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Author Topic: Dye Problem  (Read 2237 times)

Offline jbullard1

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Dye Problem
« on: September 11, 2008, 08:44:50 PM »
I am trying to dye my white cotton pants with boiled walnut hulls. I left them in the hot solution for a couple of hours then took them out. my wife wanted them washed so I did and now they are almost white again. Other than Rit any ideas??
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Offline david32cal

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« Reply #1 on: September 11, 2008, 09:09:01 PM »
Jerry you may have to leave it in the solution for a couple days for it to set in, if you hav'nt already add a handful of salt to it and stir it two or three times a day.
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Offline Mitch

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« Reply #2 on: September 11, 2008, 09:20:26 PM »
get yourself about 1 pound of salt, one gallon of vinegar and one gallon of water...mix well, put those pants in the "mordant" let it sit awhile....pull the pants out of the mordant, wring'em out good(back into the mordant bucket), then put the pants in the dyebath for about a week, wring'em out good(back into the dye pot) and DON'T wash'em with soap....hang the pants up and let'em dry...then put about 2cups of baking soda in the washer(NO SOAP!!) and run'em thru....should give'em a bit of color and you can repeat as needed...hope this helps, I've dyed A LOT of stuff this way and it works for me...
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Offline Uncle Russ

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« Reply #3 on: September 11, 2008, 09:34:25 PM »
Jerry, a bit off subject, but in reference to Rit Dye....

I am the first to admit that I have a problem trying to dye anything, especially brown, the color with which I have had the most failures!

Now my wife, she who knows everything about everything worth knowing, has informed me that the dye we get today is not the same dye we were getting twenty plus years ago...apparently she read somewhere that the additives we have in our water today, which are all somehow for the betterment of our health ....has caused a need to change the original formula, or older formula, and if we use "pure rain water" we will see better results.

Now, what I'm thinking is that principal may somehow apply to walnut hulls....Don't know, just thinking out loud.

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Offline jbullard1

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« Reply #4 on: September 11, 2008, 09:52:56 PM »
You may have a point Unc Russ
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Offline Gobbler

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« Reply #5 on: September 12, 2008, 12:41:43 AM »
Just my experience but Mitch has hit the nail on the head for Walnut dye with salt and vinegar solution as well as the time
in the dye. I have dyed quite a bit and have left it in the dye pot for 2 weeks sometimes. I use green walnuts and slice the hull with a knife then boil the walnut for a while and let cool then add clothing. I also find that some of my best shades have been some of the worst looking and smelling dye pots. You just skim the mold and yuk off the top of the solution and throw stuff back in. I have a pot full since last fall that I still use. hope this helps. I suppose I should change it some day, but it's a little like Elk Camp Coffee you just keep adding more to it  :lol: Also not that it is perfect but my blanket shirt in my avatar started out a white wool hospital blanket (military surplus)
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Offline Captchee

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« Reply #6 on: September 12, 2008, 09:38:55 AM »
my first question would be , are your pants 100% cotton ?.

 next would be did you use green walnut hulls  or dried ?
 green hulls will  dye  just about anything   even your hands but the color can be darker  from my experience.
 I would also agree with what gobbler and the others have said .
 We used to have an old porcelain  canning pot that my dad kept his  walnut die in for traps  .
 What he would do is add paraffin to the boiling water . Once it was all liquefied, we would dip our traps .
 This would  take off the  human sent and wax the trap all in one process.
 When this mix cooled , the paraffin would then cool on the top    of the liquid. Mom would then break it up and put it back in the shelf  tell the next time . She would then add another hand full of green walnuts  and just leave the pot sitting out side .
 The thing would  have in a few days , all kinds of stuff  in it ., bugs , mould , you name it. As I recall it smelled to high heaven  and got pretty thick . Something like real good coffee
 But in no time if you dipped anything in it , that item even metal would come out  almost black   .

 if you have some old iron laying around , it wont hirt to toss a peice of it in as well

 What you need to do is soak your pants   for a few days . Take them out and rinse them in cold water . If the color isn’t ark enough , soak them again . When you reach the depth of color you think want , go a little darker  because when they dry  the color can lighten up some ..
 Now what we do is miz up a cold water , vinegar and salt  mix  and rinse the item in it . This sets the dye . Pretty good .
 Now let the item drip dry . don’t wash it in a machine. Machines are designed to scrub cloths . You don’t want the item scrubbed, just let it  dry naturally..

 Later once dry  you need to wash the item a couple times with a genital product like woolite    . Do it by hand and the colors will last longer .
 The other thing to keep in mind is natural dyes often fade over time with regular washing

Offline jbullard1

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« Reply #7 on: September 12, 2008, 10:02:41 AM »
I  used dry walnut hulls
Need to get out and round up a few green ones
Thanks for the help
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Offline Ridge

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« Reply #8 on: September 13, 2008, 09:34:34 AM »
Natural dyeing is sort of a hobby of mine.

First, don't try to dye new clothing. The dye solution wants to run off of it. You should wear/wash the heck out of anything you plan to dye. It will take a better color.

Second...why all the cold dye baths? That may stain your clothing, but it won't dye them.

Just wash those britches about 10 or 12 times and then boil some walnut hulls in a cast iron pot. Let the solution cool some and then steep the pants for about an hour.

If you don't have a cast iron pot, just throw some old rusty pieces of metal into the solution as you are boiling it. All you are doing is adding a mordant.

Offline Captchee

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« Reply #9 on: September 13, 2008, 10:28:55 AM »
i believe its because  the theory  in it is that hot water opens up the  material to accept the dye  . cold water will not  and thus only rinses of the dye that’s on the surface  of the material .

 While I was in the service , I had a chance to tour Japan for a couple weeks .  A couple of the smaller villages at that time still dyed silks  in the old way . I remember the rivers below their villages would run the colors of the dye’s  for some ways . It was very interesting  and wonderful to see .

My wifes mother  told me that as a child she often helped  in dying  silks for kimonos  and such  .
 She lived with us  through her last years  and when I dyed my  Alasdulo, I ask her advice
My mother also dyed her Quills  much the same way . Hot water  for applying the color and cold for the rinse.
I dyed my Alasdulo with raspberries  doing the same process I  described . that’s how she showed me
 It came out a nice red  and the color has lasted  some 5 or 6 years  now .
Im sure there are other ways , but that’s just how I was shown to do it . it worked for me

Offline Captchee

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« Reply #10 on: September 13, 2008, 10:52:55 AM »
my wife gave me the name for  this . its called "Yuzen-nagashi "
so i looked it up


Yuzen-nagashi :to wash the paste
and excessive dye out with cold water

Offline Gobbler

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« Reply #11 on: September 13, 2008, 11:00:58 AM »
Ridge
I would agree with boiling also,  just didn't state it that way after I read my original post again the only thing I would caution is be careful with leather and new material as has been stated before. I found out how to make a set of leggings for a toddler out of my 12 year sons pair :shock: anyway I beleive you just have to work with it a little to perfect your own way.
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Offline Loyalist Dave

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« Reply #12 on: September 15, 2008, 08:00:35 AM »
Quote
if you have some old iron laying around , it wont hirt to toss a peice of it in as well.
 Quite Right!

Folks please note "one mordant does not fit all".  A Mordant, an additive to help the dye take and to make it more colorfast, is often determined by the type of dye and the fabric which is died.  Now the salt will work a bit for some natural dyes ( and it works great on Rit Dye - a chemical dye), and the vinegar is good for wool to keep it color fast, but...,

Walnut hulls work best with iron oxide.  An iron kettle with the hulls boiled at least a day works well ;  letting the cloth sit for several days works even better.   IF you don't have an iron kettle, not to worry, take some 4-0 steel wool, and boil it (removes residual oils) and let it sit in a mason jar of water, or water and vinegar to rust.  When so rusty you really can't see through the water to the other side, boil your hulls and add the rust solution.  (You may want to strain out any leftover bits of metal as these may spot your fabric).  Should work well.

LD
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Offline Mitch

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« Reply #13 on: September 15, 2008, 01:57:40 PM »
well, I guess the way I've been dyeing dang near everything(wool, linen, cotton,leather,etc) "theoretically" doesn't work according to some...and I've cold dyed EVERYTHING with walnut hulls or hickory,pecan hulls.....y'all can dye how you choose, but if you haven't tried the way I suggest, don't tell me it won't work....
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Offline Captchee

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« Reply #14 on: September 15, 2008, 03:08:55 PM »
Quote from: "Mitch"
well, I guess the way I've been dyeing dang near everything(wool, linen, cotton,leather,etc) "theoretically" doesn't work according to some...and I've cold dyed EVERYTHING with walnut hulls or hickory,pecan hulls.....y'all can dye how you choose, but if you haven't tried the way I suggest, don't tell me it won't work....

 i dont think thats whats being said mitch . i think in fact  what is being said is that there are many ways  to make  things work  ;)