Post by: shootrj2003 on January 10, 2013, 07:05:09 PM
I've got a kicking piece of tiger striped maple I'm I inletting for it also I have plans for a cast on nosecap eventually maybe metal refinishing but it's actually in pristine shape that way but so was the stock.... Maybe a capbox not sure there either.
I am considering some light carving and / or wire inlay have n't yet ventured there yet but nothing ventured nothin gained,right? Any suggestions or hints? Any thing else with the lock or trigger if you've worked on the Lyman's I'd like to hear from you.
Post by: Muley on February 02, 2013, 01:40:08 PM
Post by: rollingb on February 02, 2013, 03:12:24 PM
Quote from: "shootrj2003"
I'm customizing aGPR I reworked the lock and smoothed out the trigger today but the trigger adj. is all the way down and it,s still about 7-8lbs pull so I nèd a longer adj. screw I guess ,I had read some where that someone sells these I'd like to have an unset trigger of about 3 lbs.
I've got a kicking piece of tiger striped maple I'm I inletting for it also I have plans for a cast on nosecap eventually maybe metal refinishing but it's actually in pristine shape that way but so was the stock.... Maybe a capbox not sure there either.
I am considering some light carving and / or wire inlay have n't yet ventured there yet but nothing ventured nothin gained,right? Any suggestions or hints? Any thing else with the lock or trigger if you've worked on the Lyman's I'd like to hear from you.
Yes,... you need a longer "set adjustment" screw, and one with metric threads.
I used to find such screws for my GPRs, in old tape players and CB radios.
You might also be able to match the screw you now have with a longer length, at your local hardware store.
Post by: Uncle Russ on February 02, 2013, 03:27:28 PM
I think he did a couple not all that long ago.
There used to be a "sticky" here which covered one of his GPR' rebuilds.
Which, I can't seem to find.
Uncle Russ...
Post by: rollingb on February 02, 2013, 03:29:30 PM
Quote from: "Muley"
That screw adjusts how hard it is to set the rear set trigger. It won't lighten up the front trigger unset.
Yes,... the screw adjusts the "set weight" of the front trigger.
Post by: rollingb on February 02, 2013, 03:39:01 PM
Post by: shootrj2003 on February 03, 2013, 10:32:25 AM
My lock 's SET PULL is good and I have smoothed everything out so it's a fairly Nice lock,what I want is to lighten up the UNSET pull and correct me if I'm wrong but I think someone also mentioned that the coil spring is the target here,I can probably figure it out but is there a disassembly tutorial here for this lock? I would like to reduce it to at least 3-4lbs unset ,another question is ,if I lighten the unset pull via shortening the coil spring will this lighten the pull at the trigger adjustment ,it seems to me that they kind of work independently of one another to a point(TO A POINT,) sorry I will try to listen better.smile!
Post by: rollingb on February 03, 2013, 11:03:40 AM
Quote from: "shootrj2003"
You know,I don't know how many times I've read it,and I don't know how many times or how many guys told me that, BUT,finally after reading a post by Cannon,it sunk in and I retread all the posts and realized that the adjustment screw only adjusts the SET PULL,(did you guys know that?)LOL sorry,It's my thick German skull genes!
My lock 's SET PULL is good and I have smoothed everything out so it's a fairly Nice lock,what I want is to lighten up the UNSET pull and correct me if I'm wrong but I think someone also mentioned that the coil spring is the target here,I can probably figure it out but is there a disassembly tutorial here for this lock? I would like to reduce it to at least 3-4lbs unset ,another question is ,if I lighten the unset pull via shortening the coil spring will this lighten the pull at the trigger adjustment ,it seems to me that they kind of work independently of one another to a point(TO A POINT,) sorry I will try to listen better.smile!
I dunno,... I've never tried it. :) )
Post by: Bigsmoke on February 03, 2013, 11:19:10 AM
Take the lock out of the stock and mount it in a vice. Bring the hammer back to full cock. Take a flat tip screwdriver and capture the end of the spring.
Lift up on the sear and let the hammer down. The plunger and the spring will now come free. Warning::::: The plunger and spring might make a dash for freedom at that point, don't do this in a cluttered shop, as finding the errant pieces might be a bit difficult.
Post by: shootrj2003 on February 03, 2013, 11:31:03 AM
Post by: shootrj2003 on February 03, 2013, 11:43:31 AM
Post by: rollingb on February 03, 2013, 12:19:26 PM
Quote from: "shootrj2003"
I like a set trigger ,especially for range work and if I'm on stand but not when I'm still hunting when those quick shots come up I like about a 3lb trigger
It only takes a "split second" to set the front trigger,.... I've never had it EVER present a problem for me while hunting.
Post by: Hanshi on February 03, 2013, 01:45:19 PM
Post by: greyhunter on February 03, 2013, 07:18:36 PM
Post by: pathfinder on February 03, 2013, 08:29:41 PM
Quote from: bigsmoke
don't do this in a cluttered shop, as finding the errant pieces might be a bit difficult.
quote]
What is this "uncluttered" shop you speak of? Unfamliar to me!
Post by: Bigsmoke on February 03, 2013, 11:04:00 PM
Must have been fantasizing about it.
Never seen one myself.
John
Post by: shootrj2003 on February 03, 2013, 11:43:04 PM
The set trigger thing?I guess it depends on The immediate circumstances,but if I have a three lbs trigger I can use it to good effect and if a long shot presents itself
Post by: shootrj2003 on February 05, 2013, 01:28:47 AM
I might order an extra set of springs and the play around and cot a coil or so off.
Bigsmoke ,the tool worked great after some tweaking!
Post by: Captchee on February 05, 2013, 12:12:38 PM
Case in point . Do you realize that the lock not only serves as a way to set of the cap , but it also serves a pressure valve of sorts ?.
See if you lighten the main spring to much , the pressure that is blown out of the nipple can then give you blow back of the hammer . Which if to great will twist it right off the lock .
How hard you have to pull a double set has exactly 0 to do with the lock .
When you pull the trigger to set it , its still not touching the lock . IE the rear trigger does not engage the lock tell it trips .
What happens is when you pull the rear trigger , the trigger bar is pulled down .it then engages a notch in the front trigger and is kept engaged by the trigger main spring . When you pull the front trigger , that trigger bar moves up . When it reaches a given angle the rear trigger slips free . The pressure that’s provided by the trigger main spring slaps the rear trigger up , hitting the sear with just enough force to slip it from the tumbler . In doing so , it does not hold the sear away from the tumbler . This is why the need for a fly OR a double set that inlet to a depth where the trigger main spring will hold the sear away from the lock prior to being compressed . IE it will not allow the lock to be cocked until the rear trigger is set .
Basically like a target type double set
Now with a hunting double set , the two trigger bars over lap . IE the rear trigger bar , does not engage a notch in the front of the front trigger bar . It engages a notch in the side of the front trigger bar .
What this allows a person to do , is then use the front trigger just like a single trigger . IE as you pull the front trigger , the bar comes up and contacts the sear..
How much pull it takes for the trigger to trip the lock is then determined by the angle of contact and the distance of leverage IE the distance from the pivot point to the sear and the distance from the pivot point to your finger .
This all then reacts to the amount of negative angle and depth of the full cock notch . IE the amount of pressure it take to force the sear to over come the main spring and cock the lock back enough for the sear to slip the full cock notch . In other words you can have a very light main spring and still have just as heavy as trigger pull as with a heavy main spring .
Why ?, because the main spring has 0 to do with the trigger pull .
Lyman some years ago was having complains about their rifles going off un expectedly . What was happening is people were adjusting the set trigger to light “yes I said to light “
So they went to a shorter adjustment screw that would not allow the trigger to be adjusted to the point where light pressure would slip the rear trigger from the front trigger notch .
Now some folks will tell you that this adjustment does not adjust the weight of the front trigger pull. That it only adjust the amount of travel the front trigger will make before it trips .
This is partially true and would be completely true if the adjustment screw did not adjust the angle o f the notch at the same time it adjusts the depth of engagement.
Remember the principle that an object in motion wants to stay in motion . Well that whats happening even though your not pulling on the trigger .
See once set the trigger main spring holds force against the front trigger notch as you increase the angle that the force is being applied against the main spring naturally wants to force the resisting force up . Thus less force is needed to help it move an object out of the way . Again principles of leverage are applied . This gets amplified by the shorter distance of travel.
Now if your having issues with the set trigger being to heavy , then what you do is reduce the strength of the trigger main spring . To do that you simply back out the screw that holds it onto the trigger plate . Doing so reduces the amount of downward force being applied to the rear trigger .
But remember this adjustment can also be taken to far and thus not give the rear trigger enough energy when set , to pop the sear from the full cock .
Post by: shootrj2003 on February 06, 2013, 12:25:55 PM
Dude,that is some great info there but I'll have to read it a few times thru to get it clear in my head,the good thing my skull is thick and once it's in nothing gets out,thank you for imparting that.
Be aware I do know too light,I learned that from a Mauser.
Post by: Captchee on February 08, 2013, 12:11:53 AM
i read his post over there . you need to take note of the notch . thats where your issue is .
once again , its all about geomitry . if a single trigger is done correctly it will also be very light .