Traditional Muzzleloading Association
Traditional Firearms => Flintlock Long Guns => Topic started by: School Belle on September 25, 2008, 11:31:41 AM
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Help! Can anyone tell me how to remove the barrel from a Pedersoli Scout Carbine (.32 Flintlock)? I've removed the screw on top and the two on the side and the lock, but the barrel still won't come loose. I thought it would take down the same way as the Pedersoli Frontier/Blue Ridge/Hatfield, but it doesn't.
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Are there pins to drift out that may be holding the barrel in the stock? Look on the for arm and see. I don't own one of these so I don't know. Why are you taking the barrel out?
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Are there pins to drift out that may be holding the barrel in the stock? Look on the for arm and see. I don't own one of these so I don't know. Why are you taking the barrel out?
There are a bunch of pins--little, tiny ones--all along the wood under the barrel. I was taking it apart to see if I could, to see if I would clean it the same way as my big Pedersoli.
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Just take the lock off and use a flush tube instead.
Drifting those pins out will up the chance of messing up the wood on the forestock. Some of those pins hold the barrel to the stock, and some of them probably hold the thimbles to the stock.
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Just take the lock off and use a flush tube instead.
Drifting those pins out will up the chance of messing up the wood on the forestock. Some of those pins hold the barrel to the stock, and some of them probably hold the thimbles to the stock.
Your correct, my Pedersoli Kentucky is like that and I bent a pin once......not a fun deal to straighten that little booger either......flush tube is the best way to go, especially one of the clamp-on type. Not sure where I saw those but TOTW may have them.
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Don't take barrel out unless you have to. I don't normally take my barrels off. I plug the touch hole with a tooth pick and then fill with cleaning solution, let soak, dump and clean.
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I leave the barrell in to clean it. I put the gun on my gun cleaning center rests upside down with the muzzle slightly higher than the breech end. I also place a big cookie sheet under the gun to catch the water as it runs out of the vent hole. Then I pour the boiling hot water into the muzzle thru a funnel & tube/hose. Any water that spills won't run in between the barrell & the stock because water doesn't run uphill. I like using the boiling water too because the barrell heats up & after you get done running patches thru it, until you get dry patches, the heat will finish evaporating any left over moisture. The heat will also melt lube/protectant into the pores of the metal if you apply it before the barrell cools down too much.
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I always take the barrel off unless I'm just swabbing the barrel at the range or in the field. I don't want any water and powder residue crud collecting under the barrel and causing rust and corrosion to form there possibly weakening the barrel lugs. A little care when removing the barrel pins is all it takes, but when it cleaned it's clean and I don't have to worry about it rusting away on me. Just my 2 cents. Total cleaning time with the barrel off and the lock out and cleaned and oiled, NO MORE THAN 15 MINUTES.
Worth the extra time I think.
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I usually take the barrels out of my long guns once a year maybe every other year and set them back in a light coat of wax,after a light oiling of the barrel itself. I hunt in the Coastal Mts of Oregon and the only rust I have had was on barrels left in the white and it was very little and wooled off easily. some takem 'em off a lot some don't
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im with TG on this . i take mine off once a year and do a real deep cleaning to them . normaly i find nothing but as TG i like to make sure and add a good coat of waxed grease to the bottom of the barrel
remeber the pins come out and go in from one side . normaly the left side . so use a chase thats smaller then the hole , in from the right side
put the pins back in before you tighten down the tang screw . take them out after losening the tang screw .
there should be a pin in the main for stock , then one just infront of the entry thimble .. and one at the nose . you might find one center as well .
its also a good time on production guns to check the pins . sometimes they use a pin that have flat ends. if so take a small file or sand paper and round the eds so that and good and smooth . this way they will in the future go in and out much nicer and reduce the chance of them digging into the stock itself .
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Cap, I like to make my pins by chucking them in a drill and shaping round them carefully against a grinder and then against a wire wheel. Very easy and gives a nice soft luster on the ends.
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I keep a piece of styrofoam on the bench marked so the pins all go back into the right holes they easily push in and pull out of that suff.
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I keep a piece of styrofoam on the bench marked so the pins all go back into the right holes they easily push in and pull out of that suff.
I like that. Why are the simplest ideas sometimes the hardest to think of?
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All good tips.