Traditional Muzzleloading Association

Craftsmanship => Gun Building and Repair => Topic started by: Loyalist Dave on March 11, 2011, 10:56:33 AM

Title: Preferred Stains?
Post by: Loyalist Dave on March 11, 2011, 10:56:33 AM

What do you folks prefer?  An alcohol based stain like Fiebings for gunstocks?  Any thoughts on oil based stains like from Minwax?  Or something altogether different?  I plan to finish the stock with 50/50 turpentine and BLO, one or two coats, followed by Tung Oil, as recommended in a previous thread, but the coloring part is what I am plumbing for opinions on.  

THANKS  

LD

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Post by: Mitch on March 11, 2011, 03:10:22 PM

since I work in a BenjaminMoore paint store, I use benwood penetrating stains-solvent based,fairly easy to control and it's right in front of me!! I also "custom mix or tint" stain on a regular basis for customers...it's not a fast finish stain, nor is it a "one coat and your done" stain....I like it

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Post by: Capt. Jas. on March 11, 2011, 11:01:29 PM

Nitric and Fiebings combos. I find the leather dyes to be better than the gun stock designated stains. I would stay away from minwax stuff unless you want it to look like it was stained with minwax.  You might be able to get away with it on something like walnut but there are much better choices.

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Post by: ridjrunr on March 11, 2011, 11:22:45 PM

Yup what Capt. Jas. said. One puts alot into projects,  why use a cheepo stain. My recent cva posting was my very first building project and I am happy as pie with LMF that I used. Back acouple yrs ago when I was working on it a friend talked me out of minwax and I am glad he did.

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Post by: Loyalist Dave on March 13, 2011, 11:06:46 AM

Thanks for the replies.  It's not really a question of "cheap" for Fiebing's in my area is less expensive than the small can of Minwax.  I was just curious as I saw on the label for Minwax while doing an oak table top, that it was oil based.  Other stains are alcohol, ammonia, or water based.  In the past I have finished the process on a gunstock with plain BLO, but from a previous thread I learned that mixing it 50/50 with turpentine was better, and following with a coat of tung oil with the shine knocked down with 4-0 steel wool is better than the plain BLO.  Thanks for sharing.  

LD

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Post by: Hank in WV on March 13, 2011, 04:42:15 PM

I tend to like alcohol stains like LMF or Danglers best. If the first coat isn't dark enough, a second coat seems to darken the wood better than an oil based stain. I follow up with Formbys satin finish tung oil.

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Post by: Osprey on March 13, 2011, 08:10:56 PM

I use LMF, solarlux or Muzzleloader Builders Suppy alcohol base stains, sometimes using 3+ applications of different colors.  I still use TruOil if I want a bright finish, but mainly use Chamber oil finish for a satin look.

Title: Re: Preferred Stains?
Post by: Loyalist Dave on April 07, 2011, 02:21:34 PM

HEY you guys didn't tell me that BLO with turpentine off-gases!  Man I gawt a head-ayk when I puht awn da firs coat!  Prolly got zum dain brammage :)

LD

Title: Re: Preferred Stains?
Post by: Captchee on April 07, 2011, 09:37:52 PM

for maple , i use Fiebings and fortis .
to me oil based stains make maple look muddy
 i also have used a few  natural stains and tars .
 water based stains IMO are a recipe for disaster
walnut , IMO doesnt need a stain . it will naturly darken and inhance with oil

 dave
shhhhhhhhhh, and open the window .
 no mater what you mix turpintine with , it smells
oh and dont light a match lol

Title: Re: Preferred Stains?
Post by: Indiana on April 09, 2011, 06:27:08 PM

I like the Laurel Mountain Forge stains.  Good color and penetration.  I'm also a fan of aqua fortis--gives beautiful colors.

Title: Re: Preferred Stains?
Post by: FlintSteel on May 28, 2011, 07:10:51 PM

I like the Laurel Mountain Forge stains. covered with Chambers Traditional Oil Finish.

Title: Re: Preferred Stains?
Post by: Pete_Sheeran on November 02, 2011, 07:48:28 PM

FlintSteel,
Your choice is the same as mine!  I like the Laurel Mountain Forge stains, especially Nut Brown. covered with Chambers Traditional Oil Finish.  Both give a pleasing reddish color to the stock.  

Diluted Nitric Acid is great, but you have to work a test peice as almost every maple stock will be a slightly different color.  If you want it dark, just add some iron to the nitric acid but once again, be sure to do a test piece from your stock's cut off pieces.  Too much iron will make it almost black and hide that great curly maple!

On plain Jane English or Black  walnut, I like to use the Chambers Traditional Oil to give the stock more character in the reddish color.  I build it up in streaks, following the grain.  This can be done much quicker with a stain but I perfer to build up the color a little at a time with the Chambers Traditional Oil Finish unless I want very prominent streaks (some walnut has these streaks, very dark,  dark brown, and reddish streaks,  very pretty stuff).

Pete