Traditional Muzzleloading Association

Craftsmanship => Gun Building and Repair => Topic started by: Tom A Hawk on November 21, 2010, 01:51:30 PM

Title: stock finishing
Post by: Tom A Hawk on November 21, 2010, 01:51:30 PM

I'am hoping some one can point me in the right direction, I have a very nice curly maple stock waiting to be finished. I tried using aquafortis and hab bad results, no fault of the aquafortis only me not knowing how to use it.
       After finish sanding I wiped on the aquafortis, let it soak in a few hours, then went over it lightly with propane torch. It looked greyish and brown, just not good.
        After much sanding I'am back where I started. Any ideas what I did wrong? ( most likely lots of things wrong) Oh well any help much appreciated.
                                          Thanks
                                                              Tom A Hawk

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Post by: pathfinder on November 21, 2010, 02:19:09 PM

I apply heat while its still wet,and I use a paint removing heat gun,more control of the heat. Wash the stock with baking soda to neutralize the acid before continuing,you may have a green stock later if you don't.

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Post by: Capt. Jas. on November 21, 2010, 02:35:09 PM

Whisker the stock multiple times until it does not raise.
Apply the nitric.
Let it dry
Heat with a heat gun on low
Be careful of carving and raised edges
keep it moving
coat the stock heavily with linseed and heat any areas that need blending

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Post by: Tom A Hawk on November 21, 2010, 04:34:11 PM

Pathfinder & Capt.Jas.
       Your right it did start to turn green, but I was lucky and got it all off. I believe I will try heating before it is dry and see what happens only this time on a piece of scrap. Think a hair dryer might work? I will try it.

                            Thanks for your help.
                                   Tom A Hawk

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Post by: Capt. Jas. on November 21, 2010, 04:51:48 PM

It's going to look and ugly  green until you heat it enough. Buy a 10.00 heat gun.
Keep it moving so you do not scorch the wood.

I do not neutralize.

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Post by: Capt. Jas. on November 21, 2010, 04:56:45 PM

It's going to look ugly and green until you heat it enough. Buy a 10.00 heat gun.
Keep it moving so you do not scorch the wood.
Add the linseed and blend.

I do not neutralize.


(http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj136/fowling_gun/Abbitt%20Loooong%20Shotgun/100_0928.jpg)

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Post by: wwpete52 on November 23, 2010, 01:06:38 PM

Yes, use a heat gun like everyone is saying.  Apply the aquafortis and start heating. There is no need to let it sit.  Start heating right away.

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Post by: Firewalker on November 23, 2010, 08:54:43 PM

Just a personal preference. I don't like linseed oil as I have found it can leave a gummy residue over time.
This was given to me by a black powder gunsmith and gun maker, I really like the finish.
"Take a teaspoon full of tung oil & put it in a jar lid. Take some Japan Drier & put 2 drops of that in the tung oil in the lid, take a screwdriver blade & stir it in. Now apply that with your fingertip & rub in 1 drop at a time til dry working about a 6" place at a time, the last couple strokes of your fingertip should be with the grain of the wood. Do this til you have covered the stock. Depending on the humidity of the atmosphere you are working there, you should be able to recoat in 8 hrs, possibly sooner. I been putting together guns and furniture for about 35years.  Tong oil and Japan dryer is about the best advice I've heard in all those years. I tried it and it works phenomenal. Can't beleive anything so easy gives such a nice finish."
Again just my opinion and experience.

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Post by: Capt. Jas. on November 23, 2010, 09:45:24 PM

My mention of linseed was not as a wood finish but as part of the nitric process.

I do use a linseed varnish though like originals.

I don't consider "boiled" linseed from the store as a finish.

I have seen some pretty finishes with tung and with tung compounds and do use it sometimes on modern pieces where authenticity is not critical.

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Post by: Firewalker on November 23, 2010, 10:08:20 PM

Quote from: "Capt. Jas."

My mention of linseed was not as a wood finish but as part of the nitric process.

I do use a linseed varnish though like originals.

I don't consider "boiled" linseed from the store as a finish.

I have seen some pretty finishes with tung and with tung compounds and do use it sometimes on modern pieces where authenticity is not critical.

My only experience was with boiled linseed.
I like the tung oil, but then I'm more concerned with a "functional" finish and not necessarily functional and authentic.
Whatever floats your boat.

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Post by: pathfinder on November 24, 2010, 06:10:20 AM

Whatever floats your boat.[/quote]

Pretty much! I've been a professional finisher for better than 45 years,and all the standard finishes work well. You can achive any look you want with any of the finishes with the application process and rubing out afterwards. Even marine spar varnish can look like hand rubbed Tung oil when applied correctly,although it does take a certain "touch" that it seems only experiance can teach.

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Post by: Capt. Jas. on November 24, 2010, 07:39:52 AM

yep I even like the glossy finishes on the old Remingtons : )

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Post by: Tom A Hawk on December 12, 2010, 02:01:52 PM

I would like to thank every one for the replys
 I will try and use some of all replys and see what happens, but for now I might just wait a bit, till I get the nerve to try again.

                      Again thanks a lot
                                                     Tom

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Post by: Riley/MN on December 12, 2010, 02:04:57 PM

Quote from: "Tom A Hawk"

but for now I might just wait a bit, till I get the nerve to try again.

C'mon cowboy, get back on that horse...