Traditional Muzzleloading Association
Craftsmanship => Gun Building and Repair => Topic started by: gunmaker on January 21, 2013, 07:58:49 PM
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Am starting a .50 cal hunting rifle for a fella up to Reno. Ed Rayl 1:28 ROT 30" bbl. hook square breech, L&R bar lock. Curly maple full stock. Single tgr. A gun for western deer & elk. Got all pirces except bbl. & it's soon to be here....Tom
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Lookin forward to the build!
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Won't be any more pic's till bbl is in hand...Tom
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Do you ever take a break Tom? I'm not complanin' though...I like your work!
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Tom,
Interresting project. I just love that English Sporting Rifle look with the drip bar and the shotgun lock. Full stock?? What profile you going to have on the barrel?
Be looking forward to seeing how it progresses.
John
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Take a break? That's what my wife asks. Simple answer is no, not if I have anything to say about it. I'm retired & this sure beats TV watching. Ever hear "we have 130 chn'ls & THERE's NOTHING ON." Because of $$ issues---read family & kids, client went for a straight oct. .50 cal X 30" 1:28 ROT for big bullets. but it's an Ed Rayl custom tube. $140.00 and hand made to boot. Some Eng. guns were stocked in maple with full stocks, I've a pic of some in one a my ref. books ....Tom
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More pic's, about it until bbl shows
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Nice pics.
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I gots a ?? I'm a PRB shooter, know nothing about these conicals, sabots whatever. Don't all jump at once, but what's a good hunting load for deer/elk. 100gr a 2f or what's all this synthetic stuff out now ? Bullets ??? I knoe, I know 100 people have 127 answers but here goes anyway....Tom (1:28 ROT 30" bbl. 15/16" flats. Ed Rayl) please no yellin er sheieking or wepons---
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To be honest with you Gunmaker,... I've never shot a conical out of a muzzleloader in my life, so I dunno.
Round balls have always worked good on elk, moose, and caribou, for me. :laffing :shock:
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Lordy, lordy, Sounds like a cannon. I don't believe he wants to target shoot with it, Just large animals. He has several smaller guns for plinking, whatever....thanks....Tom
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It's what I have taught in ALL my classes for 30+ years,there is NO differance between a hunting load and a target load,actually there is ONE differance. It's where your feet are! If your feet are on the rifle range,that's your target load,if your out hunting,that's your hunting load!
Point is,use the most accurate load you can possably work up. We all have experianced what happens when you change your load + or - 5grs.
(http://i560.photobucket.com/albums/ss42/pathfinder_01/th_BearsPAremodel031.jpg) (http://http)
Here's an example using my,now Rick Evan's,.40cal. 42" Green Mt. coned muzzle. Just 5grs makes a world of differance. And this is a very forgiving barrel!
I dont have a lot of experiance with bullet's and fast twist,but I would imagine they would yeild simular result's.
As an example of changing laod combo's,I experimented with a custom Hawkinsa friend of mine built me.
(http://i560.photobucket.com/albums/ss42/pathfinder_01/th_guns019.jpg) (http://http)
.58 cal 38" Colrain barrel,1-1/8 tapered profile,lapped and slight taper bore,@.009 from breech to muzzle,slant hook breech.
Original load was .570 ball,spit patch blue pillow ticking,115grs 3f. With this load I was able to hit all 4 Bears on the NMLRA 200yd sillouete match,ONCE!
After numerous shoulder surgeries,non sucsessful,I needed to find a milder load. After what seem's like 1000 years on the range, I was able to hit on an alternate "kinder" load. .562 round ball,spit blue pillow tick,70grs 3f. Still goes through a couple of 2X4's at 50yd's.
All this to say,your accurate load is your hunting load. Once we put aside our "macho man"stuff,we dont need to hurt ourselves to be a sucessfull hunter. A round ball through the heart will drop whatever you shoot at.
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Yeah, Path, but 1:28 don't make for much of a round ball gun.
Tom, we put together a .72 cal several years ago that the customer wanted 1:28 rifling in it. Had a fellow in Montana make a mould for it. The bullet weighed about 1,200 grains. It was a modified Minnie design. Even with a 36" 1 1/4 barrel, the recoil was quite noticable at 225 grains of Fg. I believe I got a light concussion from shooting it off the bench.
Have fun with the conicals, PRB for me.
John
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No conicals for me. I just asked because this piece is specifically designed to shoot the darn things. At this point in man's path I think way more critters have been layed out by the PRB. Seems lota folks are effected with some form a Magnumitess, old boys shot elephants with 'em-big un's....Tom
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Do you ever take a break Tom? I'm not complanin' though...I like your work!
I hope you can see all the pics...if not, we'll need to roust the techies.
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Well the long wait for the Rayl custom barrel has ended. It showed up today. So I'm back on this project. Here's a pic of bbl. in wood. Stay tuned. Tom
(http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/a555/TomKnight43/English%20Game%20Rifle/th_Mariosrifle_zps89a29382.jpg) (http://http)
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Well the long wait for the Rayl custom barrel has ended. It showed up today. So I'm back on this project. Here's a pic of bbl. in wood. Stay tuned. Tom
(http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/a555/TomKnight43/English%20Game%20Rifle/th_Mariosrifle_zps89a29382.jpg) (http://http)
Tom, a little something to think about, when you get a chance.....
I've got a 32" 1:28 GM .50 barrel, in fact it's one of the barrels for that same stock you now have, and I assure you that the old wives tale about NOT being able to shoot RB in that fast twist is nothing short of just old tales that this sport is plagued with.
There is a one fly in the ointment though, and that is the amount of powder you use before the grouping goes south on it, but that is also true with a lot of other barrels, be they 1:28 / 1:48 / 1:62 / or 1:78.....
In a .50 T/C 1:48 barrel 110gr FFFg and more, will open the group considerably using a round ball and patch.
In the .50 GM 1:28 barrel, the group starts to open at about 95 / 100gr FFFg.
Does that 10 -15gr difference really make a difference, especially when you consider dwell time on a 1:28 is longer than that on a 1:48? (of course such things are measured in mili micro seconds and used to support a theory, not necessarily to mean a whole lot outside of theory or provide anything visual.)
Still yet....Is it possible the 1:28 could be seen as more efficient than a 1:48 and the other rates?
There is this theory on "skipping"... whereas a hot load will push the ball and patch so fast it will "skip" on the grooves and create galling, or leading of the bore, and then when ignored the grooves get all leaded up and the patch can't get stuffed into the grooves to hold the ball properly and impart the proper spin on it.
I'm not sure I buy into all of that...
It makes some sense, some times, but the problem is you can't duplicate the process at will....not just by dumping more powder in, firing a shot or two, dropping a bore light down and see galling.
I suppose if you ignored proper cleaning of the barrel long enough, overtime that scenario could take place, and then grow exponentially to a point you would have a smooth bore, but you could do that no matter which twist you're using, and that makes me think that the old saying of "every gun barrel is a science within itself" totally out weighs the theory of "skipping".
Now the beauty of a 1:28 twist, if you can say such a thing, is the fact that it does better stabilize a conical bullet, or a solid base Minie, much better than a slower twist.
Our NSSA guys shoot some amazing groups with hollow base Minie-Ball even out to 150 yds.....and they do it with a s-l-o-w twist, without leading.
Other than that, a person could shoot a 1:28 for years using a round ball and never know the difference until someone told him "you can't do that in a fast twist".
Uncle Russ...
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There is this theory on "skipping"... whereas a hot load will push the ball and patch so fast it will "skip" on the grooves and create galling, or leading of the bore, and then when ignored the grooves get all leaded up and the patch can't get stuffed into the grooves to hold the ball properly and impart the proper spin on it.
I'm not sure I buy into all of that...
It makes some sense, some times, but the problem is you can't duplicate the process at will....not just by dumping more powder in, firing a shot or two, dropping a bore light down and see galling.
I suppose if you ignored proper cleaning of the barrel long enough, overtime that scenario could take place, and then grow exponentially to a point you would have a smooth bore, but you could do that no matter which twist you're using, and that makes me think that the old saying of "every gun barrel is a science within itself" totally out weighs the theory of "skipping".
Not to be an advocate for that nasty guy
- cuz he don't need one.... but ever since I first heard this theory I've had problems with it as pertaining to PRB. How can a ball inside of a patch be leading the barrel? As far as skipping, I can see that, and lead build up with a conical? Sure, but lead in the bore with a PRB just don't make no sense to me.....
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I think I'm getting a HEADACHE.......
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What Riley said.
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Well for me a 435 grain conical in my 1 in 70 twist , 42 inch barrel works well . But I also shoot 110grains of 3 F to get it to do so and its still not as accurate as a RB pushed with 80 grains . But its more then accurate enough for a hunting load
As to the question of how a ball that’s within a patch , can lead a barrel .
Well the thing is , often times if you pick up the patches , you will find them torn if not shredded . If the patch is in fact intact then it wont lead the rifling .
Now another thing . a lot of times I have found that balls that have torn patchs , will often have rifling engraved on them . First time I saw this was with a patched RB fired through a 1 in 32 twist barrel that was loaded with 100 grains of 3F .
During that time I would fire a ball into the end of a hay bail so as to judge penitration at different distances . couldn’t figure out for the life of me how the ball was being engraved . Then we started looking for patchs . When we found them they were pretty much wads of fabric with a big hole in the center
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Well I've been busy this week, got her mostly done up. Near final sand/finish--hoping for late this week.
(http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/a555/TomKnight43/English%20Game%20Rifle/th_Guards_zpse3fb2b83.jpg) (http://http)
(http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/a555/TomKnight43/English%20Game%20Rifle/th_Mariosrifle3_zps36dc0911.jpg) (http://http)
(http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/a555/TomKnight43/English%20Game%20Rifle/th_Mariosrifle5_zps46331124.jpg) (http://http)
(http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/a555/TomKnight43/English%20Game%20Rifle/th_Mariosrifle8_zps40f344e3.jpg) (http://http)
(http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/a555/TomKnight43/English%20Game%20Rifle/th_Mariosrifle9_zps5b64529f.jpg) (http://http)
(http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/a555/TomKnight43/English%20Game%20Rifle/th_Mariosrifle12_zps8f913542.jpg) (http://http)
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Got a question. In the photo showing a close up the lock plate it appears that you have removed the wood from the front of the nipple snail forward to the front edge of the lock plate down to the top of the lock plate. I don't recall seeing this type of design. Am I missing something or is it just the view that makes it look that way?
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This is something you'll see on English guns. Called a "Bar" lock, a piece of steel filed to look nice is soldered to the side of the barrel. supposed to stop cap flash from burning the wood there. Like this
(http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/a555/TomKnight43/English%20Game%20Rifle/th_Mariosrifle18_zpsc737eb7c.jpg) (http://http)
(http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/a555/TomKnight43/English%20Game%20Rifle/th_Mariosrifle19_zps5bea764b.jpg) (http://http)
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I see now what you are doing. Interesting. After reading your explanation I checked the WEB and found a rifle designed this way on Lewis Drake. Are you going to put a similar bar on the opposite side of the barrel to match?
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No, not on a single barrel rifle......
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From this example, it would not be inappropriate but that is your call and your rifle. Even on one side it is still way cool.
Lewis Drake and Associates | - Smith, London- .62 Cal. Damascus Muzzle Loader, ca. 1817-20 (http://www.drake.net/products/Smith-London--.62-Cal.-Damascus-Muzzle-Loader-ca.-1817-20-?id=28578)
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That is a fine rifle, the set triggers are quite rare on "Brit" guns.....
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a double drip rail i ihave only seen a couple times . though i would say that english sporting rifles are not my best study topic .
i have seen more then a few double set models and more then a few single sets
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Finished her up yesterday, and shipped out to client, for upcoming Nevada bull elk hunt.
(http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/a555/TomKnight43/English%20Game%20Rifle/th_Mariosrifle21_zps2e9d7145.jpg) (http://http)
(http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/a555/TomKnight43/English%20Game%20Rifle/th_Mariosrifle20_zps114297d4.jpg) (http://http)
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Very nice!
I really do like that setup.
What pad did you put on it?
Uncle Russ...
Also....Nice tutorial along the way too!
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The client wanted a rubber pad, so I put on a Pachmayr brown super mag 1" thick---he's worried about recoil !!! Hurts my eyes but it's his gun...Tom
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The client wanted a rubber pad, so I put on a Pachmayr brown super mag 1" thick---he's worried about recoil !!! Hurts my eyes but it's his gun...Tom
I thought it was probably a Pachmayr, but I was also wondering if LimbSaver finally had come out with something like that nowadays.
I suspect you have to squint your eyes quite a bit when doing customer work.
My little POC probably made ya downright sick!
But not to worry, you'll get over it......eventually.
Don't throw the pattern away on that English Game Gun, we may need to talk if a couple of my deals come around, and if my child bride will hurry up and get on the heal.
Anyway, we'll talk some time.
Uncle Russ....
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We're ALL pulling for the little lady Russ, The boss woman here has had her knee replaced & has taken early retirement to boot--so we are in new territory around here as well. Will let you know how that .50 prints as soon as client gets her sighted in, he's promised a target, hope next week. That's an Ed Rayl bbl. so should be a real tack driver, a long wait but worth it....Tom
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Bou gunmaker , your pumping them out right and left . nice job
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Thanks cap....Stay tuned-- more to come, 2 16 bores long & short. a 28 1/2 stock & a 11 bore (.750) NW gun. Plus a pistol and an underhammer .54 rifle.....That should get me thru the year, God willin' ....Tom
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UPDATE: got an e-mail last night, Client took a small mule deer buck Sat. north of Ely, NV. with the "game gun" Shot it at over 9,000 feet on Kalamazoo mt. That's all I know now, rest of story to follow on hunt page....Tom