Traditional Muzzleloading Association

Craftsmanship => Gun Building and Repair => Topic started by: RckyMtn Joe on February 20, 2009, 12:02:42 AM

Title: Some Help Needed Please?
Post by: RckyMtn Joe on February 20, 2009, 12:02:42 AM

I removed the barrel and cylinder from my '51 Navy Colt Repro and it was working just fine.  After I cleaned and reassembled the gun, the cylinder binds.  I can remove the wedge and this of course allows the barrel to loosen just a bit---then it works fine again.  Replace the wedge and it binds up.  What am I doing wrong?

This is a repro from Cabelas---made by Pietta (sp?) from Italy---.36 caliber of course.

Joe

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Post by: Bigsmoke on February 20, 2009, 12:07:30 AM

Sounds like you are tapping the wedge in a bit too tight.  Don't set it quite so hard.

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Post by: RckyMtn Joe on February 20, 2009, 05:34:49 PM

I understand--but I can't even get the wedge anywhere close to being seated before the bind-up occurs---If I left the wedge where it allows the cylinder to rotate, the first shot would likely deposit it in the weeds about 20 yards from my position.

How does the screw over the wedge slot affect it?  What is its puprose?  Anyone?

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Post by: RckyMtn Joe on February 20, 2009, 05:35:19 PM

Purpose even---forgive my misspelling LOL.

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Post by: Three Hawks on February 21, 2009, 02:16:12 AM

Quote from: "RckyMtn Joe"

Purpose even---forgive my misspelling LOL.

That screw is there to prevent loss of the wedge.  If you drove the wedge past the screw, you likely warped something.  You will need to look closesly at how all the parts interrelate with each other.  By closely, I mean with a 6X jeweler's loupe.

If your revolver is brass framed, you probably now have a really cool paperweight.

Before you decide to burn my barn, look at the front of the frame where the alignment pins are.  Make sure that all the mating surfaces are clean, and nothing is bent.

Good luck,

Three Hawks

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Post by: RckyMtn Joe on February 22, 2009, 05:29:05 PM

Nope---not a brass frame, and I didn't drive it past the screw, so I am good so far LOL.  I'll dig out my small glass and take a look, and thanks.

Joe

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Post by: Three Hawks on February 22, 2009, 07:39:33 PM

If everything is Kosher as far as you can tell, one way to ease the tightness of the wedge is either to reduce it's width or increase the length of the slot.   Look hard at the cylinder pin slot and the edge of the wedge where they meet.  If there are no burrs there you can file either  the edge of the wedge, or the thin face of the slot where the wedge's edge bears against it.  One or two thousandths  will  allow the wedge to go in much further.  GO EASY here as catastrophe, (That miserable Greek SOB) awaits.  Most times, there's something in that slot which has no business being there and it's eviction will solve the problem.  If you decide to use a file, purify yourself in the smoke of the holy sweetgrass, sacrifice an elected democrat, preferably slowly, then go ahead with judicious reluctance. One careful file stroke, test fit, another file stroke, test fit.  Rinse and repeat.  

Three Hawks

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Post by: Many Hats on February 22, 2009, 10:20:46 PM

"If you decide to use a file, purify yourself in the smoke of the holy sweetgrass, sacrifice an elected democrat, preferably slowly"

 Three Hawks,

 I almost choked on my coffee, and spit it across the room on that one.    I've GOT to remember that !