Traditional Muzzleloading Association

Shooting Traditional Firearms and Weapons => General Interest => Topic started by: rickevans on May 07, 2012, 12:35:40 PM

Title: Going old school...
Post by: rickevans on May 07, 2012, 12:35:40 PM
My older Centermark Fusil de Tulle was shooting ok wit ha patched ball, but I'd liek to try the old(er) school old school process. No patching, just some wadding over the [powder and over the ball.

Those of you who run this way, where do you start?

I was using a .610 RB with .018 patching. It was tight down the bore, so I bought some .600 RB.  It shot well, but I never really shot much past 50 yards.

Yesterday at the range I thought I'd try something new, so with 70gr of 2F, a 1/8" carboard wad over the powder and one of those .600 RB rattling down the bore and another lubed 1/8" over the ball, I got 8" groups off-hand at 50 yards.

What to wad with?   Wasp/hornet nest? Old leaves, grass, moss?

Pathfinder, are you out there? I might need a smoothbore session at the range.
Title: Re: Going old school...
Post by: pathfinder on May 07, 2012, 01:01:08 PM
Let me know when and were! Go back to the .610's and just use wadding. Waspnest,grass.beaver hair,ect........

 In a barre lthat was excavated at the Grand Portage site in the Rainey River area,one barrel was "disected" and was found to be loaded with "buckshot"(sorry dont re-call the size) and was wadded with Beaver hair,according to the scientific test's.

I like using the tight fit patched ball method when competting, I LIKE WINNING!!!!,and want the most accurate shot placement when hunting!

A couple of trade gun partners of mine and myself will at time limit ourselve's to traditional bare ball and wadding on some wood's walk's,when one of us feel's as though his "Cahonie's" are getting a little large in the breach cloth area. That load when yer use to patched ballload will soon even everything out!

Which bring's up another point on shooting I'll continue in the "Shooting"area. See ya over there!
Title: Re: Going old school...
Post by: rickevans on May 07, 2012, 01:06:29 PM
Thanks....
Title: Re: Going old school...
Post by: pathfinder on May 07, 2012, 01:37:45 PM
Shouldn't you be working?
Title: Re: Going old school...
Post by: rickevans on May 07, 2012, 09:15:11 PM
Lunch time...
Title: Re: Going old school...
Post by: Capt. Jas. on May 07, 2012, 09:20:10 PM
Or buy a trash bag of tow so you can wad AND clean with it : )
Title: Re: Going old school...
Post by: rickevans on May 08, 2012, 08:22:01 AM
Was thinking of using some un-twined hemp rope. I bought some to use in my fire kit. Spent a long while unraveling it all and making nice looking fuzzy bundles. Then...found that it is evidently treated with some kinda fire-preventer because it'll catch a spark and smoke all day long... But REFUSES TO FLAME UP!  Uh, oh, sorry.  I'll try some of that and see how well she does with some hemp wadding.

I will also go back to a larger more-to-bore-size CRB...
Title: Re: Going old school...
Post by: Hanshi on May 08, 2012, 02:42:45 PM
I like wasp/hornet nest; I consider it "revenge". :hairy
Title: Re: Going old school...
Post by: rickevans on May 08, 2012, 02:52:05 PM
Me too when I can find it. I was surprised at how tough it really was.
Title: Re: Going old school...
Post by: Buzzard on May 11, 2012, 03:54:53 PM
Couple of other suggestions: the thin, ribboney bark from cedar trees and grapevines work very well. The inner bark of cottonwood trees will also work.
Title: Re: Going old school...
Post by: rickevans on May 14, 2012, 09:32:25 AM
I picked up a small hornets nest this weekend.  Also have a bag of real rough flax tow to try. Inner bark form white cedar too...The goal here is to have a real traditional hunting load ready for the fall. I am going to hunt the deer this year. Or else.
Title: Re: Going old school...
Post by: Longhunter on May 14, 2012, 04:32:37 PM
Rick, last weekend I played with some RB loads out of my new Centermark Fusil. I had .590, .595, .600, and .610 balls in my shooting box. My first try was 80gr 2FF, OP card, .610 bare ball and OS card. At 50yds it shot 4" low...dead line. I was holding so I couldn't see any of the barrel, just the shadow of the tang screw and the front bead. Next shot was 90gr 2FF, OP card, .610 (I had to push the ball down in the fowled barrel), OS card. I held so I could see the barrel and it hit the 4" bulls eye. The 3rd shot did the same, 2" from the last shot. I was so tickled that I called Paul Siefert to tell him that he make a SHOOTER.

I tried a .600 patched ball and didn't get any better accuracy. I've got both wasp nest and tow so I'll be trying both of those to work up a hunting load.

I wrote a little ditty about the gun...

This gun she is a sweetheart, she shoots right where she should
She's plain with iron fittins and some right nice purdy wood

With ninety grains of powder an a hundred grains of shot
    a turkey under 40 yards is destined for the pot

  An with ninety grains of powder behind a .610  ball
   a whitetail under a hundred yards is surly gonna fall

This gun is all I'll ever need to take on any critter
She's a shootin Jessie  that's fer sure, a genuine game gitter  
Title: Re: Going old school...
Post by: mario on May 14, 2012, 06:37:15 PM
I generally use a .600" ball and wadding of tow or paper.

Here is a bunch of info I've collected over the last few years on what was used in the 18th/19th century:

“Now search for Tow, and some old Saddle pierce:
No Wadding lies so close or drives so fierce.”

Pterypegia, or the Art of shooting Flying, 1727

It is the General's orders, that none of the men load with cartridges upon their regimental
parades but from these powder horns; AND TO HAVE WADDING ABOVE AND BELOW THE BALL, TO KEEP BOTH POWDER AND BALL FIRM IN THEIR PIECES." [emphasis mine]

John Knox, 1759 (Knox, pg 259)

“I observed here a kind of Moss I had never seen before; it grows in great Quantities upon the large Trees, and hangs down 3 or 4 Yards from the Boughs; it gives a noble, ancient and hoary Look to the Woods; it is of a whitish green Colour, but when dried, is black like Horse-hair. This the Indians use for wadding their Guns, and making their Couches soft under the Skins of Beasts, which serve them for beds. They use it also for Tinder, striking Fire by flashing the Pans of their Guns into a handful of it, and for all other Uses where old Linnen would be necessary.”

Moore, Francis. A Voyage to Georgia, Begun in the Year 1735. London: Jacob Robinson, 1744.


"...and Wadding equivalent to such cartridges..."

NY Militia Law, April 3, 1778



"A Winnipeg River find in 1967 proved to be a typical Northwest gun...charged with 22 dropped shot...with wadding probably of beaver hair."

Voices from the Rapids (Wheeler, 81)

"This charge was held in place by coarse cloth wadding...believe it dates from about 1820, plus or minus 10 years."
Granite River find, Voices from the Rapids(Wheeler, 67)

"...on being loaded to four inches including powder, shot &wadding..."

Philip Turnor, Letter to London Offices of HBC, 1779 (Tyrell, 258)

“As you might expect, parts from many Type G trade guns have been recovered in FL. I think the one that you are referring to and the one that is the most complete is the piece recovered from the Suwannee River at Running Springs by a river diver back in 2005. It was marked “Williams” on the lock, but no proof marks were found discernable on the barrel. It was 24 gauge or .58 cal. and the barrel was 46 ½” in length. It was octagon to round with a diameter of 1.2” at the breech. It was found loaded with a ball that looked to have been whittled down in size and palm or palmetto fiber appeared to be the wadding.”

E-mail from James Levy, a conservator working for the State of Florida.

We have now to speak of another species of wadding, which has novelty, at least, to recommend it ; but, in truth, it may be preferred to hat-wadding, for the principles of that equally apply to this, and it possesses one great advantage in the circumstance of not fouling the barrel so much as the other. The wadding to which we allude, is made of the cloth called fear-naught, or shepherd's cloth, which is very generally known, fitted to the bore of the piece by a punch; but it must not be dyed, for the acid which is said to set the colour, will rust the inside of the barrel immediately in contact with it, and especially if the gun is laid by charged. –
The Sporting Magazine October 1793



 "By some persons much confidence has been placed in card, by others pieces of hat, or leather, cut to fit the bore exactly by an instrument for that purpose; but for these the cap of the ram-rod must be made nearly as large as the bore, in order to force them down even; and become difficult to ram down, when the gun is somewhat foul, besides occasioning delay when expedition is required. Tow and pieces of woollen cloth have also been used; but I have never found any thing so proper as a double piece of thin soft paper; this should be rammed down with some force upon the powder, and a stiffer paper upon the shot, in like manner; for the closer the charge is connected together, the greater will be the force:"
   Montagu's Sportman's Directory 1792, pg 140 (Courtesy of Jim Mullins)

“Tow, I think, is uncertain. If cards be used, the end of your rammer must be almost as broad as your barrel will admit of, to go down free, and quite flat at the end, to prevent the card from turning. Old hat may be used in the same manner, which is rather better: and some say leather shreds are best. But I can not yet find any thing better, or so ready as thin brown paper, rubbed soft, and cut into pieces about one inch broad and two inches long; so that when it is once doubled, it is an inch square. I punch a small hole at the corner of each piece, put a sufficient quantity upon a key ring, hand them into my button-hole, and tear off one as I want it..."
Art of Shooting flying 1770 by T. Page Norwich, pg 9 (Courtesy of Jim Mullins)

"WADDING. MANY fportfmen are of opinion, that the wadding, of whatever material it may be compofed, or whether it be rammed loofe, or tight, into the barrel, has no effecT;, either on the range of the fhot, or the clofenefs with which they are thrown. Now, although it may be granted, that the material which covers the fhot, and which is ufed only for the purpofe of keeping it down, is of little importance*tance, yet, the fubftance which covers the powder, is, undoubtedly, of much confequence. It mould be quite clofe in the barrel, and that without being rammed too hard ; the wadding fhould therefore be of a foft and tractable material, but at the fame time of fiifficient confiftence, to carry the mot in a body, to a certain diftance from the muzzle of the piece. For, if the wadding is rammed too clofe, or is of a hard and rigid fubftance, fuch as ftiff brown paper, the piece will recoil, and the mot will fpread more wide : if, on the contrary, the wadding is not fufficiently clofe, and is compofed of a flight and too pliant a material, fiich as wool or cotton, it will not be of confiftence enough to carry the mot, and the difcharge will lofe its proper force. Befides, a certain portion of { he mot which is more immediately inin' contact with the wadding, will be melted by the explofion of the powder. In the former part of this treatife, where we treated of the Jbot of fowling- pieces, we have given our reafom for preferring wadding made of hat, by means of a punch fitted to the bore of the piece, to every other ; but as this is not eafily procured in fufficient quantity, we muft employ fomething that is at once cheap, and adequate to the purpofe. Next to hat, therefore, experience teaches, that nothing is better for wadding than foft brown paper; it combines fupplenefs with confiftence, and moulds itfelf to the barrel ; and it is further obfervable, that fuch wadding never falls to the ground, in lefs than twelve or fifteen paces from the

In countries where orchards abound, a very fine moss, of a greenish grey colour, is found adhering to the apple- trees, which is extremely proper for wadding, and which even possesses the extraordinary quality, of making the barrel less greasy and foul than paper, which always contains a certain quantity of oil. Tow is also very good for this purpose. Wool is nothing worth. A cork wadding has been extolled for the virtue of increasing the range and closeness of the shot of pieces; we have not made the experiment, but it seems probable, that a wadding of cork, adapted to the caliber of the piece may produce a greater effect, than a wadding of paper, in this respect, that by stopping the barrel more hermetically, it prevents the elastic fluid, produced by the explosion muzzle of the piece. lafion of the powder, from, escaping in any way, between the partition of wadding and the charge, and preserves all its force to the mouth of the gun. These principles have been already applied to the wadding of hat, and to which therefore we refer the reader.

An Essay on Shooting
CONTAINING:
The various Methods of forging, boring, and drefling Gun Barrels, practifed in France, Spain, and England, and the different Proofs of Barrels employed in thofe Countries
; Edie, 1787 (Courtesy of Jim Mullins)



Mario
Title: Re: Going old school...
Post by: rickevans on May 15, 2012, 08:39:31 AM
Many thanks Mario for the research and good information.  There seems to be a whole lot of opinions and suggestions there.  I have read before of the use of paper squares, lubed or waxed and toted  as noted above with a string through a hole on one corner. I supppose a source for that paper would be old hand bills and news print? I'll look into that. Also sounds like I need to hit the Thrift Stores for some old felt hats!
Title: Re: Going old school...
Post by: Ironhand on May 15, 2012, 02:10:25 PM
Quote from: "rickevans"
Also sounds like I need to hit the Thrift Stores for some old felt hats!

You might also look for old felt boot liners. They usually give a thicker wad.

Ironhand
Title: Re: Going old school...
Post by: greyhunter on May 16, 2012, 07:12:10 AM
I use the old sorel felt boot liners for wads also. Punch them out with a punch made from a spent CO2 cylinder. Thanks Captchee for the tip. Also punch out cardboard wads with the CO2 punch. Soak felt wads in olive oil, then squeeze out. Make sure to use a waxed card over powder, then felt wad,bare ball, wasp nest over ball or another waxed card.   :shake
Title: Re: Going old school...
Post by: rickevans on May 16, 2012, 08:27:05 AM
The goal here, for me anyway, is to do some research on general methods of loading the smoothbore as was done in the 18th century (1750-1790) with period correct accouterments.

Wads from old felted hats? Sure. The fear-naught, or shepherd's cloth that Mario's citation references is "A stout kind of woolen cloth, used chiefly on board ship in the form of outside clothing in the most inclement weather,..." A New English Dictionary on Historical Principles: Founded Mainly ..., Volume 4, page 116
So, heavy woolen patches? OK. Tow, moss, leaves, bracken fern (here in northern Michigan...) all good. Even paper folded up and lubed(?).

Speaking with a friend on the phone about this yesterday, I would shoot the fusil with a good, tight, properly lubed patched RB to see just how accurate the weapon could be, then use various PC/HC methods to see how accuracy changed.  Remember, the goal is to take a fat deer this fall, in conditions and with tools common to that time frame.

More to come.
Title: Re: Going old school...
Post by: rickevans on May 16, 2012, 08:39:32 AM
Mario...
Do I understand this quote accurately in that in this instance, the men were to load from pouch and horn, and NOT use their stash of made up paper cartridges? Also, the fact that the Generals orders are to have wadding above and below the ball might indicate that such was not always the common practice?  

"It is the General's orders, that none of the men load with cartridges upon their regimental
parades but from these powder horns; AND TO HAVE WADDING ABOVE AND BELOW THE BALL, TO KEEP BOTH POWDER AND BALL FIRM IN THEIR PIECES." [emphasis mine]

John Knox, 1759 (Knox, pg 259)