Traditional Muzzleloading Association
Craftsmanship => Accoutrements => Topic started by: greyhunter on December 22, 2012, 09:57:50 PM
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Ok leathercrafters, where do you purchase your leather stitch punches? I am making a few knife sheaths and have a sailmakers sewing tool, but will need to get a punch to keep the stitches equally spaced. Thanks, GH
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I use the 4 tine thonging chisle from Tandy. Hobby lobby has them for $4.95
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Thanks, Path!
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There are in fact a couple of ways to keep your stitches even:
1) The stitch marking tool that uses a small wheel at various sizes such as 6 stitches per inch (probably the most common size used today). A variant is the overstitch wheel which can be used both as a stitch marker but also used after sewing to smooth out the stitches - thus the name over stitch wheel. I recommend getting a decent quality such as those by CS Osborne - unfortunately the ones currently available from Tandy/LF leave a lot to be desired and those ones with three interchangeable wheels are frankly crapola....
2) A pricking iron - this is a punch type tool that lays out not only your spacing, but also the angle for the awl to be used at. Again it comes in various stitches per inch.
re: stitches per inch - if you're doing "period correct" leather work to the nth degree then you will be using a finer thread (no more than 3 cord linen or hemp) and a stitches per inch of 8-12 per inch rather than the "coarser" 5-6 commonly used today with thread in the 5-7 cord range.
here's a sewing tutorial I wrote sometime back that may give you some hints - it's a variation on the traditional harness/saddle stitch - some things are dated such as wher to buy, but the rest is OK
http://www.wrtcleather.com/1-ckd/tutori ... titch.html (http://www.wrtcleather.com/1-ckd/tutorials/_leatherstitch.html)
as for thonging chisels - with all due respect they do work, but can (and will - FWIW that's based on over 50 years of leather craft and repair) cause problems over time since the holes are set up differently than for hand sewing - the main problem being over time that the stitches will tear through since the "holes" are lined up directly between the stitches - kind of hard to explain in words but hopefully ya'll will understand
Where I get my tools/supplies - mostly from Campbell-Bosworth in Texas. It's one of the few places offering linen thread (the Barbours) and the tools are good mid-range CS Osborne tools. There are also custom tool makers such as Douglas which are excellent - the only down side being the price. Another option is vintage leather tools which can be found on Ebay, Proleptics, Brad Johnson, etc. While vintage tools can be excellent and often at a good price, you do need to know what you're looking for.
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A while back in Muzzleloader (I think) TC Albert showed how to make your own stitch marking wheel. I can't imagine trying to awl 8-12 holes in an inch!
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Thanks Chuck, I understand what you're saying about the stitches pulling through when in a straight line. I know it is sacrilege, but I will have to use a sailmakers awl, as my arthritis is in both wrists and now my right thumb has lost all sense of touch. Yep, right handed. I'm making a bowie sheath out of an english saddle. Specifically the saddle fenders, and they are "thick". So my pushing bare needles thru this thickness is questionable, that's why I ordered a 4 tine punch from hobby lobby and will use the sailmakers awl stitcher. You have certainly perfected your craft, and I always admire your work. Thanks for the information.
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I have a 10 per inch and a 12 per inch...used the 10 and will use the 12 on an upcoming project...lotsa sewing.