Traditional Muzzleloading Association

Traditional Firearms => Flintlock Long Guns => Topic started by: Thunderhawk1828 on March 24, 2009, 11:06:27 PM

Title: Trigger Pull
Post by: Thunderhawk1828 on March 24, 2009, 11:06:27 PM

Hello all:

I have a Traditions Kentucky 50 Cal Flintlock (Single trigger) and the pull on it seems heavy. Is there any way to reduce the poundage pull on this rifle? I didn't see any screw to use and I didn't find any info on the Traditions web site. If the answer is no, then so be it.

Thanks for the help.

Thunderhawk

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Post by: Gordon H.Kemp on March 24, 2009, 11:22:38 PM

Have you tried pulling the lock and trigger assy. and polish the sear trip etc. I have an old CVA Kentucky and thats all it took to get a smooth crisp trigger.

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Post by: BEAVERMAN on March 24, 2009, 11:31:32 PM

id there an adjustment screw on the sear like most of the traditions rifles?

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Post by: Gordon H.Kemp on March 24, 2009, 11:49:04 PM

Beave, most of the CVAs and Traditions didn't get polished or fine tuned before going to the dealers. The locks do have an adjustment screw but it's usually machine marks and small burrs that cause the stiff pull. I would do the clean-up before trying to adjust the sear screw. I've owned and worked on several CVAs and Traditions and all but two were cured without touching the screw.

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Post by: BEAVERMAN on March 24, 2009, 11:59:13 PM

I agree Gordy, first thing I do with ANY lock that I get is take it apart and polish all moving parts!

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Post by: Thunderhawk1828 on March 27, 2009, 09:52:09 PM

Gents:

you've convined me - I'll clean it up first and see how it goes.

Thanks.

Thunderhawk

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Post by: Three Hawks on March 28, 2009, 01:23:02 AM

I've come to the realization that for me, at least, Italian and Spanish made muzzleloading guns come as pre-assembled kits requiring final fit and finish.  Two or three hours careful work with some fine ceramic stones to remove burrs and complete the finishing of surfaces which work against others end in a nicely working gun.  

I'll have to make a call to Tradition's 800 number soon because the Trapper Pistol kit I got from MidwayArms has the sear bar in the lock so badly mangled the trigger cannot reach it.  I'm hoping they just send me a new sear.  If I have to send back any more than that I'm gonna be upset.  I don't want to just bend it back for fear of breaking it.  I'll give 'em an opportunity to excel.  We'll see how they handle it.

Three Hawks

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Post by: BEAVERMAN on March 28, 2009, 01:42:00 AM

Quote from: "Three Hawks"

I've come to the realization that for me, at least, Italian and Spanish made muzzleloading guns come as pre-assembled kits requiring final fit and finish.  Two or three hours careful work with some fine ceramic stones to remove burrs and complete the finishing of surfaces which work against others end in a nicely working gun.  

I'll have to make a call to Tradition's 800 number soon because the Trapper Pistol kit I got from MidwayArms has the sear bar in the lock so badly mangled the trigger cannot reach it.  I'm hoping they just send me a new sear.  If I have to send back any more than that I'm gonna be upset.  I don't want to just bend it back for fear of breaking it.  I'll give 'em an opportunity to excel.  We'll see how they handle it.

Three Hawks

 gerry, they'll probably ask for the entire lock, at least tahts been my experience with them, when you talk with them, tell them its brand new, theyll tell you it will take 3 or 4 weeks, send it in wait 2 weeks and pitch and moan and they'll ship ya out anew one ASAP!

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Post by: Captchee on March 28, 2009, 10:55:25 AM

not all traditions/ CVA tumblers have a feather screw . some do , some dont . you just have to look and see .
 i would also agree with the others . polish her up good . dont forget the sear arm where it rides on the trigger . also dont forget the top of the trigger where it rides on the sear arm .
 there are other things you can also do , but try that first .

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Post by: Loyalist Dave on March 28, 2009, 12:06:03 PM

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Two or three hours careful work with some fine ceramic stones to remove burrs and complete the finishing of surfaces which work against others end in a nicely working gun

THIS is the key, use stones and take your time with a sear and tumbler, and do it by hand.  I have seen several examples of folks who went in with some aggressive abrasives, or..., power tools and gritty media (AAAAH   ) and polished the parts alright..., but messed up the angles of interface..., so completely ruined the full cock notch and sear where they met.  Went from a heavy trigger to a gun that wouldn't hold on full cock and/or would slip off of half-cock.  Imported parts ain't cheap nor easy to find when you're in a hurry.  As the man wrote..., you can improve a gun quite a bit, just take your time and don't overdo it!

LD

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Post by: tg on March 28, 2009, 03:24:01 PM

I am certain you have already done this but to start I would back off the lock screws and see if it is still stiff, just thought I would toss it out there, most likely you have a bit of stoning to do