen pan primmers made from wood, I have to say the couple I've seen were pretty nifty.
Can't say I ever seen one from Osage, but I have seen some nice polished wood pan primers.

Russ..

[Bigsmoke]

Another good option for pan primers, and even screw-tip or applied tip powder horns is moose antler tips.  They work pretty good IMHO.  I cannot say that I have ever attempted to make something out of a drop that has sat on the ground as long as that one appears to have done.
I think I will have to make up a pan primer out of hard maple and see how that turns out.
John