Post by: RobD on July 31, 2013, 07:26:49 PM
(http://i.imgur.com/vn19Qpm.jpg)
stripped down to the bare stock ...
(http://i.imgur.com/ZSOw1tB.jpg)
i whiskered the wood with naphtha and light 4/0 wooling, and then a buff out with paper toweling.
2 coats of laurel mountain forge 'lancaster maple' alky stain ...
(http://i.imgur.com/LeBrku5.jpg)
i wanted to really seal the wood, particularly the barrel and other inlet and mortise areas, so i gave her 3 wiped on coats of permalyn sealer (yeah, i know, plastic stuff), and injected quality water thin cya to certain thin wood areas ...
(http://i.imgur.com/qx3iJRc.jpg)
i think i'm gonna attempt to assemble and shoot her as is ... kinda dreading the assembly part (gulp!), i did wool down the barrel channel real good and didn't wipe the lock and trigger mortises heavy ... but still, i hope i don't hafta do this >>>--->
Post by: RobD on August 01, 2013, 05:37:50 AM
instead of permalyn (plastic), what are other good rifle stock wood sealers?
i think i read where an "oil" finish (true-oil, tung oil, etc) can be used over permalyn sealer? or how 'bout rubbing in pure beeswax?
i'm leaving all the iron as unfinished, to patina on their own. what's a good protector for the bottom of the barrel that lays in the stock's barrel channel - oil, beeswax, johnson's paste wax, all of them or ...... ?
any oiling or other protection for the lock and trigger?
tia!
Post by: Captchee on August 02, 2013, 06:20:03 PM
myself i use Tung and linseed . Tung is 90% impervious , where linseed is only 10% impervious .
thus linseed will take a stain better then Tung because the stain can go through the linseed where it wont as well through the Tung .also Tung penetrates very deep . as such it makes it rather hard if you ever have to restrain or do a repair to the stock
so what i normally do is apply 4 or 5 coats of linseed , sanding between coats .
Tung oil will not penetrate linseed but it will bind to it . so i then do 2 or more coats on top tell i get the finish i desire . If its to shinny , I simply buff back the tung oil with burlap or 0000 steel wool
Post by: RobD on August 02, 2013, 06:37:23 PM
Post by: Captchee on August 02, 2013, 06:54:22 PM
yes the same thing is true with Tung . but with dries added it will dry just as you say .
myself i use Tung by Minwax
all coats after the first couple float coats of linseed , should be thin hand rubbed coats
Post by: RobD on August 02, 2013, 08:00:04 PM
min-wax tung is the polymer version, and will cure as i mentioned above. however, it sorely lacks in durability when compared to any good resin based polyu. i've used it for finishing guitars, though these dayze i much prefer min wax wipe on polyu - this is really good stuff that cures 3x faster than min wax tung oil and won't mar or scratch as easily as the tung stuff.
i can see where finishing 18th/19th century replica (or near replica) gun stocks is either being, or attempting to be, as historically correct as possible - or just use 20th/21st century petro/chemical finishes ("plastic"). i can see valid value in both, though i'm sure there will be diehards for either camp. me, i'm a shooter first and "absolute period correct" isn't much in my vocabulary. in the long run, it's all subjective and all good, we do as we want. 8)
Post by: Captchee on August 02, 2013, 08:05:58 PM
Lacquers are also period and will give a good thick coat . they are often seen on military type muskets .
Myself , I have found Tung to be very resilient and long lasting on gun stocks. that’s why I use it .
Your gun however is your choice .
Post by: RobD on August 02, 2013, 08:13:31 PM
Post by: RobD on August 02, 2013, 08:15:58 PM
...(http://i.imgur.com/82h6XyQ.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/Jl2zhy3.jpg)
Post by: Captchee on August 02, 2013, 08:28:14 PM
Post by: RobD on August 02, 2013, 08:35:21 PM
Quote from: "Captchee"
dont know how they would have looked at it , im not them .
exactly. me either.
Post by: sse on August 08, 2013, 12:08:08 PM
Post by: RobD on August 08, 2013, 12:31:59 PM
i think they're all good in one way or another. to those who feel the need for a pc/hc wood finish, then obtaining or making the stains, sealers and top coats (if any) that were known to be used by gunsmiths of the era one wishes to emulate is entirely in order.
imho. substituting a modern finishing material based on petro chemicals, or formulas unheard of in the 19th century and back, could never be pc/hc. so, if pc/hc is important, one would never use permalyn, or polyu, or acrylics, or any modern concoction that has polymers in it, such as min-wax tung oil - all that stuff is just wrong if one *requires* a pc/hc firearm. glad that ain't me.
Post by: Uncle Russ on August 08, 2013, 06:50:44 PM
Quote from: "rfd"
re: what i've said up above about finishes ...
i think they're all good in one way or another. to those who feel the need for a pc/hc wood finish, then obtaining or making the stains, sealers and top coats (if any) that were known to be used by gunsmiths of the era one wishes to emulate is entirely in order.
imho. substituting a modern finishing material based on petro chemicals, or formulas unheard of in the 19th century and back, could never be pc/hc. so, if pc/hc is important, one would never use permalyn, or polyu, or acrylics, or any modern concoction that has polymers in it, such as min-wax tung oil - all that stuff is just wrong if one *requires* a pc/hc firearm. glad that ain't me.
Exactly! You've described it all in a nut shell, and it's just not that hard to understand.
Different strokes for different folks, and that's exactly how it should be!
Uncle Russ..