Traditional Muzzleloading Association
Craftsmanship => Gun Building and Repair => Topic started by: WhiteBlanket on November 30, 2009, 02:26:29 PM
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Dear friends,
I recently purchased in a distressed situation, a .45 caliber Lancaster rifle by a member of the Contemporary Long Rifle Association - by the name of West Rowe, now gone to God - it's a splendid piece.
It's very stripy maple -someone said "plus seven" - and has both carving and engraving on it.
On the buttend of the stock, on the plate side - the side with the cheek piece, there are two small crooked cracks developing, which I imagine should be stabilized. I don't think they're going to come apart, because the bottom plate holds the two sides together. I have heard that heavily striped Maple is subject to checking and cracking, but I would not care to lose my investment in the gun.
In prior posts, I have seen both Locktite 420 and Accra- glass suggested for cracks, but not in this part of the gun. As I am rather new to this, I'm wondering if I should take care of this myself, (and so solicit your wisdom as to how to handle the problem); or is it of such a nature that I should send it out to a competent gun builder to be taken care of? Do I do nothing?
History: Wes Rowe built this in 1998 ( gun is signed on the flat). He gave/ sold this gun to a friend who sold it for a song to the guy I bought it from. This gentleman, who lives in Florida, basically did nothing with the gun for the last 10 years but store it : the frizzen is barely marked. it's in splendid condition except for a chip out over the forward trigger guard pin, a few handling and storage dings, and .... these two cracks.
The cracks are hairline... one you can miss if you don't pay attention... the one in the third picture, cutting accross the carved scroll to the cheekpiece.
This is the finest gun I have ever owned, and I would like to keep it in good condition - <img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_lol.gif" alt=":lol:" title="Laughing" /> - while I figure what to do with it.
Maybe I'll leave off selling wine and brandy and go into the gun trade...!?? LOL
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Put a bit of masking tape along crack and use super glue in several applications allowing to dry inbetween applications. It will take a while to fill but it will fill.
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From specialty woodworking catolouges such as Woodworkers supply you can get super glues that are made for woodworking and come in several different consistencies from thin to thick. Really good for filling small cracks in finished wood. Do like Fg1 said and mask off to fill. With the medium viscosity it will fill in one application may be two.
Woodman
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So the masking tape is laid around the edges of the crack in order to protect the finish?
So I fill them with the glue to the top.
Would I not get better penetration with a thinner glue?
Secondly, do I prepare the surface undeneath the tape in any ways or it does not damage the stock? Paste wax? Or just put something on the thing after I finish?
I am going to need a gunstock oil probably. I imagine it's pretty thirsty after 10 years on the shelf!
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I would keep the wax for later as not to contaminate wood before gluing. I would fill it a little proud and gently steel wool it down even. I would then do a tru oil knockdown finish to the area . Put a thin coat on and wipe it right off with a paper towel. Let dry good , buff with 0000 steel wool wipe it with tack rag , oil and wipe off . Continue untill when buffed it matched .
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Thanks, Guys! This kind of info, and the kindness and attention of the members, is what makes this board and Association so great!
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From what I see I am not so sure I would do anythng, can you find out anything about the history of the cracks, often a slight crack looks better than a repair on a fine gun.I would have a good ML builder take a look at it if one is near.
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I took it up to an specialist in Antique and Collectable arms in Lexington, KY. He priced the gun at about $1000.00, and didn't think there would be a lot of problem with the cracks. He just suggested oiling it with linseed oil. Does this sound like a plan?
I also feel I can afford to shoot the gun now! !
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I still think that if it were mine, that I'd get some glue or Acraglass in there before I oiled it.
Just my thinking.
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I'm not too sure about the super glue. I have never used it for wood repair. Super glue dries hard and brittle. Shock waves can possibly bring that crack back to life. Epoxy is what I have always used on wood. although I have never attempted repairing a cracked stock. Before attempting repair that may interfere with the rifle's value, I would investagate it a little more.
If you can find Watco Danish oill finish, you may give it a try. After the repair, of course. I really like Watco over linseed oil.
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Super Glue works great for filling small cracks, woodturners use it a lot for regluing pieces that break out when turning. There are super glues formulated specificaly for woodworking. Hot Stuff is one brand name.
Woodman
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A well known bow builder in Ohio uses super glue in different consitencies to repair cracked and delaminated bow limbs if it will do that the stock cracks should be a breeze. One word of caution watch out for that red cap extra thin I used it to foot some cedar arrows and wound up with an arrow stuck to my tee shirt
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Personally I'd leave it alone unless it's really starting to move. Wood is subject to humidity and is always expanding and contracting. Filling that tiny crack that is not a stress point could cause the dynamics of the wood to change making the tiny crack larger.
Leave it! It can only serve to add a little character and patina.
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The word super glue , makes me cringe .
While it is a CA glue , IMO it’s a cheep version of it .
If your going to glue it , I would use a Thin CA glue like Hot stuff . Which is just a brand name by the way . Use the super thin . Just a little will do
The result will be stronger then the original glue .
There are many different types of CA glues and super glue is just cheep low quality type .
Now that all being said . I would have to agree with TG . Myself I wouldn’t do anything with it .. What you have is caused by the natural aging of the wood . Feather cracks form from shrinking and expansion of the wood over time
The exception to this would be if the cracks are going all the way through the stock thus forming on the opposing side . Then you should think about stabilizing