Traditional Muzzleloading Association

Craftsmanship => Traditional Archery and Accoutrements => Topic started by: FG1 on July 31, 2008, 05:05:10 PM

Title: Arrow shafts
Post by: FG1 on July 31, 2008, 05:05:10 PM
I just ordered a semi finish hickory bow kit and would like to know if there are wooden shafting in 33-34" lengths available. I bought some years ago from a place in myrtle point oregon but they are no longer in buisness.
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Post by: BEAVERMAN on August 01, 2008, 12:52:31 AM
Frank, port orford cedar shafts are what most of the guys out here use, there is a supplier in Oregon somewhere cuz thats where there coming from, send a pm to Fletcher, he knows the place, beav
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Post by: Fletcher on August 01, 2008, 09:39:52 AM
Rose City Archery in Mrytle Point is the only supplier of Port Orford Cedar that I know.  However I think they only make shafts to 32" and do not sell direct to the public.

There is a hex- laminated shaft (I think the wood is fir) that is good and I believe they do make longer shafts.  I will try to find the website for you.

OBTW, I would guess that if you really shoot a 34" arrow you must be at least 6'11" tall?

If you can get by with 32"  pm me - plenty in stock.
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Post by: Longhunter on August 19, 2008, 07:56:25 AM
FGI,

Why do you need such long shafts?
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Post by: FG1 on August 19, 2008, 11:29:17 AM
Ron, I'm 6'6" and with arms extended forward with palms together I measure 33" from chest to end of fingertips . I thought this was the old standard for measuring for arrow length ????
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Post by: Longhunter on August 19, 2008, 01:02:57 PM
How long is the bow you've got coming. A hickory bow, all wood will have to be 7' long to take a 33" draw or it won't last long.

I'm 6'1 and when I measure the way you did, it comes to 28 1/2"...BUT,...I cut my arrows to 27" and my draw length is 26".

I think your going to have to shorten your draw as much as you can and not stretch out to your full potential. You can do this by anchoring at the front of your face instead of back by the side of the face. Also bend your bow arm a little instead of having it straight.

#1 it's hard to get arrows that long, #2 the longer the shaft, the weaker the spine (stiffness). Example, a 40# bow with a 33" arrow would need shafts spined at 60#. #3 with a long draw you'll need a long bow, over 6 feet.

It will be to your advantage if you can shorten your draw as much as possible and still be comfortable shooting.

Keep us posted with your progress.
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Post by: FG1 on August 19, 2008, 02:38:02 PM
Ron , unstrung its 6' all hickory floor tillered stave .They sent some linen to glue on for backing .
With compound bow my anchor was tip of index finger at corner of mouth . Sounds like I will have to change anchor to thumb knuckle to corner of mouth.
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Post by: Longhunter on August 19, 2008, 06:14:51 PM
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Sounds like I will have to change anchor to thumb knuckle to corner of mouth.
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That might be a good idea to start
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Post by: Fletcher on December 02, 2008, 02:58:44 PM
FG1 - did you get that bow and the shafts worked out?

I just did a couple hickory staves and backed with linen.  I use Tite Bond II for the glue and it works well and looks 'natural'.

When the bows are done I will use a light stain over all and then coat the whole thing with several coats of Tung oil.  That makes for a nice finish and the linen does add strength and improves the cast a bit.

Did you decide on arrow shaft length?
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Post by: oneshot72 on December 02, 2008, 03:19:17 PM
FGI, just going from a compound to a longbow will probably shorten your draw 1 or 2 inches. Best thing to do is just mark off a long arrow like a yard stick and have someone stand beside you and they can read off the marks to let you know how much you are actually drawing. Mike
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Post by: Voyageur on December 02, 2008, 06:22:44 PM
8)
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Post by: FG1 on December 02, 2008, 10:57:33 PM
Havent had a chance as yet . I've been pretty busy. I plan on getting after it this winter to keep from going stir crazy  :lol: I found plans online for making a tiller tree that I need to make also . Is there any other specialty items I'll need in the way of tools other than what I use for gun building ?
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Post by: Riley/MN on December 02, 2008, 11:07:29 PM
Quote from: "FG1"
Ron, I'm 6'6" and with arms extended forward with palms together I measure 33" from chest to end of fingertips ...

Sure look shorter in your avatar ;)
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Post by: Fletcher on December 03, 2008, 01:14:38 PM
If you are going to make a bow you need a draw knife, spokeshave and good rasp like a #49 Nickolson - probably a good bandsaw and combo belt/disc sander will speed things up a lot unless you have plenty of time and want to do it all the 'old way'

Oh a good shave horse too.

For arrows you need a good fletching tool, taper tool, and I use dip tubes for laquer coating and a Young Feather Burner to trim fletching from full cuts rather than using die cuts.  I get a more 'primitive' look that way.
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Post by: FG1 on December 03, 2008, 02:06:01 PM
Thanks Fletcher ! Looks like I'm set for tools for the bow . I have a fletch jig but not the other items for arrows.
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Post by: Christiaan on December 05, 2008, 02:20:26 AM
I've just ordered some laminated birch shafts from 3rivers.  So I will try my hand at arrow building soon.  I will either give up or grow into a great learning experience.  Friends here in Africa suggested I try the laminated shafts first because they are easier to learn the basics.

I might ask a lot of questions here in the future.
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Post by: Fletcher on December 05, 2008, 10:16:23 AM
Since I have ben able to get the Port Orford I have not tried them, but I hear they are straight and fly true.  The same is for the 'hex' shafts made from Fir.  I am not sure how the exterior surface looks on these as opposed to a straight grained turned shaft.  At least it looks like wood!