Post by: RobD on August 05, 2013, 01:51:14 PM
Post by: rollingb on August 05, 2013, 02:05:33 PM
Post by: Sir Michael on August 05, 2013, 02:20:24 PM
I'd recommend a .520 ball.
Have you tried Jeff Tanner via e-mail at jeff@ballmoulds.co.uk
Post by: RobD on August 05, 2013, 02:41:17 PM
Post by: rollingb on August 05, 2013, 02:51:49 PM
Quote from: "Sir Michael"
My experience with smoothbores is that .020 clearance is needed at the least to load with a patch. I have a .620 bore and have never found a patch thin enough to load a .610 ball. I have to use a .600 ball with a thin patch. It seems to be lack of grooves for the patching to squeeze into when loading.I don't know about rfd,..... but I don't use patches in my smoothbores, so roundballs that are .010's "under bore size" work fine for me.
I'd recommend a .520 ball.
Have you tried Jeff Tanner via e-mail at jeff@ballmoulds.co.uk
Post by: Riley/MN on August 05, 2013, 03:01:50 PM
Quote from: "rollingb"
but I don't use patches in my smoothbores, so roundballs that are .010's "under bore size" work fine for me.
Patchez? We don't need no steenking patchez!
Post by: rollingb on August 05, 2013, 04:05:49 PM
Quote from: "Riley/MN"
Quote from: "rollingb"but I don't use patches in my smoothbores, so roundballs that are .010's "under bore size" work fine for me.
Patchez? We don't need no steenking patchez! :laffing
Post by: RobD on August 05, 2013, 04:55:52 PM
Post by: rollingb on August 05, 2013, 05:14:17 PM
Quote from: "rfd"
no patches, eh? what holds the ball down onto the magic black dust - a wad?Yep,.... you can pretty much let your imagination run wild when it comes to "wadding",... commercial wads are always available (for a price), or you can use paper, grass, leaves, moss, wasp nests, and etc.
Post by: RobD on August 05, 2013, 05:22:41 PM
Post by: RobD on August 05, 2013, 05:25:51 PM
(http://www.trackofthewolf.com/imgPart/bag-mold_1.jpg)
Post by: rollingb on August 05, 2013, 10:04:24 PM
Quote from: "rfd"
how 'bout those totw primitive scissors mold?I have one of those moulds in .440,.... use leather gloves, those handles get [size=200]HOT[/size] fast.
(http://www.trackofthewolf.com/imgPart/bag-mold_1.jpg)
Post by: MedicineSoldier on August 05, 2013, 11:37:09 PM
Believe it or not Amazon has Lyman Muzzleloading 0.53 Round Ball 54 -Caliber Mould
Amazon.com: Lyman Muzzleloading 0.53 Round Ball 54 -Caliber Mould: Sports & Outdoors (http://www.amazon.com/Lyman-Muzzleloading-Round--Caliber-Mould/dp/B005I0IMGQ/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1375759779&sr=8-10&keywords=lyman+round+ball+molds)
Not my first choice of supplier or brand for molds but they say they have it.
But I think your better choice would be a Lee 2-Cavity Bullet Mold (530 Diameter) Round Ball from Midway USA
Lee 2-Cavity Bullet Mold (530 Diameter) Round Ball (http://www.midwayusa.com/product/154453/lee-2-cavity-bullet-mold-530-diameter-round-ball)
$45+ cheaper than Lyman, double mold so casting is close to twice as fast, and my Lee molds have always worked just as well as my Lyman.
I do use balls from my .530 mold in my 54 smoothbore cast using wheel weights which tend to cast a bit larger than pure lead. But I tend to use a thinner patch than a lot of folks.
Medicine Soldier
Post by: Two Steps on August 06, 2013, 04:25:21 AM
Post by: rollingb on August 06, 2013, 08:26:25 AM
Quote from: "Two Steps"
rfd...You might want to experiment shooting Rb of different sizes before ya settle on one mold to order. Just a thought...That's darn good advice Al.
Post by: RobD on August 06, 2013, 09:24:43 AM
Post by: Hanshi on August 06, 2013, 05:32:09 PM
Post by: mario on August 06, 2013, 06:23:52 PM
Quote from: "rfd"
no patches, eh? what holds the ball down onto the magic black dust - a wad?
Yup. Historically speaking, patched round balls in a rifle, bare ball with wad (or no wad) in smoothbores.
Patching a ball for a smoothbore is a fairly modern concept.
I use wadding of paper, grass, wasp's nest, etc. In certain situations I load powder and drop the ball down the barrel. A tap of the butt on the ground and you can feel the ball seat. Done.
The light fouling helps keep it down. Only lasts for about 10 shots, though. Once the fouling builds up, you need to ram the ball down so it doesn't get hung up.
In local matches, I place upper middle of the pack shooting this way. I DON'T use this method for times when I am moving (hunting, etc) with a loaded gun. That's when I use a wad.
Mario
Post by: mario on August 06, 2013, 06:24:32 PM
Callahan Bagmolds & Accoutrements (http://www.bagmolds.com)
Mario
Post by: RobD on August 07, 2013, 08:58:11 PM
Quote from: "mario"
Oh. You can try Larry Callahan for a bag mold.
Callahan Bagmolds & Accoutrements (http://www.bagmolds.com)
Mario
yeah, thought about those "mel gibson patriot bag moulds", but have no use for their hot handles and have heard they're not all that "perfectly" round. as mentioned, i have a coupla lee d/c moulds coming and have just ordered out a pair of jeff tanner brass moulds. life's still good .....
Post by: Sir Michael on August 08, 2013, 02:05:13 PM
Post by: RobD on August 08, 2013, 02:54:48 PM
Post by: Uncle Russ on August 08, 2013, 06:37:36 PM
Quote from: "rfd"
Quote from: "mario"Oh. You can try Larry Callahan for a bag mold.
Callahan Bagmolds & Accoutrements (http://www.bagmolds.com)
Mario
yeah, thought about those "mel gibson patriot bag moulds", but have no use for their hot handles and have heard they're not all that "perfectly" round. as mentioned, i have a coupla lee d/c moulds coming and have just ordered out a pair of jeff tanner brass moulds. life's still good .....
I have to agree with you on the scissor type moulds, or "bag-moulds" as they are sometimes called.
FWIW; I've never, after years and years of casting, owned one that performed even half way as good as a JT or lowly Lee mould.
The Jeff Tanner moulds, on the other hand, are as good as money can buy, even when you pay three and sometimes four times as much for a Lyman, RCBS, or SAECO mould....plus you are getting a "custom" size at a very competitive price.
Even with a nice leather wrapped handle and using a glove, the cavity of most bag-moulds get to hot to fast, which in turn breaks your rhythm, or timing, for turning out decent "same weight" or near same weight round ball, and if you're interested in consistent accuracy, using the same weight ball is a necessity.
Of course this is just one persons thoughts and your own mileage may vary a bit.
Uncle Russ...
Post by: RobD on August 08, 2013, 06:51:01 PM
Post by: rickevans on December 31, 2013, 01:33:04 PM
Post by: ridjrunr on December 31, 2013, 02:10:41 PM
Ridjrunr
Post by: Captchee on December 31, 2013, 04:54:02 PM
while at the same time the barrel on my hudson valley mics out at .548
Post by: rickevans on January 09, 2014, 10:13:56 AM
Post by: Uncle Russ on January 09, 2014, 12:02:52 PM
Quote from: "rickevans"
Got a hold of Jeff and moulds are on the way.Good on ya Rick!
I feel confident you will like the JT Moulds. I have been using his moulds for years and I have found no fault whatsoever.
Uncle Russ...
Post by: rickevans on January 10, 2014, 09:43:36 AM
Post by: Uncle Russ on January 10, 2014, 01:40:55 PM
Quote from: "rickevans"
Russ...what handles do you use with them? I got 137# of lead just a waiting...
I use the Lee 6 banger...In fact, I have a set of those dedicated to each JT mould.
Lee Commercial Bullet Mold Handles 6-Cavity Lee Bullet Molds (http://www.midwayusa.com/product/117892/lee-commercial-bullet-mold-handles-for-6-cavity-lee-bullet-molds)
Uncle Russ...