Traditional Muzzleloading Association

Traditional Firearms => Caplock Long Guns => Topic started by: greyhunter on January 01, 2011, 09:31:48 AM

Title: Renegade lock
Post by: greyhunter on January 01, 2011, 09:31:48 AM
My daughter bought a new, unfired TC Renegade two years ago from one of our local club members. It has developed a problem with the lock. We set the rear trigger then when she pulls the front trigger it falls to half cock and won't strike the frizzen. When you just pull the front trigger, it fires ok.I have polished the plates that hold the sear etc. and for awhile it worked, now it's back to stopping at half cock again. Don't know now if it is because I oiled the fly too much, or shouldnt have or what. Would send to TC but technically she is not first owner. Ideas?
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Post by: BEAVERMAN on January 01, 2011, 10:13:04 AM
Doesn't matter if shes the first owner or not,#1 they don't know that, #2 tc's have a lifetime warranty, GH I'd make sure that the mounting bolt for the lock was not over tight, I've seen this happen when folks torque down that mounting bolt and actually flex the lock plate causing everything to bind
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Post by: Firewalker on January 01, 2011, 10:34:51 AM
I wouldn't send it off to T/C. They may not be doing any repair work again. I talked to a guy yesterday who's good friend worked in the custom shop at T/C. It seems S&W has them closed down pretty tight. I heard some stuff I didn't know.
I would think as Beav said maybe the screws are too tight and the bridle is pinching the fly. At any rate it sounds like something is inhibiting the fly from dropping down.
Ask Captchee he may know or have some other idea's.
The other thing that comes to mind is maybe the back spring on the set trigger isn't moving the sear up quite far enough. Had that happen once when the screw loosened up.
Just a thought.
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Post by: Bigsmoke on January 01, 2011, 10:52:44 AM
Quote from: "Firewalker"
At any rate it sounds like something is inhibiting the fly from dropping down.
.

Don't you just hate it when that happens? :lol:
Title: renegade
Post by: greyhunter on January 01, 2011, 10:55:20 AM
Yeah, I'm a little antsy about S&W, I will not send it to them. I read somewhere that bridle screws are set at certain torque/depth. I will recheck them. Last time I tightened them the lock worked good for awhile then back to sos. I had lock all apart last year and cleaned/scrubbed it will try that again, plus blue loctite on bridle screws, unless someone else chimes in. Thanks GH.
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Post by: Two Steps on January 01, 2011, 01:12:17 PM
GH...maybe ya could try turning the lock mounting screw back a little bit.  It doesn't take much for it to put the lock in a bind...
Al
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Post by: Uncle Russ on January 01, 2011, 02:14:58 PM
Quote from: "Two Steps"
GH...maybe ya could try turning the lock mounting screw back a little bit.  It doesn't take much for it to put the lock in a bind...
Al

That right there would be my best guess without having the gun in my hand.

Al is absolutely right! Often, and I mean very often, as little as 1/4 turn on the screw can make a huge difference.

BTW; I got a new old lock from T/C this past July or August, only cost me the postage of sending the old one back....and that all happen within a week of me sending the old one out.
I got two absolutely free thimbles w/screws in Oct. just for a phone call, and around the 1st of December, I talked to T/C Service Dept.about a rear sight and they said to just send them the old one, which I had planned on doing the first of the year, like within the next week or two.

I believe their "new" web site says T/C is owned by S&W, and their warranty clearly reads "Limited Lifetime Warranty of the original owner"....I just noticed this today when I was looking for something else.
I can't swear to it, but I strongly believe their entire web site is new...new as in about a month or less old, but it may just look new to me.
IMO, the only thing that looked even vaguely familiar was the FAQ's and the thing about "Natural 1000 lube"....I always have to wonder about that firing of 1,000 shots, without wiping, and still have a SD (standard deviation) of 8.5 or something. That continues to amaze me!

Still yet, after all this babble, I do believe something is up with T/C..

My notes show the last time I called the Service dept. the number I used was 866-730-1614.

It may well be worth a call, after the holidays come to an end next week,  and just flat-out ask the question...is you is or is you ain't?.

Just my thoughts.

Uncle Russ...
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Post by: greyhunter on January 01, 2011, 03:20:14 PM
Ok, I will try the lock screw, tho I have always been careful about that just for the sake of denting the stock if nothing else. It's something simple I'm sure and I'm just missing it yet.  It's weird, it will work as it should for a few shots, then hang up. Course on the bright side it's the only way I can outshoot my daughter is when it screws up and she has ta yank the front trigger. I should'nt a taught her so good. :)
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Post by: MedicineSoldier on January 04, 2011, 12:08:04 AM
greyhunter,

If you have no luck with the lock bolts you may try the following....if I can explain it so it makes sense ..... it has been a number of years since I owned a T/C but I had the same problem.

Remove the lock.  There is a plate held in place by two screws over the sear, etc.  Check those screws to assure they are snug and that the plate sets in place as it should.  If I remember correctly I ended up using lock tite on mine and I saw the same problem on another rifle.

If they are loose I think that it would compound any problem brought on by the lock bolts tweaking the lock.

Medicine Soldier
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Post by: Bigsmoke on January 04, 2011, 01:22:30 AM
Russ,
When the Lee family owned Ox Yoke, I visited their facility one time.  I was given a tour of the place and down in the basement they have a firing range set up.  They said this was where the 1000 shot test took place.
I gave them my opinion that yes, sure, it probably happened, but, it wasn't with real life charges, it was probably with a 25 grain charge of Ffffg.  That was neither admitted or argued that, but the little smile I got spoke volumes.  hmmmmmmmmmmmm...
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Post by: greyhunter on January 04, 2011, 02:46:24 AM
Adjusted trigger set screw and lock is firing as it should now. Also polished bridle plate and tightened those two screws. Not sure which did it but I painted set screw head to hold it. Time will tell, thanks guys.
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Post by: Captchee on January 04, 2011, 08:26:16 AM
Yep a lot of things are changing with TC so ??

 the other folks here have given some good advise . but here is what i would check first . exspecialy take not of the trigger set screw . it may be out of adjustment alittle

I would also pull the triggers . The screw holding the trigger main spring can sometimes back out . This causes the back trigger  to not hit the sear with enough force . Thus the sear catches the  fly at an awkward angle and binds up .
 If the spring is tight on the trigger then go to B)

  B)  when the lock  catches at the ½ cock , carefully pull the lock  off .
  Take note of where the sear is .
 Is it in the ½ cock  or is it catching the fly ?
 a) if it in the half cock then your fly is gummed up  and not doing its job . It must move  easily . To much lube or a little grime and it will not work properly  
b) if it on the fly then the fly may have  developed a small  burr that’s catching the sear .look closely . The edge of the fly that the sear contacts , must be smooth . Any burr along its edge will grab the sear . . If you see a burr , take a diamond stone and lightly touch it up. don’t take anymore off the fly then whats needed to remove the burr .


 I would also  look at the face of your sear . Over time  catching the half cock  or fly to often , can damage the face of the sear . It should also not have a burr  or chip on its edge
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Post by: Mustang on January 24, 2011, 07:53:39 PM
I am going to agree with Captchee on this one. I believe you have gummed up parts. Clean thoroughly with brake cleaner. Do check for any burrs that may have formed from the lock not functioning properly.

BTW, if you decide to send it to TC, don't modify anything, nothing. Don't even polish it.
They now require you to register your gun for warranty work but it's probably worth a try if cleaning doesn't work. TC is a good company and has gone the extra mile for me.
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Post by: Gordon H.Kemp on January 24, 2011, 10:37:27 PM
Just a reminder , but I see you are in N.PA. and the change in temp. and humidity as the cold weather sets in can cause things like flys to stick if they are oiled . Also the wood stock can swell and cause the lock mounting bolt to become tighter. in really cold weather Its best to have the lock inards nearly free from oils .
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Post by: brewyak on January 27, 2011, 04:34:06 PM
I noticed that you are from NE PA make a trip to Dixon's in Kempton.  They will be able to send you in the right direction if you can't figure it out yourself
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Post by: greyhunter on January 27, 2011, 05:14:08 PM
Thanks for all the info! Check out my post under hunting, made meat two. Her renegade is working real good! It was just a small adjustment of the trigger screw, I doped it so it won't move again.
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Post by: James Kelly on February 12, 2011, 02:29:21 PM
Glad to hear it works now. Have seen T/C Hawkens with same problem. My T/C Patriot also just stopped at half cock. I do lock work with the same skill as I have in brain surgery, so took it to Anson Morgan's Kenockee Trading Post here in Michigan. As I recall there is a short little rod between scear spring and scear. Whereever it is, Anson carefully took off .010 or .015", disremember exactly how much, and now it works.

This is too vague to be meant as a recipie for fixing a T/C lock, just to let you know there is another area to consider if your problem comes back.