OK, Mr. Bull, here are some answers from a volume producer of bags.
I have always enjoyed working mostly with oil-tan leather.
Way back when, like almost 50 years ago, my first bags were somewhat crude affairs, I think I used to make my patterns out of file folders. I really did not make a lot of bags. Then fast forward to 1983 and I bought October Country which was delivered to us on New Year's Day, 1984. I think we had about 8 styles of bags and all the patterns were made out of 1/4" plywood. This worked OK for quite a while, until one day I bought an old mechanical "clicker" press, and what a beast that was. That was the start of going from wood patterns to steel cutting dies. Seems like we spent a small fortune buying dies for each piece of the bags. Interestingly enough, the place we bought the most dies from was a company that also made hardware for caskets.
Then sometime in the early 1990's when NAFTA went into effect, the sewing businesses located in North Idaho and Eastern Washington relocated to Mexico, leaving behind a lot of equipment. We were able to upgrade from that monster clicker to a more modern hydraulic one. That was sweet! Oh, and a couple more sewing machines and lots of industrial steel shelving and I forget what all else we were able to buy at very good prices.
And so it went, until 2005, when we sold October Country. I have not sewn a single stitch since then.
So, sir, that is my story and I am sticking to it.
John (Bigsmoke)