Traditional Muzzleloading Association
Shooting Traditional Firearms and Weapons => General Interest => Topic started by: mark davidson on March 05, 2009, 02:07:43 PM
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I got a Tennessee type rifle with a heavily curved buttplate that is killing me. The rifle is .62 cal and I shot it about fifteen times yesterday evening with heavy loads and the top of my shoulder looks like it was attacked with a mining pick!! I am a pretty big ole country boy and thought I was tough but daaaanggit!! Can I grind the sadistic horns off this steel buttplate? Any of you all ever altered one of these things so it is a bit more pleasant to shoot. I finished off my range session with a towel between the stock and my shoulder but I would sure like to be able to blast with the thing without the towel. :-)
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Mark...Try placing the butt just to the outside of your shoulder instead of square on your shoulder (as with a modern type rifle). Some folks will pull them down even farther...kinda at the top of their bicep. That should keep the pointed ends from digging in.
What load are you shooting?
Al
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yep, what TwoSteps said....shooting that curved butt is "different" than shooting a shotgun or modern stocked rifles...
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Yepper what they said :lt th
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Men, Respectfully, I am shooting 180 grains of 2F in .62 cal. I am NOT going to shoot this thing on my arm/bicept! Not to fly in the face of tradition here but I will grind the whole point off the plate and have it look like Hades before I settle in for a day of heavy loads. That top point gouges me when I hold it too low and the bottom point gouges me when I hold it higher. Something has gotta be physically done to this thing. With a light load it is fine. With a heavy one it is punishment! A .458 win mag does not bother me. 3 1/2" heavy duck loads all morning are fine. This pointed butt thing has a ring of bruises and swollen spots on my shoulder that caused my wife to gasp!! Gotta do something here besides just move the pain around. :-()
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Listen to what more experienced shooters are telling you. Hold it out on the arm more. They know.
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8) "Doc"
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I think if it wer me , Id find a flatter butt plate and put it on . Sounds like too much gun for the style of butt plate .
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you're not "just moving the pain around"...do a little research into historical shooting styles and you will see what we are talking about....no one here that's offered advice is trying to hurt you further....you can try what's offered as good advice or do what you "think" is right...your gun, your money...but "we" do know what works....
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Mark, that crescent butt isn't styled to fit your shoulder, it's SUPPOSED to fit around your upper arm...
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Uhhh... yeah. What these guys said! Trust me, they've been at it a long time with bigger bore guns than that! They know their stuff. :shake
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mark, I would have to agree with the others here. These curved butts are NOT made to fit the shoulder. That dosn't mean to say that you may have to re-cnnfigure the butt to work properly if you have exceptionally large arms and shoulders. This is one reason for having a custom fit when having a gun built.
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If you don't want to shoot off your arm (which is what that buttplate is designed for) take off the plate, smooth the wood and put a flat piece of metal or horn on the butt. It is a "backwoods" Southern rifle, correct? Them good old boys were the Kings of making it work with what they had. Many did not even have buttplates ( I'm not reccomending that tho). But in the end, it is your rifle, do what makes you happy.
Bruce
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Removed comment
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The buttplate DOES not go clear out on the bicep - do like the old timers did who shot these big bores - raise your right arm so the elbow is level with your shoulder - you can then put the plate just to the outside of the shoulder pocket - trust me and the others with this - I've shot 8 bore muzzleloaders like that and no pain. Do a lot of dry firing and mounting the gun in this position and once you get used to it it will become second nature...
First of course let the bruising go away.........then lower that 180 grain load to 140 or so at most - IMO there's just no need for that much powder for any game on this continent and FWIW I've hunted moose, bear, and elk for about 40 years with a .54 or .58 and have taken shoulder shots a lot especially on bear.......
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Mark are you shooting off-hand or off a benc/rest? The cresent butt is best suited for standing off-hand. and as cb said if you keep your elbow as level to your shoulder as possible it helps.
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180 grains of 2F--why?
Assuming a .610 RB at 340 grains that's 520 grains of mass exiting the muzzle at what? 1800-2000 fps? No bloody wonder you hurt. Shorten your loads to about 1000-1100 fps and hurt the target, not your self.
If you insist on heavy loads such as that, consider a Jeager with a shotgun style buttplate.
I was taught to shoot by my insane uncle, a WWII era Marine DI. If he had ever seen my right elbow fall below shoulder level while shooting off hand, he'd have knocked me half silly. Same if he saw my left elbow anywhere but directly below the fore end. (He was kind of like R. Lee Ermy except not so wussy.)
Just sayin' is all.
Three Hawks
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as others have said , those type of but plates are ment to shoot from the arm not the shoulder .
what that means is what CB said . IE in the mit of the arm and outside of the bone of your shoulder . some also are smaller . these are ment to be shot alittle firther down the arm .
I am also courious as to why the heavy load ?
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I think guns of that style were typicaly of a much smaller bore as well I have not had one of the crece3nt dtocked guns for many years I found the wide flat buttstocksd like the Early Virginia by Chambers otr the Fusil from Tulle to handle heavy loads better should I choose to shoot them which is ratrely as my type of hunting finds moderate loads sufficient. the wider stocked guns allow a diffewrent standing position to put the recoil where it does the least harm, I don't know what to advise as I have not had to over come such a situation, I don't know if the typical stance with the crecent buttplate will reduce the recoli as much as needed, I would think a pad of some sort on the gun and maybe on the jacket may be the answere, good luck maybe some more helpfull replys will follow.
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I am shooting 180 grains of 2F in .62 cal.
There's your problem. Try 1/2 that much of 3F. You're using way too much powder.
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Quote:
I am shooting 180 grains of 2F in .62 cal.
There's your problem. Try 1/2 that much of 3F. You're using way too much powder.
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I shot 200gr's of 2FG in my .62 Jaeger when hunting moose. That heavy of a load of coarse wasn't needed to kill a moose but at the time I wanted to increase my range. As it turned out it may have helped because the ball penetrated full length of the bull.
It gave me a pretty good "push" but the wide flat butt on my Jaeger is pretty comfortable.
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My first flint lock rifle was a Tennessee style as well. Like every one else here has said they fit on the upper arm, not the shoulder.
I hunt with a .54 now and I use 55-60grains as a dear hunting load and I've never had a deer run more than 50 yards after being hit.
If you want to shoot 180 grains, it's your shoulder. but IMHO, it's too much powder for anything east or west of the Mississippi. I might consider a heavy load like that if I was in Alaska and had a chance of running into a grizzly, but not in the lower 48. but that's my two cents.
good shooting!
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Mark,
Possibly I missed it, but what is the rate of twist on your rifle? And how did you decide to start at 180 grains? I think if we have some basics here, we can figure this out.
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Good morning men. Thanks for the information. I am sometimes controversial but never that hard headed. I will defer to your advice and experience and try this bruiser out on my arm a bit.
I respect all of you and appreciate your opinions. Ron LeClair in particular has been an inspiration to me and has my real attention as a credible source who has killed LOTS of game with big bores and heavy charges. Many of you others may have done so as well; I just do not know it yet. I managed to whack fifteen or so whitetails in the last two seasons with a .54 with very "mediocre" results in terms of penetration and "put down and stay down." Personally, I like big bores and I am not opposed to recoil; I like performance. I figure if Ron's 200 grain load in .62 worked that great on moose then something similar has got to be good on whitetail deer and about anything else I want to shoot. I got a lot to learn but I am trying so be patient and thanks for helping.
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I use 140 gr of 3F Goex in my 62. I have killed deer, antelope, elk and moose with it. I use that charge because it shoots best. I worked up and down between 100 and 170 grains and the load of 140 shoot the tightest group.
:shock: But then again I live east of the Mississippi. The biggest dear I ever shot field dressed at 235 and the load I was using was more than enough to bring him down.
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Wyosmith, Thanks so much. That post is one of the most informative and honest explainations I have read. All the deer that I have shot and the ones my hunting buddy shot with .54s were with Hornady factory round balls .535s with patch and 100 grains of 2F. We chose the 100grain load cause it gave good trajectory and good accuracy. The results were almost 100% dismal with only three or so exits out of close to 20 deer shot! I do not think I have gone in error in my move to the .62 cal. ball. I can cast a hunting ball from pure linotype if you think it will be better. Surely with .62 caliber and the heavier ball and enough powder I can start shooting all the way through even the shoulders of our relatively small whitetail deer. (Note: I already know yall's thoughts on not shooting the shoulder but I simply disagree and for my purposes need to be able to break both shoulders and get an exit.) Wyosmith, thanks again for the moose story and the information. I for sure have elk on my mind for hopefully the near future!
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I agree 100% with what Steve has said about cast round ball.
The lowly wheel weight is a God send for casters, and shooters.
The average BHN on WW will run an honest 11 or 12+ while pure lead "supposedly" will only yield 6...........a BIG difference.
Just my thoughts.
Uncle Russ...
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I agree 100% with what Steve has said about cast round ball.
The lowly wheel weight is a God send for casters, and shooters.
The average BHN on WW will run an honest 11 or 12+ while pure lead "supposedly" will only yield 6...........a BIG difference.
Just my thoughts.
Uncle Russ...
:applaud :horse
And I can get all them I want for FREE
Just have ti clean them up and start casting
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I have to agree with Mark, this has been a really informative post! All sorts of good information in here. I haven't used WW for my hunting round balls, but I'm going to be casting some up for sure now and set them aside for hunting this fall.
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Also, steve, do you have anymore pictures of this gun:
(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k255/szihn/German%20guns/000_0189.jpg)
That's a beautiful design! I may incorporate some of that into my new 54.
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This is what I prefered having against my shoulder when I was shooting stout loads with rilfes, I still have the wide buttplates on my smoothbores but use a lot less powder now days
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v475/ttttg/lanc5.jpg)
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This has been a very interesting and "informative " discussion. although it wandered a little off corse from the basic theme, I think a disscussion like this can bring out muc vital information
It appears we wound up talking about the killing effect of 100% pure lead projectiles to those containing alloy that keeps the expantion to a much lessor degree. I know many here also do now or have in the past been high-power cartridge rifle shooters. Before the high speed camera became a factor in external ballistics. The experimenting was on water jugs,jello blocks ,phone books, pine boards and animal flesh. Some of the pioneers in this field were Jack o'conners Col. atkins Elmer Kieth and a few other old guys. Both the goverment and ammunition producers paid close attention to what theres old guys were doing. They would have an idea about penetration and expansion and roll their own bulletsn and put it to the test ( sort of like were doing here).
Most here i'm sure know why "ball' or full copper jacket prjectiles were agreed on by the Geneva convention. The ballammo would put a soldier out of action but still do a minimum of bone flesh trama. and up untill Korea it took at least two other soliders to stabalize and remove the wounded person to an aid station. This thery didn't hold true when the n.koreans charged , they just left the dead and wounded on the field and usrd them for traction.
Sorry, I got wandering. The point I'm trying to make is , many here have different theory s as to what is the best kind of wound to inflict to put an animal down as close to the point of impact as possible.Like all subjects in black powder muzzloading we all have our own pet theroys. We are restricted more by bore capasity and the law of dimminishing returns in muzzleloadding than in modern cartridge guns This being the case we should be able to work up what suitsa us as an individual with less experimenting.
There are those of us that feel rapid expansin of the projectile will impart the greatest trama to the animal and tthis is a desireable trait. there are those who feel deep penetration is the way to go. Its my opinion that a combination of the two is best. As with the "ball" ammo used by the military the wound channel is basically the same dia. and the projectile nearly alwas exits near the same dia. as it entered. This would be the case with projectiles cast from ww or lintype. We must also take in consideration that in general we are limited in the largerbore muzzloaders to velocitys UNDER 2500 PSI. Now if we were to look up the tests done by Ed Yard and a few other researchers we will find that to try to drive a large bore muzzleloading projectile beyond this will end up destroying accy. and getting severe punishment on the butt end of the weapon. This is where balance comes into beeing a factor.We need to cast a projectie that we fell will give some expansion and deep or complete through penetration with acceptable accy.
Say we settle on stright ww lead and cast with it. the projectiles will be just slightly lighter than pure lead. We patch and lube with our favorite materials and set up our target at 25 yds. put in a moderate powder load of ,say 130grs. 2f and fire a five round group. if it looks to be good up the charge to 135grs. etc.etc. untill the groupstarts to expand. in the 62cal this may take place at 150 to 160grs. at this point drop back 5grs. and now we are going to check for penetration and expantion. Gather up all the phone books and pack them ia box back to back and fire your new accurate load into the ohone books. measure the number of books or part books it cut through. This test can also be done with pine boards but phone books are cheap. Now if you feel that the penetration is less than what you desire .Cast some more adding lintyp yo the mix and try the penetration test again.
This sounds like a lot of time and work but if you are seeking the ultimate load projectile combination than this is how its done. Remember no matter how much powder you stuff in the bore you reach a point of bore capacity or diminishing returns. Personally I like pure lead and moderate loads. If I;m looking to have a bruised body I'll get kicked by a mule.
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I seem to remember some one some where had a formula that could be used to calculate how much powder could be used in a muzzleloader. This formula established based on bore, barrel length, ball weight, powder grade (ffg/fffg etc.) just how much powder could be burned in the barrel before it was expelled out the muzzle unburned.
Anyone know where that is?
Somehow 200 gr loads in a .62 cal just seems like a waste to me. E. Baker in in the 1820's said that as a rule of thumb, 1/3 the weight of the bullet was the appropriate weight of powder. .610 ball=342 gr. (today) which leads to 110+/- grs.
Also, going in one side and out the other does not equate to killing power. Consider the .45 vs 9mm handguns today, a 9mm goes in one side and out the other due to velocity but the lowly .45 goes in one side and stops transferring all of its energy to the target. (it has to get up to do anything else after being hit)
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I think there is quite a bit of the information you speak of in the Lymanblackpowder Loading manual. The idea of shock transfer was a point i tried to make. the full copper jacket military round punched clean through the body transfering only a small amount of its potential energy. If you were to make that projectile into a hollowpoint or unclad lead tip it would destroy much flesh and bone and the expansion factor would transfer as much as 75% of its energy to the wound area. This is the era when Remington cameout with the Corlok and winchester with the silver tip etc. controlled expansion they called it.
I also have some articles by Ed yard on chamber/breech preasures in relationship to black powder loads. The preasure test barrels were made by TC. I am a beleiver in pure lead balls. lead by its very nature tends to stay together.when we start to harden it up with alloys it can shatter even on a rib bone pure lead will deflect as a unit and continue to transfer its energy as a unit. Most balls recovered lose only about 10% or less of their starting weight. In most cases the pure lead ball will travel through to the other side of the animal and be found lodged under tth skin onthe far side.This ,to me, would indicate that ALL the available energy was transfered to the wound channel
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I have always liked the 1 1/2 times the cal. for a powder charge .50 cal 75 gr powder .62 cal 90+ gr powder not heavy loads but more than enough for N.American game. at sensable ranges.
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I have always liked the 1 1/2 times the cal. for a powder charge .50 cal 75 gr powder .62 cal 90+ gr powder not heavy loads but more than enough for N.American game. at sensable ranges.
This is also something I heard many years ago when I was spending time in Texas with the Paso Del Norte Muzzleloaders.
I recall one gentlemen in particular took it on his own to take the "newer" shooters under his wing, and this 1.5 measurement was preached until they had it coming out their ears!
I think as a starter, the old rule has merit.
Uncle Russ...
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I have always liked the 1 1/2 times the cal. for a powder charge .50 cal 75 gr powder .62 cal 90+ gr powder not heavy loads but more than enough for N.American game. at sensable ranges.
This is also something I heard many years ago when I was spending time in Texas with the Paso Del Norte Muzzleloaders.
I recall one gentlemen in particular took it on his own to take the "newer" shooters under his wing, and this 1.5 measurement was preached until they had it coming out their ears!
I think as a starter, the old rule has merit.
Uncle Russ...
I agree completely. It has always worked best for me with all my rifles. I've tinkered around with other loads but always come back to the 1 1/2 times the caliber. This might just be an old addage that was lost to history except for a few that it was passed on to and they as well passed it on.
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I may bump it up a few grains to pull a group tighter but I have just never had any need to shoot 120 grs. in a .54 or 58 the animals I shot evidntly did not watch me load my gun, they died rather nicely with the moderate load, more power to those who like to shoot the max loads I just have not found them to be of any benifit.
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Wyosmith:
Is those types of butt pads acceptable on a Hawkin. Cause me thinks thats what I want on a .62.
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180gr of 2F is an insane load, IMHO. Cut it in half and I think you will be very happy.
I loaded my 20bore NW gun with 70gr of 3f and feared nothing in Alaska.
It is a ML .62 rifle, not a bolt action .338 Ultra Mag...
Mario
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I notice quite a few of you are advocating the use of wheel weights for RBs.You had better stock up because the day of lead wheel weights is very limited.California has banned their use this year even suing Chrysler to force them to stop selling cars so equipped .Since California is the biggest market for new cars I don't see mfgs using different kinds.All of the left coast is on board.Costco and Walmart and many more are joining in voluntarily.It is the goal of the EPA to eliminate them nationwide by 2011.Europe has allready done so.The vise is closing on the use of lead for any purpose. The total lead ban is being pusued deliberately and very cleverly by banning its use in areas where there is little or no resistance,pretty soon the only users will be shooters then watch out.
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Words of wisdom there Charlie!
And I gotta agree with ya ....the writing is on the wall. And has been for some time now.
The more I read of the "reasoning" behind much of this, the more I wonder how this person, or that person ever got elected if they actually believe the nonsense they're spouting off....and there in lies the root of the problem.
It's not that they actually believe a lot of this garbage, but they know that by passing this law, or that law they are getting closer to their ultimate goal, and that is to totally disarm every law abiding citizen, or fix it to where they have nothing to shoot in the guns they were unable to take away from ya.
Yep, grab what wheel weights and lead you can while the grabbing is still good.
Uncle Russ...
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When selecting material to cast up round balls consider this as well. A .610 ball made of pure lead weighs 342 grs. made of wheel weights it weighs 329 grs. and made from linotype it weighs only 314 grs. If you want hitting power pure lead is the way to go. At 13 grs lighter wheel weights aren't too bad but at 28 grs lighter than lead linotype is a big step down. Almost 9% lighter.
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I have done quite a bit lead smelting, for my modern rifles, not bringing the modern thing up other then to illustrate a point. Many muzzleload shooters around here advocate pure lead when shooting whether it be for hunting or target. But when you start talking vel. > 1600 fps. you need to stop and rethink the pure lead idea, trust me on this pure lead > then these vel. will flatten out like a pancake on what ever it hits and two things are going to happen not all the time but enough time that it will cost you eventually.
1. It will flatten out and make a total mess.
2. You will not get the penetration you would with something along the lines of wheel weight.
If you do have a source of pure lead you can make it harder by adding antimony.
I do not have it handy, but there are some good sources on the Internet for exact recipe's.
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I just got back. What a nice discussion!! Very informative! I shouldered my .62 with the killer stock out on my arm like you guys said do and it felt pretty good. I put it just off the shoulder at the base of the delts at the very top of the connection of the bicept and it felt like it got that sadistic point off the meat enough to be comfortable. It will take a little getting used to! I am an old competition shotgun shooter and assault rifle shooter and I am used to really tucking my weapon in tight on the shoulder and getting a good cheek weld on the stock so this out on the upper end of the arm thing is a little different. However, I trust you guys enough to try it....probably this evening. The lead discussion above is good. Sounds like for my purposes I need some wheel weights maybe with a little linotype mixed in for some expansion and almost certain deep penetration(exit) with a hefty powder charge. I just gotta get me a mold!
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I think that when folks talk of pure lead it is in reference to as pure as is available, like from soft roof flashings and other easy to find sources, none of this lead will flatten out completely when it hits a deer, some have shown some that did not penetrate thru and had some expansion, most go clear through the animal, as the most prefered shot is to avoid muscle and bone and take ouit the vital organs.
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I think you right on tg! :lol:
Uncle Russ...
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"Sorry I got so long winded....but some things seem to need a bit more 'splaining...if ya know what I mean. "
No 'pology needed Russ, ya done 'splained it 'bout as good as it could be 'splained.
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FWIW - http://www.rotometals.com (http://www.rotometals.com) sells 99+% pure lead, various bullet casting alloys, as well as antimony and tin if you'd like to brew up your own.
If you purchase $99.00 + for most items shipping is free......
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The Hornady round balls I have been shooting flatten out like pancakes. I have only had about three in 20 come out of a deer. When I find them the ball is flat and big around as a quarter or more. I have some linotype and a bunch of Hornady lead balls. I wonder if I were to mix the Hornady balls and linotype about half and half, how do you think the new balls would perform? I think they would expand a little but be much harder and likely crush bone and still exit. Any of you got any experience with a similar mix??
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The Hornady round balls I have been shooting flatten out like pancakes. I have only had about three in 20 come out of a deer. When I find them the ball is flat and big around as a quarter or more. I have some linotype and a bunch of Hornady lead balls. I wonder if I were to mix the Hornady balls and linotype about half and half, how do you think the new balls would perform? I think they would expand a little but be much harder and likely crush bone and still exit. Any of you got any experience with a similar mix??
Mark, There is not enough room on this forum to get into all the details of alloys in casting, but suffice to say....The short answer is because barrels aren't perfect.
The long answer is because cast bullet obturation (or bump-up) is a good thing.
Obturation is the plastic like deformation of the bullet alloy as a result of the pressure applied to the base, (or bottom) by the burning powder.....the resistance to movement of a body at rest.
By making the bullet soft enough that it can deform slightly upon firing, it does a better job of sealing the gases off behind it and minimizing blow-by and the leading that results from it.
Antimony and arsenic are the products of choice when it comes to hardening....but now we are talking about taking a hardness beyond a BHN of 20+
Trust me on this wheel weight thing. Metallurgist all agree that ww are "most likely" the best choice because of malleability, bump-up qualities, and availability.
We all have a tendency to "over engineer" about anything associated with shooting, especially casting, or running round ball.
Uncle Russ...
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I can get some wheel weights I think. Even pure linotype will obturate slightly with enough pressure in centerfire guns. I think pure lino will be too hard for MLer application but I bet a little of it mixed in will harden up soft lead and promote better penetration and less radical deformation in deer size game. I have already seen the down side of "too soft". I am not sure there is a down side of "too hard" as long as it is accurate and not brittle. Consider this: even if a .62 cal. ball does not expand at all, it comes out of the barrel bigger around than a typical .30-06 projectile will be after radical expansion! I see overexpansion as a far greater ill than underexpansion. That's just my opinion. I have killed lots of deer with pure linotype pistol bullets that did not expand at all most of the time. They crushed bone and came out and made for clear and short blood trails. I bet a big ole round ball that stays pretty much together would do even better. Just thinking out loud. :-)
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Man, you got one bad case of Magnumitus.

As far as a Lino mix, it can be whatever you want I guess. I have some lino that the tin must be depleted because it only goes to 12 air-cooled. It is lino because it's still in the print form, not ingots.
You'll just have to decide what hardness you want, then experiment until you get there.
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RM, Yes, I have got magnumitis. :-) Unapologetically!!! I like big guns. I like big knives. I like a big truck; I'm 6'3" and I can't stand a little vehicle. In guns I like one that will do the job with authority and not be on the edge of effective. You can do anything with a big knife that you can do with a little one but you darn sure cannot do anything with a little one that you can do with a big one. Same thing seems to hold true for guns. RM, I do not know about you but lots of folks shoot a lot of paper and not many critters. For paper and just pure fun a smaller gun with a lot less powder is better, more forgiving, and easier to shoot well. For anchoring deer on the spot or dropping an elk or slamming a big ole hog I much prefer big bore, heavy projectiles, and plenty of velocity. If that diagnoses me with magnumitis, then I guess I have a terminal case of it. I'm a little tired of hearing how great the smaller calibers are. They just did not do that well for me. Three exits in 20 deer shot, long blood trails with very little blood, four losses......sirs, you can have the little ball guns with mouse charges! Make mine a big bore. (magnum if it makes you feel better to call it that.) :-)
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Mark theres nothing wrong in having enough gun to do the job propperly in the hunting field, and that is a personal thing. But it's also all right for others to have their idea of what constitutes big enough. and as you said , punching paper takes a lot less powder and gun than may be needed in the field. Keep on enjoying your big bores its what makes you feel good that counts.
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Gordon, I for sure did not mean any disrespect to anyone here or anywhere else with what I said about smaller calibers. I know better hunters and better shots get closer than I do and shoot deer in a different place than I prefer. I know full well that smaller will do fine cause I killed several deer with a .50 cal Hawken before I got this custom bug and big bore magnumitis. I just like the authority, noise, kick, and thump on the target of the .62. I am afraid to shoot a .72 for fear that I will LIKE it ! :-) Different hunting terrain and conditions and circumstances call for different types of guns. To me the .62 is kinda in the middle between small to medium and medium to really big. .69 and .72 are BIG. Anything beyond that is HUGE!! I just do not see the .62 as "magnum" yet. I guess I am just inexperienced as yet but I chose the .62 cause it seemed like a good compromise caliber. The roughly 350 grain ball is considerably heavier than the 230 grain .54 I had experience with and yet is far lighter and hopefully flatter shooting than the sho-nuff big 500 and 600+grain stuff. As far as "feel good" is concerned, I must admit that there is something INSPIRING about looking at that big ole hole in the end when I go to the woods. :-)
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Mark,
I know what you mean, I consider my .62 my plinking gun. The bigger bores are for the serious work.
Pretty impressive to see a 1,800 pound bison knocked completely off its feet and rolled onto its back with a 100 yard shot from the ol' .72. Friend of mine shot an elk from about 50 yards with his .72 and he said it just literally picked it up off all 4 feet and threw it sideways.
Once again, my analogy: You can get from home to the grocery store just as well in a Yugo as you can in a Corvette - but the Yugo is a lot less fun.
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Men, What an interesting discussion! Bigsmoke, I like the car analogy. I can fold my long legs up and put them in a ford Ranger but I do enjoy my F250 much better! I can skin a deer with a pocket knife and have many times but I prefer my big Randall model 18! I would hate to have to cut a big tentpole or make a brush shelter for the night with the pocketknife but the Randal will handle either task.
Wyo, I like your information about hardness. The first question my hunting partner and I asked when we got into this BP thing was, Why is nobody using hard bullets? Evidently they are; lots of folks are it seems. Big frontal area (meplat) is what makes big bore handguns effective. Would that not also be true with MLers. It seems to me that a BIG frontal area (i.e. caliber) ball that is ALSO plenty hard would be the ultimate combination for shooting critters. Wyo, Also, a great big WOW! from me on 140 grains of 3F!! That is not a trivial charge! In fact it seems to be awfuly close to the 180grain 2F load that I have been getting ribbed about here for a day or too. :-) I bet that power factor level will cure my ills on skinny whitetail deer!!! :-)
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Steve, Great post! You have a wealth of experience that most including me cannot fathom! I used to average just over 40K rounds of ammo per year when I was shooting competitively but I NEVER came close to burning out that many barrels!!
Now, Seriously I hope my above post did not imply that I was advocating the use of LBT bullets in a MLer. That is for sure not my intent. I have actually "converted" or "bought in" to this traditional MLer thing pretty deep. I have spent well over three grand in two years on custom guns which are flintlock and round ball only so I have no interest in shooting LBTs. I just meant to note that seemingly what a big flat meplat will do for a pistol bullet performance on game, a big diameter ball should accomplish with a MLer. A ball that is both big and pretty hard should possess massive potential for wound canal and should also exit reliably for the true best of both worlds. I guess I will just have to fire up the melting pot and then slam some critters next year to see how my experiment goes. Hunting like life is a journey.
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Mark,
Even Forsythe appreciated a hardened ball in his 14 bore double rifles. In his book, The Sporting Rifle and its Projectiles, he mentioned alloying and hardening them with mercury. It is my thought that he had one of his native porters/trackers/whatever do the bullet casting for him.
That is one thing that I don't know if I would advocate doing.
I do know that a .715 pure lead round ball will pass completely through a bison neck.
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Steve , do you add a little 50/50 solder to the mix to get the ww to fill out mould better ? Ive had to do that with pistol and 45 rifle bullets .
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Steve , do you add a little 50/50 solder to the mix to get the ww to fill out mould better ? Ive had to do that with pistol and 45 rifle bullets .
Frank
I'm not Steve but I will insert my response anyway.
I run my alloys HOT and do not have a problem with filling out.
I deal with the frost finish by putting the cast balls in my Lyman vibratory case cleaner with some small hunks of steel wool and running it
My problem is with pure lead and filling the mold
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Jerry , when I cast bullets straight ww I would get little shrink divots until I added the bit of tin 1/2lb to 9.5lb . Evidently must be different critter bein a sphere
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Thanks Steve , I'll give it a go
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im with the other fellas here . i shoot both hard and soft balls . for hunting , only hard balls .
i also cast hot and have no issue with shrinking . Now frosting yes .
This used to bother me . But then a gunsmith friend of mine turned me into tumbling .
What I did was buy a cheep rock tumbler from harbor freight. 15 bucks if I recall . This tumbler has a rubber canister and needs no medium to smooth the balls . . For my 54 , I put 50-75 bas in the canister and et them tumble for 1 hour again NO medium . The bals all come out as smooth as a babies hind end . A very bright high polished grey . Much better then anything you ever saw from hornady or lyman .
As to the isssue with hard balls . I agree with steve here .
I think to often people get confused wit comparing center fire with muzzleloading . They are 2 different animals . With center fire if you re load , you have the choice of many . Many different bullet designs . Each design has its own characteristics both in flight and after penetration.. As such folks IMO get caught up in expansion. They want a projectile that expands on contact . don’t get me wrong , this is good in most cases, as it transfers the energy of the projectile . But remember with center fire rifles , you have the velocity to to off set much of the friction / drag caused by that expansion as such , a higher velocity ,added to a smaller round will produce a lot more energy.
But we shoot slower and thus use a bigger projectile . So we have the same frontal area thought flight as that center fire projectile has after contact . Ever compared an expanded , say a 30.06 170 grain boattail to a 54 cal rb ?
So now imagine if you will that same 54 cal rb , expanding even ½ the amount that the boattail did . Then take into account that the RB is inherently travailing at a much lower speed . Exspantion of the soft RB will result in loss of penetration. Where a ball of the same size wich resists expansion, will have less drag and thus carry on through .
Butas I said before . This is a trade off . When a projectile, “any projectile “ travels all the way through a target it means that it has not transferred all its capable energy into that target . A perfect situation would be for the projectile to travel all the way through but simply fall out the off side of the target . Thus having no energy to continue traveling.
So when you see these modern muzzleloading projectile touting 2000 ft lbs at 100 yards , remember that if these travel all the way through the targets , they are not transferring 2000 ftlbs into the target . In fact they may be ony transferring ½ that in some cases .
That all being said . For myself , I want very little expansion. In other words I rely on the size of the ball and the ability of that ball to hold together , breaking bone and tearing its way through and then breaking bone on its way out .
The soft ball however also has it attributes in that when place in the boiler room , it doesn need to travil all the way through . All it has to do is tear up the hart , lungs . In wich case , shot placement is the key. Relay its they key for both projectiles IMO
As to powder charges . I see no need to use heavy charges other then IF that charge give the best accuracy in your rifle .
See at a give after a given charge , adding more powder , does little . Infact if we look at the lyman charts we can see that after about 110 grains , adding more powder produces little benefit in FTLBS or Velocities
Take a 32 inch 54 cal shooting 100 grains of 2F vs. 120 grains of 2F
We see that the added 20 grains has bumped our pressure by 1400PSI but it has only yielded 39 additional ftlbs at 100 . It also only adds another 37fps . To give you some idea ast to what that is . A hammer hitting your thumb has more energy then that added 20 grains gave you . that’s marginal at best and simply not worth the added use of powder . .
Simply put , you cannot get the same damage effect from traditional muzzleloading that you do from center fires , tell such time as you raise the velocities of the projectile into the center fire realm . While you may have a larger primary wound channel , you simple will not see the same secondary wound channel caused by a high velocity , high expansion projectile
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I want an EXIT wound. I do not care how much wasted energy hits the ground beyond the critter. An exit wound provides total decompression of the chest cavity. It provides a better blood trail. It drastically reduces the odds of a plugged hole and no blood trail. From a treestand or elevated position, a single high hole in a critter makes trailing hard. A high entry with a low offside exit makes the icing on the cake. With Mlers we have more than enough bore diameter to provide for a big hole. There is simply no excuse for no exit. Whatever combo provides good trajectory and good accuracy and reliable exits from all reasonable angles is what I am after. ("reasonable angles" to me means quartering to or away and broadsides)
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then if all your worried about is a hole . i would used eather hard lead or Brass rb . you will get a completepass through hole on most any size game regardless of the caliber you chose . within the acceptable ranges of a muzzleloader that is . and you wont need 17o grains of powder to do it , i would also recomend going to a 1 bore . after all bigger hole . better yet , a wall gun would solve all your problems . fast and easy
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Well, I think I made it clear that I wanted both a degree of expansion and an exit but maybe I didn't. Is both too much to ask for? A big flat lead washer inside a critter may be efficient but it does not contribute much to recovery if there is no blood trail and the critter runs a while. An exit wound even if somewhat smaller would seem preferable than no exit. So laugh all you like. I will be home cooking backstrap having the final laugh while you are still looking for your perfectly shot deer that happened to run off with your super efficient flat washer inside. :-) Captchee, I really do not expect such mirth from you who has already admitted to shooting elk with conicals for better penetration and quick recovery. However, a good laugh is a good laugh no matter at whose expense. :-) I gotta scoot for the day. I will play with you boys tomorrow maybe if you promise to play nice. ;-)
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Now Mark,.... I think the "wall gun" comment was pretty funny. (don't you?)
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mark im not making fun of you . im serious .
if a hole is what you want then make a hole , no issue .
but if you want a hole , then bigger is better . so go with a 1 bore and dont worry about the issue . not only will you not have to worry about tracking but you wont really have to worry about shot placment or exspantion eather . just get her done .
as to conicals . lets make this real clear . i dont chose them for penetration , i use them for shear energy of their wieght . their shear knock down power and thump
i dont need a blood trail to track game . sure its nice but ha if there isnt one ok so be it .
Tracking is a very good skill to learn . Its in demand . There is always a need for trackers with mountain search an rescue , local police departments , even guides
see for me , call it to many years in the service , if you like . but i find nothing enjoyable about killing . now i do like to hunt and i dont have a problem with killing . but if i dont feel comfortable with a given shot ,,, i dont take it . i dont care how big the animal may be . there will be another time . myself i enjoy the hunt and the challenge. So you may very well be home, way before I am . But I submit that I will be still out there enjoying the hunt long after you are home .
now im not riding you here or trying to ridicule you at all . But it just seems to me that you are trying to simply disprove what everyone is telling you . So let me tell you something as fact .as a hunter and IMO a friend .
IF you hunt long enough , you will lose game . I don’t care what it is you are using . Bow , modern rifle , cross bow , muzzleloading or muzzleloader for that mater any size you can think of in the above weapons . You will lose game .
The only way to reduce that , is to have proper shot placement . Proper control . Learn when to just say ; ahhh not good and back away . Instead of taking the risk . You do that and any of the calibers will give you good results with a RB . Forget that and you will be relying on your skill as a tracker. .
See , all , well most of us here have already been where you are now . But we were lucky enough to have someone grab hold of our ear and say LISTEN!!!
Trust me . If you do that , your going to be happy with the results you get . Be it shooting soft RB , hard lead RB or conicals .
Turn away from it and your going to find yourself floundering with the same quandrums for a very long time tell one day you find that what you were being told was true .
see no mater the weapon you chose , or the size of that weapon , it will not take the place of your skill . it cannot and will not suddenly give you knowlage that you have not learned . there is no majic bullet but for the one you use between your ears
that’s all im saying sir .
Im not bad mouthing you in any way . Just trying to give you sound advice that I learned the hard way , long ago
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Well said!!
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+1 Captchee!
Mark, the thing I don't understand is that you want an exit wound, don't care about wasted enery, etc. Yet your original post was that all this energy was kicking the tar out of you.
You had a simple question and got the simple reply (use less powder).
In modern guns, I can shoot up to a .375 H&H fairly comfortably. After that, it begins to hurt. Can I shoot a .458 Mag? Yes. Can I shoot a .470 NE? Yes.
Does it hurt? Damn skippy! But if I have to use those calibers for the game I'm hunting, that's just the way it is. I don't complain about it and then complain when folks tell me to downgrade to a .338 or .375 Mag. that will get the job done without hurting.
The other thing that we haven't brought up is that the TN-style rifles weren't made in large calibers, so that buttplate is not designed to be comfotable with that kind of charge.
Just my 2 cents.
Mario
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After following this thread I keep going back to this thread.
http://www.traditionalmuzzleloadingassociation.org/forum/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=9689
80 grs of ffg and a .590 ball.
That's all I've got to say on the matter.
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I sense a certain lack of acceptance or understanding of the traditional ways of hunting with ML's i don't know what more antone can sat to open the door, if one can leave everything one has ever learned about shooting a deer, where/how to shoot a deer and start over with a fresh open mind with no opinions on how to hunt, then add all that has been offered and trust it and use it one will regularly take deer with a .50 or .54 I am not leaving out the smaller bores as not efficient but want to choose an unarguable place to start,open iron sights, prb, equall a set distance for each individual work within this and trust the gear and things will go well any problems in the past of loosing or crippling deer are the result of doing something different than what it being suggested here, and as said we all loose one sometime, when a great number of hunters make regular kills and a very small number of others using the same gear have problems it is not the gear, it is the execution of the process from start to finish.
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I agree with what Captchee wrote, and many others, as well.
From my own experance, I have taken a lot of deer in the last 45+ years with 45, 50,54,58cal. rifles and 12ga. smoothbore muzzelloading shotguns, both flintlock, and caplock. Most everyone of them went down quick. Some right where they stood, and others ran off a few yards before going down. Only one went 70 yards before dropping, and that was because I hit him a little higher then I planed to. I've used balls made from soft lead, med. hard lead, and hard lead, and didn't see a whole lot of differnce in how they went down.
Like they said above, It's where the shot is placed that counts. I don't take a shot unless I'm 99.9% sure I can put the ball where I want to put it. By doing it that way, I've saved myself a lot of tracking jobs
Just my two cents of how I do it, someone else may do things a whole other way, and come out with the same results.
How ever you do it, Good Luck with your shooting, and have fun with it.
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Good morning Gentlemen: Thannks to all once again for the input. First: Rollingb...the answer is "yes" I did think the wall gun comment was pretty funny! :-) I got a good sense of humor. :-)
Mario: The "energy" is not hurting me. It is the darn pointed Tennessee type buttplate that is the problem. I will follow the advice here and move it out on my arm a bit to solve that problem or I will simply round and smooth that top point so it won't dig into my shoulder as much.
I sense a tad of frustration here on both sides, mine and many of yours. Actually we are beating a dead horse and going in circles.
Captchee, I appreciate your post. I am not at all offended and would not be even if you were poking a little fun my way. I too feel a strange cyber friendship and I know all of you mean well for me and have actually helped me a lot.
I am not at all new to hunting; killed my first deer with black powder well over two decades ago. I'm well over a hundred kills and recoveries with traditional bows, recurve and longbow, so let's not question my tracking skills OK. Debunk #2- I am not an impatient newbie who is likely to take the Texas heart shot just to shoot a deer with a gun.
The "shot" I take and the "patience" issue I seem to be questioned about.....It's like this. With a real gun, and a MLer is a real gun, inside 100 yards with no obstruction I expect to take a quartering to or away or broadside shot. It is that simple. I want to place a ball in the front crease of the shoulder quartering to or behind the shoulder quartering away or dead through the shoulders on perfect broadside if I so choose and have the darn projectile come out!! Now is that too much to ask?? With soft Hornady balls I have simply not had that happen. I have stepped up in caliber to .62 with a little heavier ball and I am willing to up the powder charge to a perfectly acceptable and safe charge of 140 grains on up to 180 or more of 2F depending on what my gun shoots best. Now one more time, men, what exactly am I doing that is so "newbie" so "funny" or so "non-traditional" here that seems to put me on the opposite side of the table from you all's way of thinking?? We've questioned my shooting skills, my hunting skills, my tracking skills, my sense of ballistics...... Am I the only one on here shooting a .62 cal. gun? Am I the only one out there that really wants the bullet to come out?
Finally, can we respectfully drop the hyperbole of "why don't I just shoot a cannon with wheels on it or a nice black powder nuclear device" and just answer my question? :-)
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Now one more time, men, what exactly am I doing that is so "newbie" so "funny" or so "non-traditional" here that seems to put me on the opposite side of the table from you all's way of thinking??
Okay to add more opinion (in case you haven't received enough) it is this:
I expect to take a quartering to or away or broadside shot. It is that simple. I want to place a ball in the front crease of the shoulder quartering to or behind the shoulder quartering away or dead through the shoulders on perfect broadside if I so choose and have the darn projectile come out!!
I think the ML hunter should be shootin out the lights (heart/lung) and not trying to bust through shoulders. That being said, from what I have read you should be able to obtain your goal with a combination of harder balls and heavier charges...
Am I the only one out there that really wants the bullet to come out?
Nope, and that is why I am trying to "magnumize" a b'ar load for my rifle. Don't want to lose another one...
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Wyo, Well said! The problem with dropping the powder charge radically to keep the soft ball from flattening is that you end up with a 50 yard gun with terrible trajectory beyond that. I know many would just solve that by getting closer or not shooting. OK, their choice. My choice is a quest for the best of both trajectory and reliable penetration. Therefore, I deduce from your experience that I might be on the right track by using a slightly larger and heavier ball combined with increased hardness and pushed by enough powder to provide good trajectory out to 100 or maybe 125 yards. Sound logical?
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Then Mark what you are seeking is nothing new - it is what Purdey and others did back in the 1850's and later and called Express Rifles - most of which were built for conicals, but some were built for using RB's.......
IMO if you still prefer a Flinter I'd set up yourself up with an Express Rifle (Steve should know how) in 16 bore (.69 caliber 1/70" twist for large powder loads??) and rather than a half-stock Hawken I would suggest building it as a late period English Flint Rifle - see pictures below for examples.....the top one is .75 caliber
(http://www.wrtcleather.com/1-ckd/firearms/english-rifle-4.jpg)
Flat buttplates for heavy loads, halfstocks, Nock patent breeches - IMO the ultimate in historically correct Big game rifles....
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Just and an addition here.
I used to hunt with an old man when I was a teenager. He shot an old original rifle. I flinter that was none too reliable. It didn't always fire as the lock as not too good. But he sent the barrel in to the shop and we re-cut the bore and the rifling, and it was quite accurate when it would fire. He and I hunted together 4 times. He killed 2 deer with it. Both good sized mulie bucks. It was cut to a 45 caliber with a 1-48 twist. He used a 45-70 shell as a measure and shot G-O 3F powder. He used WW metal for the balls and dropped them in a bucket of watter out of the mold. .440s I believe.
Now, the point of the post;
He killed two nice bucks when he was hunting with me and both buck fell within a very short distance of where then were hit. Both had through and through wounds! Both were hit in the lungs.
Now I have seen and even shot deer in the past with 50s 54, and 58 cal guns that didn't fall or die near as fast as old Doug's deer did when the balls didn't go through.
As I already said, Randy, Mike, Lon, Debbie and Brad all have had the same experience as I have . So have about 10-12 otehr men I have guided in the years past.
A flattened ball that doesn't go through is not NEAR as effective as round one that does. Also flat balls (disks) don't' always penetrate straight in the animal. I have also seem conicals veer off radically in game.
Getting the bullet through the INSIDE is the point. Getting to to hit them "where they live" is what it's all about.
In my experience (which is fairly considerable), and in the opinions of men that shot many thousands of animals in the last century, hard balls are far better then more powder.
It is an interesting fact (and it is a fact, not an opinion) that a 58 cal ball (.565') of pure lead will not penetrate as well in an elk or a deer if it's shot with 120 grains of powder as it will with 65 grains of powder. Why?
The load with 65 gr. doesn't deform the ball on impact, and the ball goes through and goes pretty straight along it's first path. It's not so fast that it flattens.
The one with 120 grains turns into a disk and makes a shallower wound and the wound channel is almost never straight, so sometime you hit hear and lungs, sometimes you get part of the vitals and sometims you get mostly meat and muscle, and you never know how it's going to go.
If you harden the lead you get a straighter wound, so you can know where it's going to go
Nuf said
This point was well illustrated on Myth busters were the took a collection of guns all the way up to an including a .50 bmg.
Shooting them into a pool within 3ft. of water all projectiles including the .50 cal disintegrated into shrapnel, except for if I can remember correctly and old sharps 45.70 round someone correct me if they saw this and I am wrong. Which was traveling at a comparative slow velocity to the modern rounds, the .45 is the only one that did not get turned into "Shredded cheese". I may be off on the actual specifics of the guns, but it was obvious that the slower moving projectile penetrated a fluid medium more efficiently, then the faster ones, for whatever that is worth
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The first thing that I would do is work up a lighter load. No matter what kind of butplate you have 180 grains is going to tap you pretty good :) .
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flintlockmdj, 80 grains serves many a shooter well,......just not me. Do you hunt? Do you shoot 100 yards and beyond? I am sure 80 grains would be usable for both applications. I simply have found that trajectory with that small of a charge is less than what I want and need for shooting game or paper at longer range out to say 125 yards. Anything that 80 grains will do, so will 140grains but the same cannot be said in reverse.
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Its your sholder, go ahead.
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This past weekend I put a new set of sights on the .62 I have and sighted it in. I used 140grains of 2F with PRB for every shot. Honestly the recoil was mild enough. My first impression was that it was not that different from 100grains in my old .54. I just as a newcomer to all this do not see all the "ooooohhh" and "aaaahhhh" over 140grains of powder. On up to and maybe above 200 grains is not uncommon. 80 grains in a .62 is a toy load, a plinking load and not something I would consider for confidently killing anything but paper. JMO :-)
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This past weekend I put a new set of sights on the .62 I have and sighted it in. I used 140grains of 2F with PRB for every shot. Honestly the recoil was mild enough. My first impression was that it was not that different from 100grains in my old .54. I just as a newcomer to all this do not see all the "ooooohhh" and "aaaahhhh" over 140grains of powder. On up to and maybe above 200 grains is not uncommon. 80 grains in a .62 is a toy load, a plinking load and not something I would consider for confidently killing anything but paper. JMO :-)
I'm going to stir up a mess here, but from reading this thread, you are not looking for information, you're looking for confirmation.
This is still a more or less free country, shoot the load you like.
Three Hawks
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You can talk all day about doubling and tripling the powder charge typically used and absolute need for it but when I read this post all I can say is why?
http://www.traditionalmuzzleloadingassociation.org/forum/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=9689
Also early on you talked about getting good big exist wounds. I must have grown up in very different hunting community because I was taught to do as little damage to the animal as possible and take it down quickly. One shot one animal.
You kill it you pack it out. Just because you can see it doesn't mean you have to shoot at it.
(Every ounce of meat was valuable and if you didn't kill it you didn't eat it during the winter which lasted a full 9 months or more. Also adrenalin doesn't taste very good.)
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180 grains is 6.6 drams! Now the stoutest BP load I ever saw was 4 drams in a 12 gauge.
LD
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Men, Here is the bottomline. We have a difference in opinion and that is that. There does not always have to be someone who is "right." I know what I want and I am sure all of you do. I did begin with a desire for information. I do not need confirmation. I will do that for myself in the woods as I have already done. I first wanted to know simply how to modify the stock on a rifle. Then of course it turned to a debate about powder charge and how much is enough versus too much. As for meat destruction.....cut the crap and tell the truth. We do not hunt for the meat alone and I doubt if any of us hunt as our only source of meat to eat. If my projectile tears up two extra bits of shoulder meat, then so the heck what!! The ole meat destruction argument is lame and pales in importance to a quick and efficient kill with a short blood trail. As for shooting at every deer I see, I do not do that. However, I refuse to be bound to the kiddie stake distance of 50 yards or so that so many of you here seem to think is the "norm." I can shoot my longbow almost that far and have taken deer that far with bow and arrow. I have come to realize that there are two pretty distinct groups here, one with lots of real world experience killing game with heavy loads like Ron LeClair for example. The other group are paper punchers and hobbyists who cannot imagine a heavy charge or a shot the length of a football field. I respect both groups but choose to tailor my guns and loads to the killing of game with an expected range limitation of at least 100 yards. Now if I have managed to ruffle some of your close range mouse charge feathers then I regret it. I just think some of you need to grow up and realize that you are in fact shooting real guns, real guns capable of a lot more than you are doing with them. Lastly, shoot what you want, but try not to demean me and others who choose not to follow the path of mediocrity. Just my opinion. Flame on if you like; I got thick skin and a good sense of humor! :-)
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;) "Doc"
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Voyager, Point well made and well taken. The ORIGINAL subject was a very pointed buttstock that I wanted to alter. Of course, it could not be left at that and we had to again get into the "magnumitis" discussion. I have contributed as much as anyone else to the argument and to keeping it alive off track. So far it has been civil on all sides but sometimes bluntly honest. If we are sharing constructively then it ought to continue. If not, I have no problem with this being the end of it.
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Well, the simple facts with muzzleloaders are,.... velocity and accuracy do NOT increase in relationship to the powder charge used after a certain amount. (so "range" doesn't either)
When working up a load, there is a point where an increase in the powder charge is out of proportion to any further increase in velocity, and that "point" is refered to as the "POINT OF DIMINISHED RETURNS".
,.... in order to find out where that point is,... one MUST use a chrony and "punch" some paper,... because accuracy often starts to suffer BEFORE a load's "PODR" is reached.
I've been a dedicated hunter my whole life, but I'd have a poor idea of what my load (and rifle) is actually doing, IF I didn't punch paper also.
Mark,.... tell me this,.... what "increases in velocities" are you getting from each additional 10 gr. of powder over and above 140 gr. in your .62?
If you're chronigraphing your loads, I'm sure you're seeing much less of an increase in velocity, as powder is still being increased.
I'm gonna guess (from the results I've personally seen with my .54 and .58 caliburs) that your increased velocity will probably be somewhere in the single digits before you reach a max load of 200 grs in your .62.
Personaly,... I consider any load that's past it's "PODR",.. to be less accurate and a waste of good powder.
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Yes, I would also be interested in knowing what the chronograph is saying about the various charges in your rifle, Mark.
As I recall my .62 was in the 1400 + fps range with 135 grains, which is my target load. For each 10 grain increment, there was a definite increase and it (I) maxed out at 200 grains at about 2,000 fps, depending on the powder used. Pyrodex Select gave me a slight edge (2004 fps) on GOEX Cartridge (1,994 fps). This is with true Forsythe style rifling of 1:104, .006 deep, narrow land, wide groove in a 32" barrel.
Again Mark, what is the rate of twist on your rifle?
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John,... do you remember what the velocity increase was, by the time you went from 190 grs. to 200 grs.?
...., do you remember what your powder charge was when the velocity "increase" started to taper off (PODR) with your particular barrel?
If you settled on 135 grs. as your "target load",... is that because that was the "most accurate" charge for your particular barrel?
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RB
1. If I hadn't moved, I would just meander out to the shop and look up that info. However, I think it is stored securely in a storage locker in North Idaho, along with a whole bunch of other stuff. For some reason, the top end figures stayed in my mind, probably because I found it interesting that the Pyrodex would provide a slightly faster MV than the real thing. Even more amazing was the testing I did with my 8 bore rifle where it beat GOEX Ffg by 90 fps with the maximum charge I had settled on of 300 grains. This gave me cause to think that Pyrodex was more efficient, the larger the bore of the gun. I talked to the good folks at Hodgdon and they hadn't a clue, as no one there had tested anything that big. Just an interresting little side factoid.
2. See above, don't really recall, but it seems that I was getting somewhere in the neighborhood of 50-075 +/- fps increase with each additional 10 grains.
3. Yes, I did a whole afternoon shooting on the bench, testing various loads and lubes and patches and came up with a one hole group at 25 yards with 135 Grains Ffg, .610 round ball, OxYoke .015 dry patch lubed with Ol' Thunder and RWS musket caps. I have found that over 150 grains in any of my big bore guns, the patch starts to suffer severe burning and for the heavy charges, I use an OxYoke 20 ga lubed cushion wad between the powder and the PRB. Over 135 grains, it started to open up a bit, to the point where I think I was getting about a 1 1/2" group with 200 grains. That would still be minute of elk at ranges I would shoot, but not good enough for target work.
One of these days I will get back up to my storage locker and reclaim all my stuff. Will do some more testing when I get the chronograph back too. Until then, I just have to rely upon a faulty memory.
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Rollingb/Bigsmoke, Thanks for your input; we are back on track sharing quality information and advice. I have not done my chronograph work yet as I am in the early stages of load development. Rollingb, John likely has already answered the question you asked me assuming my results are similar to his. 1,400 fps up to 2,000fps is a significant increase in velocity and well worth the extra powder cost and recoil to gain the trajectory and energy improvement. I do own a chronograph but have not gotten to that part of my development yet as I am working on accuracy first with John's approximate 140grain 2F load as my bottomthreshold for now. The difference in point of impact at just 60 yards was six or seven inches with 180 grains versus 100 grains. My last session was with all 140grain loads and overpowder wads and factory precut and lubed patches and a bigger ball than I had used before. Going to the overpowder wad and a .610 ball instead of .600 ball gave me really tight sub one inch two shot groups at 75 yards! Soon as I get to shoot again I will see if I can duplicate that performance at 100 yards. If I do I will begin working upwards with the powder in 10 grain increments till accuracy goes south or till the recoil gets truly unpleasant. I will chronograph along the way and will have some real numbers for you then but that will be a few weeks. I do want to find the PODR for my rifle and and an accurate load as close to 2,000fps as I can get it in .62 cal.
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Interesting reading, John
I have, over the years, found a few oddities me own self! :?
Uncle Russ..