Traditional Muzzleloading Association
Shooting Traditional Firearms and Weapons => General Interest => Topic started by: burch on February 21, 2009, 11:04:21 PM
-
We need a forum topic on casting round balls. I`ve always wanted to do that but have never casted any lead.
Burch
-
Here's a good start:
http://home.insightbb.com/~bspen/runningball.html (http://home.insightbb.com/~bspen/runningball.html)
Mario
-
burch, what questions do you have about casting. Many of us cast our own here. What ever you want to know you'll get more than one answer from which you can pick and choose what you want to use.
-
Here's a good start:
http://home.insightbb.com/~bspen/runningball.html (http://home.insightbb.com/~bspen/runningball.html)
Mario
I like it
-
burch, what questions do you have about casting. Many of us cast our own here. What ever you want to know you'll get more than one answer from which you can pick and choose what you want to use.
I just wanted to keep it simple. I really like the link Mario posted on casting in camp.
-
I`ve checked Dixie`s catalog and they don`t offer much on traditional equipment. Where else can you find equipment ?
-
I found some at TOW
-
You might want to check out this place.
http://www.smilingfoxforgellc.com/guns4.asp
Is there something specific you are looking for?
For bag moulds, I would contact Rapine. I don't have their address or phone number. They don't have a WEB address.
-
We need a forum topic on casting round balls. I`ve always wanted to do that but have never casted any lead.
Burch
Burch, it's a lot of fun and it's easy. My son and I cast round balls Friday night. You can get pure lead cheap on Ebay. The shipping is cheap too since the post office introduced the flat rate shipping boxes. You really don't need a lot of stuff. I would suggest, being a beginner, that you purchase a Lee electric lead pot and a Lee round ball mold. They work just fine and they are real bargins. Of course you might want to buy a period bag mold but when you are in a hurry the Lee does the trick. It is also low maintinence. I've had great luck with them. I've purchased $100 molds that didn't cast as well as the cheapo Lee molds. They heat up quick and you don't have to keep them oiled when you don't use them. They also come with wooden handles. Lyman and RCBS don't. Their handles ain't cheap either.
All you need is pure Lead (do not use wheel weights for round balls), an electric lead pot, a mold, an old spoon (to skim with), a box of wooden matches and a candle. That's it! You'll be good to go. You don't need a ladle (dipper) if you have the Lee electric pot when casting round balls. Casting heavy bullets ( like for a Sharps Rifle) is a different story.
I'm sure that anyone on the forum will be happy to answer any questions that you might have. I'm always available since I am retired. Feel free to contact me any time.
-
My buddy and I bought a few things this weekend and was accually casting some balls and hollow base bullets for his rifle. We just got a RB mold, bullet mold, casting ladel, one of those pots, and some lead. After some trial and error we finally came up some that turned out pretty decent. We used Bore Butter for flux. I`m not all that worried about casting 100 balls at a time I just wanted a bag mold and ladel for camping.
-
Hey that's great!
-
Does anyone use different melting pots other than the ones you get from the casting companys. I`m just trying to be cheap here.
-
I don't think you'll find anything of better value than a Lee.
-
Does anyone use different melting pots other than the ones you get from the casting companys. I`m just trying to be cheap here. 
Burch, i use a small lodge cast iron pot, available at sportsmans wharehouse or any other camping type store, put it on an old coleman stove ans start to melting, the laddle I use has is a lee with the enclosed pour spot on one end, cant get much cheaper than that.
-
I use an old pot I found in the garage and either put it on the propane grill or a coleman stove or something of the like.
-
Copper is preferred, as the lead will not stick to copper pots as it will to a steel pot.
-
Copper is preferred, as the lead will not stick to copper pots as it will to a steel pot.
Wont stick to a cast iron unseasoned pot either, when Im done casting for the day, i fill the pot again, let it cool overnight, go out and turn the pot over and I have a perfect pot size ingot to start with next time.
-
I think I can get a cast pot from Wally World
-
Something to consider. By the time you buy a pot, a dipper, and a stove with fuel, you can just get an electric pot and plug it in.
Mind you, you still need a pot to smelt your lead into usable ingots. Only clean lead should be put into a bottom pour pot.
-
I already have a coleman stove.
-
another sayety tip here, if your going to add any weight like fishing weights to it, cut off ALL brass or any other metals before you add to the hot pot, else you'll wind up with mount vesuvius spitting and slpattering hot lead, not pretty!
-
My first pot was one a friend made at work. It's a 4" length of 4" exhaust tubing welded to a 1/4" plate bottom. When I started, I used an old stainless steel serving spoon with a pouring lip I bent into one side as a ladle. The handle got hot in short order so I rivetted scales onto the handle like you would find on a butcher knife. I heated it on a coleman stove.
After you get comfortable casting, you will almost certainly go for more and better tools. The Lee 20 lb bottom pour is an excellent value and Lee's customer support is superb.
If you do as I do and lurk in flea markets and ante-kew malls you will find things you can't live without. Lots of old plumber's furnaces, crucibles and ladles, the odd bullet mold and once in a while a gun the seller has no clue about.
By the way, excellent fluxes are parrafin and candle wax. Crushed charcoal floated on your melt is good too, as is clean kitty litter.
Three Hawks
-
By the way, excellent fluxes are parrafin and candle wax. Crushed charcoal floated on your melt is good too, as is clean kitty litter.
I second that notion! 
Kitty Litter is one of the very best fluxes on the market, and it leaves your pot nice and shinny. This is very important to those who cast a lot.
FWIW: Marvelux, as sold by Brownells, is quite likely the most used flux on the market, and I suspect it does have some good characteristics. However, it is also one of the worst for turning the pot into a nightmare to get clean and that takes valuable time away from actual casting.
Uncle Russ...
-
Just so I have this straight, kitty litter is used as a flux instead of wax?
-
From what I understand, anything that contains a lot of carbon can be used. I've even heard of used motor oil working well. Stirring the melt with a very dry wooden dowel works well because of the carbon produced at that temp, and the fact that you get it all the way to the bottom of the pot.
I'd try to avoid used kitty litter though.
-
Watch out for that Wally World cast iron. It has some chemicals in it and I don't know how long or how bad it might smoke/stink. I really think you would be better with a real Lyman pot, or go to a plumbing supply and get a plumbers cast iron pot. I have one of those - it is much bigger than the Lyman and I use it for melting down bigger scrap. I then pour the lead into bars using my Lyman ingot mould (4 @ 1lb bars)
-
Copper is preferred, as the lead will not stick to copper pots as it will to a steel pot.
Wont stick to a cast iron unseasoned pot either, when Im done casting for the day, i fill the pot again, let it cool overnight, go out and turn the pot over and I have a perfect pot size ingot to start with next time.
Didn't know that! +1
-
I'd try to avoid used kitty litter though.
:rotf
If it has been used / recycled, then I would certainly avoid it too. However, since in it's out of the bag form, it is no more than clay and it works like a charm.
Bob, Ya gotta try it some time!
In fact, knowing you, I would bet a nickle against a hole in doughnut that you already use it.
FWIW: And I certainly don't want to get off the subject here.....
However, for the folks that still have a lot of doubt about the use of simple kitty litter, and if you're still interested in getting a good flux, and pouring a really good projectile, you might want to Google up Glenn Fritzell of IHMSA cast boolit fame, who can give a great technical reason on how & why it works so well.
Unfortunately I don't have that link handy.
Also it's important to know why you need a good flux. Is it for binding alloys, or separating / un-binding certain alloys?
Do you know if you are using pure lead.... which is extremely hard to find, or are you using "pure lead" from the junk yard (which is seldom pure) or perhaps a mixture of alloys such as found in common wheel weights?
Or, which is the case most of the time, or are you just fluxing because someone said that is what you're supposed to do???
You can easily get by without knowing any of this, but if you want to cast the best boolit possible then you may want to look a little deeper into this subject....it is a wonderful hobby, all in its own, and it does add a certain little something to the fact that you know, and made, what your shooting.
Uncle Russ...
-
Once again, I'll say this. As Russ says PURE lead is almost impossible to find. If you can scratch it with your fingernail, call it lead. I have skimmed the dross off of my melt sometimes and found the remainder to be soft enough for ML projectiles.
The dross is very toxic, however and must be handled as if it were cyanide. I double bag my dross in heavy freezer bags and put it in the garbage. I really don't like having it around the house.
Laugh as you will at kittly litter, it really cleans up your pot. Dunno what's in it, don't care. It's incredibly cheap and it works.
I love cheap.
Three Hawks
-
Laugh as you will at kittly litter, it really cleans up your pot. Dunno what's in it, don't care. It's incredibly cheap and it works.
I love cheap.
Three Hawks
Yep ol 3Hawks resembles that remark!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :rotf
-
which scent do you use? :hey-hey :toast
-
OK, I have been watching this for a couple days, could some one please go into some details about how to flux, When to flux, how much to flux....any and everything about fluxing. and any other details about running balls.
details, I need details
-
Ahhhh the fine art of fluxing. :hairy
-
Griz, and other interested parties, there's another board that at least Russ and I frequent, maybe more, that is all about casting lead bullets (though they spell it Boolits. If there's anything you want or need to learn about casting and more, you'll find it there.
It might be better just to send you there, rather than try and type it all out, cause I don't type that good or fast.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/ (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/)
As far as fluxing goes, a pea sized chunk of wax works well, as does various other materials. I sometimes use well dried sawdust as well as kitty litter. Add it to a pot of hot lead and stir. It'll probably ignite, so it's just easier to put a match to it and burn off the smoke ahead of time. Stir it good, and then scrape off the sludge. You probably want to do this at the start and then half way through a 10# pot.
Fluxing has a duel purpose, to help the alloy mixed, and to get the impurities to float to the top. Myself, I feel that the stirring brings more crap to the top than the flux, but I still do it.
If you have more questions, feel free to ask.
-
Like most other things. Casting ball can be as cheap or expensive as you care to make it.I prefer to keep things cheap and simple. For what reason I don't know , but casting up 50 -100 ballls is pretty relaxing. I've had the best luck using beeswax as a flux.
-
OK, I have been watching this for a couple days, could some one please go into some details about how to flux, When to flux, how much to flux....any and everything about fluxing. and any other details about running balls.
details, I need details :?
Glenn's writings seem to be more down to earth, and easier to understand. )
http://www.lasc.us/FryxellFluxing.htm (http://www.lasc.us/FryxellFluxing.htm)
Uncle Russ...
-
I found my bag mold. TOW has several. So where do I find a nice traditional ladle ? I`ve seen the folding type and that`s a pretty good idea. Something like the one in the article " Let`s Run Some Ball " is also pretty cool lookin` or maybe something forged. I`d like one for camping so it`ll have to fit in my possible`s bag. I know some here has to be making this stuff.
-
Would this be some what like what you are looking for?
http://www.dixiegunworks.com/product_info.php?products_id=8091
-
Would this be some what like what you are looking for?
http://www.dixiegunworks.com/product_info.php?products_id=8091
That`s the folding type i`ve seen. Not too bad but a hand forged one would really be neat.
-
Something more like this?
http://www.smilingfoxforgellc.com/details.asp?id=90
I have a similar one I got from Rapine but you have to deal with them either on the phone or via snail mail.
-
Something more like this?
http://www.smilingfoxforgellc.com/details.asp?id=90
I have a similar one I got from Rapine but you have to deal with them either on the phone or via snail mail.
Now that I do like. Is that handle hollow for a green stick ?
-
It looks kind of on the crude side to me. I got this one from Rapine. It is made of Copper and holds enough lead to case two .610 balls.
[albumimg:2l3afipt]3714[/albumimg:2l3afipt]
[albumimg:2l3afipt]3715[/albumimg:2l3afipt]
I found their address
Rapine Bullet Mould Mfg. Co.
9503 Landis Lane
East Greenville, Pa 18041
215-679-5413
-
It looks kind of on the crude side to me. I got this one from Rapine. It is made of Copper and holds enough lead to case two .610 balls.
[albumimg:2ug1wx3u]3714[/albumimg:2ug1wx3u]
[albumimg:2ug1wx3u]3715[/albumimg:2ug1wx3u]
I found their address
Rapine Bullet Mould Mfg. Co.
9503 Landis Lane
East Greenville, Pa 18041
215-679-5413
have no problem with it looking crude and that`s pretty much like the one I saw. It also looks small enough for a bag ladle. I like it.