Traditional Muzzleloading Association

Craftsmanship => Gun Building and Repair => Topic started by: david32cal on May 20, 2010, 09:05:34 PM

Title: water based stains?
Post by: david32cal on May 20, 2010, 09:05:34 PM

i have always used non grain raising alcohol based stains but recently got a bottle of Birchwood Casey Rusty Walnut stain that is water based. i did a couple of horn bases with it and realy like the way it looks but it sure does raise the grain.was thinking of useing it on a maple stock i want to finish and was looking for some helpful hints. after i get the color i want should i hit it with some 0000 steel wool to knock it back down or just use a good sealer then final finish.any help would be much appriciated...thanks!

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Post by: rickevans on May 21, 2010, 08:51:08 AM

David...I have been told, with good results, that of you raise the grain and sand/steel wool a couple times before you apply the stain that the effect of water based stain (raising the grain) is greatly reduced. I have found this to be true whem building all wood bows anyway.

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Post by: david32cal on May 21, 2010, 11:58:33 AM

yea i have been reading some online tutorials and that seems to be the way to go. i could just buy some solvent based stain but i really like the looks of this rust walnut stain,gonna look good on the little .32

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Post by: Hank in WV on May 21, 2010, 01:57:04 PM

I have found when whiskering that it helps to sand with the grain, especially on end grain. That being said, I take alcohol based stains any day.

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Post by: tall bear on May 22, 2010, 01:39:12 PM

David
I use nothing but aqua-fortis which could be classified as a water based stain as it's mostly water and acid.If you whisker the stock well before useing it you should have no problems.Make sure to degrease the steel wool before you use it as it it full of oil which can affect the final finish.

Mitch

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Post by: 2 Locks on May 22, 2010, 08:01:52 PM

I've never liked using steel wool on wood, maybe it was because I didn't know of the oil thing that Tall Bear mentioned.

I have had great success with taking my sanding to the ridiculous level - 300, then 600, then 1500 (or at least 1200).  You can usually find those really fine papers at auto parts stores.  The 600 & 1500 sandings generally go quite fast.

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Post by: woodman on May 24, 2010, 08:04:32 AM

Microscopicaly (sp) on bare wood after 120 grit there is no discernable difference  between the 120 grit and 300 grit.
     The finer grits work better after a finish has been applied.
 Woodman

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Post by: 2 Locks on May 27, 2010, 09:26:55 PM

I guess I don't know much about microscopics (sp), but I do know that I can see the difference.
I will qualify that by saying not to waste your time on softwoods or open grain hardwoods like oak & ash, but I can get really great results on birds-eye & curly maple.   I don't know about Walnut.