Traditional Muzzleloading Association
Craftsmanship => Gun Building and Repair => Topic started by: baloubear on January 16, 2011, 02:22:30 AM
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I've got some unique requirements for my next hunting rifle. A lefthand hawken/jaeger in 58 or 62 caliber with a conical friendly twist. Iron furniture and a nice single trigger at a crisp 4 pounds pull. A local shop in Springfield Oregon carries all the parts, but this is my first non-kit build, so I'd like some assurance that the parts will work together! Maybe some builder with experience could recommend a shopping list. I'm pretty sure I could follow the fine instruction provided in the sticky notes to produce a functional if not marketable rifle
blood on your shoes,
-Brian
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First I would tell you that even though these are called kits , they are not kits but parts assemblies. Be ready for a lot of inletting , drilling . Not to mention dovetailing of the barrel for the lugs and sights
You might talk with Joe and his wife there at the emporium . They are good folks .
Joe also runs Oregon barrels so he can do you up a barrel if need be .
So go in and have a cup of coffee . Joe like to talk so have him show you what they assemblies actually entail
Now you say Hawkens/ Jaeger rifle . Is this to be a hunting gun or something closely historically correct ?
While Jaeger means hunter , a Jaeger isn’t a Hawkens nor is a Hawkens a Jaeger .
If it were I who was building your rifle , this is what I would suggest.
A plains style double pinned stock as a base .
This IMO needs to be of good wood . Not run of the mill maple . It needs to be dense and heavy blank . Personally , I would not get that from Joe . but he may have something that will work for you . If you go with a pre carve from Joe make double sure the grain run through the wrist proper . Very ,very important for what your doing
Now you say conical friendly . Are we talking solid lead conical ?
Is the gun to be a dedicated conical shooter ?
If so then I would go a 1 in 36 or a slower 1 in 48 twist . If its to be both RB and conical , then I would go with the 1 in 48 twist .
For a barrel I would go 58 cal swamped barrel in 34-36 inch length “ 37 would be my preference with under rib and a snail type breech .”properly faced “ .
the 58 will give you a few choices of marketed conical design . vs. the 62 is going to be basically a custom bullet . What im getting at here is the 58 cal will give you a readily available group of projectiles ranging from 300-530 grains to chose from . This is important because it gives you a better choice to find what your new rifle likes to eat .
Your wont find that in the 62.
For a lock I would go with a Davis or chambers lock. An L&R would also be ok . But IMO the Davis and chambers locks are far better locks and only cost a little more .
Also Davis makes a lock , breech and tang set that all match .
A good set of Davis double set “double bar” triggers . Thus you will get the option to either use a hair trigger or a more heavy hunting trigger .
if you want the single trigger i would have a return spring added .
this will help reduce any play in the trigger as well as hold it tight to the sear .
i would also add in a large loop trigger guard for the single trigger . that way if your wearing gloves your finger will more easly fit
The sights are really up to you . Especially if your not trying to follow a historic example closely . So you could go with say a standard fixed open sight .Or you could even go with the later Winchester style leaf sight found on the later Hawkens rifles .
For hardware the only recommendation I would give is to not go with a deep cresant butt plate . You want something more mellow .
The reason I say this is from the photo you posted in the hunting section , you look like a heavy built fella . You need a rifle with the proper drop and pull . If you don’t get that and you add in a deep cresant butt plate it libel to be alittle uncomfortable shooting with heavier loads .
the rifle is still going to be nose heavy . but you should be able to come in in the 9-10lb range
now the trick is going to be finding that barrel in a good lenght , with the proper twist to get the wait down
you could go shorter with a strait barrel though .
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Concur that The Gun Works is good people and very helpful.
I'd talk with Joe and see if he can set you up with parts for a left hand version of their English Sporting rifle.
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Yep, Joe and Suzie are good folks for sure!
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Thanks for the advice Captchee and others. That's just what I was looking for. Springfield is 2 hours south, but it sounds like it's well worth the drive. This would indeed be a dedicated hunting rifle, so a shotgun butt is my intention. Crescent buttplates are nice to look at, but I can't imagine shooting a big gun with one of those. In fact I really dislike the hooked one on my Anshutz 1813 for the same reasons you mention. It doesn't fit my shoulder. Those smallbore wimps need to do more pushups... I digress.
As far as sights go, I like the ones on my M1 Garand the best
. The first attempt will be a nice thick post up front with a buckhorn rear, we'll see if I can hit anything with those.
The projectile will be a conical. Balls are terrific up close, but even in the tight woods (brush) of the Oregon coast, the average shot is around 100 yards, so I imagine the retained energy of the conical is going to work better.
It's good to know there are double sets with a reasonable non-set mode. The few I've tried haven't impressed me.
No doubt, I am looking at a difficult project and have no illusions of creating a masterpiece, but with a daughter headed to Oregon State University next year, a custom built rifle for a tag I may not draw is not in the cards, besides that, I like difficult projects that are over my head.
Best regards,
-Brian