Post by: Stormrider51 on May 31, 2014, 02:16:25 AM
Who's next?
Storm
Post by: snake eyes on May 31, 2014, 01:34:07 PM
Great tip! If I had one tip to give,especially to a new shooter it
would be practice dry fire. In the case of off hand it will get one use to
holding the rifle's weight on target.
Thanks for starting this thread,should get some good pointers with all
the experience around here.
snake-eyes
Post by: Hanshi on May 31, 2014, 06:01:26 PM
Post by: Uncle Russ on May 31, 2014, 08:41:57 PM
I suspect there's as many different thoughts on how to improve accuracy as there are shooters, and that is as it should be.
Right or wrong I suspect my own experience is exactly as Hanshi pointed out....this may not hold true for everyone, but I know dozens of shooters who feel strongly the same way I do.
FWIW; My Load / Bench shooting zero / group is never the same zero for my off-hand shooting.
I will fine-tune a load from the Bench, to be sure, but as soon as I off-hand that bench zero for group, using the same sight picture, my group will be low at or around 4 / 5 o'clock.... every time.
Consequently, on my rifles with fixed sights, I never drift the front sight until my bench load is as good as I can get it by "holding" appropriately...I'll then drift or file the front to confirm to my off-hand center group.
Another thing is sights, early on I tried a passel of sights....always had to have what ever was trending at the time. For a few years the front blade was brass, brass on black, then nickle, then "pure" German Silver, then Ivory tipped on black, then whatever else came into vogue next.
About 25 /30 years ago I started shootin cold-black and I haven't looked back since...for open sights it's black on black...as black as I can get but never shinny.
If I was to offer one tip, that I felt was iron glad and would help everyone improve their shooting scores, I would say keep your sight black and plain old soot works wonders for that purpose....maintaining a figure eight at KD ranges also seems to help a bit.
YMMV on every thing I just said, but if you haven't tried it, you may just be pleasantly surprised.
Uncle Russ...
Post by: 1Poet on May 31, 2014, 10:55:53 PM
Post by: Stormrider51 on June 01, 2014, 12:51:19 AM
Storm
Post by: Stormrider51 on June 01, 2014, 01:01:04 AM
Storm
Post by: Ron T. on June 02, 2014, 10:01:49 AM
First, I wipe the edge of the flint and the face of the frizzen with a clean, dry patch. Then I wipe out the frizzen pan with the same patch. Then, after I load powder and patched ball (patch cut at the muzzle), I use a large, "unbent" paper clip to "clean out" the flash-hole to insure it's completely cleared.
You don't need a fancy "pick", just unbend a large, fat paper-clip and that's the bestest "tool" you could use... and the part of the paper clip that's still bent normally can be used as a small "handle" to poke the unbent end into and clean out the muzzle-loader's flash-hole.
Then I put some FFFFg in the pan and lean the rifle to the left and lightly hit the left side of the stock near the trigger-guard a few "bumps" with the palm of my hand to allow some of the FFFFg to be dribbled into the flash-hole.
Then I bring the rifle back to level and insure the FFFFg is evenly distributed over the entire length of the frizzen pan, adding a bit more FFFFg if needed for good ignition, then I lightly "bump" the right side of the rifle's stock a few times just in front of the frizzen pan with my open hand to re-distribute the FFFFg in the frizzen pan evenly.
Then I cock the rifle to full-cock if it isn't already at full-cock, aim at the target, set the double-set trigger and carefully "squeeze-off" the shot.
Using this method, I've had VERY few "flashes-in-the-pan" or mis-fires... and ignition has been very, VERY fast with literally NO "hesitation"... often SEEMING as fast as percussion cap rifles... and part of the "fun" is making your fellow shooters wonder how you're doing it !~!~! :applaud :toast
Strength & Honor...
Ron T.
Post by: Stormrider51 on June 02, 2014, 10:10:54 AM
Storm
Post by: Ron T. on June 02, 2014, 10:31:31 AM
ALL of these things are part of the "mystic" of black powder shooting and traditional muzzle loading rifles and fowlers. N'est pas, mon ami?
Strength & Honor...
Ron T.
Post by: prairie dog on June 02, 2014, 02:58:47 PM
I have a real problem "flinching" with my flintlock. It is the movement of the hammer and frizzen that distracts my eye and causes the flinch.
I made a "flint" of hard wood so I can practice dry firing the flint lock. At first I practiced on the bench rest just to get accustomed to "ignoring" the movement. Now I am practicing off hand and concentrating on keeping the sights on target after the hammer falls and following through with the sight picture.
My monthly match scores show it's working but the greatest improvement has been seen on thrown clay targets.
Post by: prairie dog on June 02, 2014, 03:08:22 PM
All my miss-fires and hang-fires have been eliminated by changing my cleaning methods. It seems that each barrel, ignition type (drum, patent breech, flash hole liner) requires a particular method of cleaning in order to clear all the fouling from the flash channel.
After I got that mystery solved miss-fires and hang-fires disappeared.
Post by: Muley on June 02, 2014, 08:53:24 PM
I sight in my guns from a knee. I figure if I can shoot small groups from a knee. Why do I need a bench? Any groups I do shoot from a bench won't be the same POI when I go to a knee, so what good are they? I don't use a bench when hunting, but I do use a knee, and offhand. My POI stays the same from a knee to offhand. So, sighting in from a knee is all I need to do.
Another perk of sighting in my gun from knee and offhand is it's not only good for hunting, but also for shoots. I like to keep things simple. Do the same thing for everything. It's very peaceful.
Post by: Riley/MN on June 03, 2014, 01:27:05 PM
Sorry, that's all I got...
Post by: Buzzard on June 03, 2014, 04:50:49 PM
Post by: Hanshi on June 03, 2014, 05:06:46 PM
Quote from: "Buzzard"
The bench versus offhand question has been around longer than Uncle Russ; the main jist being that different bench height's cause different problems. An offhand shooter must use a bench that aligns his head, neck, and shoulder area in the same plane as standing upright. If sitting on a bench or chair, that puts the bench height for me at about 42". Anytime you must hunker down and snug into your stock, you'll have problems. The cant of the head, and therefore, your eyes, WILL cause your shots to go astray. As your eyes rotate upward, the surface of it changes from round to oval and distorts the picture. Holding your head still, you'll always see better looking straight forward than looking up, down, or sideways. I feel that's also why eyeglasses are ground to different thicknesses as they follow the contour of the glass around the eye. At least that's my 2 cents.
I agree completely as this has been my experience, also.
Post by: Uncle Russ on June 03, 2014, 06:09:48 PM
Quote
The bench versus offhand question has been around longer than Uncle Russ...
:shock:
Some good thoughts here. Still yet, I still feel strongly that nothing actually beats a good off-hand zero for hunting.
FWIW; I have often put my hand / fist against a tree for support when hunting, I have used a shooting stick with a leather strap that four fingers rest into, with the thumb supporting the rifle, and I have used crossed-sticks.
The closest thing to a bench in the field is cross sticks shooting prone, IMHO.
No matter what support or assist I use, I make double sure that the naked barrel of the rifle I'm shooting never touches anything.
As far as that "just right" placement of the stock on the assist, I've personally never been astute enough to notice much, if any, difference on where the stock was placed, but I do think I prefer something closer back toward the trigger guard. Others will swear by their own "sweet-spot" and try hard to place the assist in the exact same spot every time, and that is just as it should be.
I am not convinced that the location of "that exact spot" is really the answer, but I strongly believe that consistency in placing it in the same place will have some influence on the harmonics....especially if the assist is of something hard / rock solid, such as wood or metal.
Properly assembled cross-sticks have a leather thong that the stock fits on, vs sitting on hard wood, and a few of the old timers believe that is the real secret to their success.
Uncle Russ...
Post by: Stormrider51 on June 03, 2014, 07:45:59 PM
Storm
Post by: Ron T. on June 03, 2014, 10:03:31 PM
Strength & Honor...
Ron T.
Post by: Buzzard on June 04, 2014, 05:54:47 PM
Post by: Captchee on June 16, 2014, 10:14:01 AM
*First and foremost is to find the proper load and zero for your rifle “not to be confused with you “
To do that I shoot from the bench . When shooting from the bench I don’t care what my off hand group is . The purpose is only to find the load that produces the best group for the gun . Doing so means removing as much of the shooter from the weapons system as possible .IE the bench .
the next step is to sight the rifle in . if you’re an off hand shooter like myself , that mean sighting it in off hand .
* when shooting off hand I do not grip the forestock like you would a modern center fire . Frankly there is no need to do that . What I do is just rest the forearm in my left hand by creating a “V” with my thump.
Others I shoot with use the open palm and still others use a 2 finger rest with the thumb on the TG and the index finger on the wood of the stock . I also do not support my off hand arm on my body .
What this does is reduce the amount of input your body had on the gun itself and thus reduce the tendency to pull the gun to the left upon ignition
* next is proper shooting stance . I use a side stance where the gun is across my body . Others use a forward stance . But what they both have in common is a 90 degree angle of the upper arm.
Using the shooting hand to pull the rifle into my shoulder or upper arm depending on the rifle and how well it fits you.
* next is a consistent cheek anchor . If the gun is properly fit then the anchor will be consistent each time . However if its not , then place a piece of tape on the cheep of the stock so as to train yourself to place your cheek in the same spot each time
* to teach yourself proper trigger pull and reduce flinch
For a flintlock make a wood flint . For a cap lock use a simple black faucet washer and place it over the nipple so as to not damage the nipple . Then take a couple quarters and place then on the top flat of the barrel or with a round barrel balance it on the top of the barrel . When you finish you firing of the lock . The quarters should still be resting on the barrel . If the are not you have flinched . Practice tell you don’t lose your money .
* follow through is also important do not drop , look up or otherwise move once the gun is fired . Hold your sight picture tell the smoke clears. You should still be sighted on the target
* make yourself a firing regiment and stick to it . What this means is get into a pattern of sequences from step one of loading , right through trigger pull .
Mine is .
Add powder . Tamp the stock to settle powder. Lay ticking across muzzle place ball . Start ball only to level of muzzle . Cut ticking . Seat ball to powder . Replace RR. Check vent and flint . Pick or Knapp if needed . Prime pan and close frizzen . Turn sideways to target . Bring rifle to full cock , Raise rifle muzzle above target , around 45 degrees and settle into to shoulder . . . Set trigger . Taking a deep breath and hold it . Looking through sights drop down on target and let sights settle through target . Slowly raise back up to target . Begin trigger pull . Follow through .
While this seems a lot once you get it down its very quickly done as it becomes 2nd nature .
Regardless of what you use for a sequence. Train you to do the same thing over and over
Post by: Stormrider51 on June 16, 2014, 10:24:00 AM
Quote from: "Captchee"
Ok ill join in but as always this is just my opinion .
*First and foremost is to find the proper load and zero for your rifle “not to be confused with you “
To do that I shoot from the bench . When shooting from the bench I don’t care what my off hand group is . The purpose is only to find the load that produces the best group for the gun . Doing so means removing as much of the shooter from the weapons system as possible .IE the bench .
the next step is to sight the rifle in . if you’re an off hand shooter like myself , that mean sighting it in off hand .
* when shooting off hand I do not grip the forestock like you would a modern center fire . Frankly there is no need to do that . What I do is just rest the forearm in my left hand by creating a “V” with my thump.
Others I shoot with use the open palm and still others use a 2 finger rest with the thumb on the TG and the index finger on the wood of the stock . I also do not support my off hand arm on my body .
What this does is reduce the amount of input your body had on the gun itself and thus reduce the tendency to pull the gun to the left upon ignition
* next is proper shooting stance . I use a side stance where the gun is across my body . Others use a forward stance . But what they both have in common is a 90 degree angle of the upper arm.
Using the shooting hand to pull the rifle into my shoulder or upper arm depending on the rifle and how well it fits you.
* next is a consistent cheek anchor . If the gun is properly fit then the anchor will be consistent each time . However if its not , then place a piece of tape on the cheep of the stock so as to train yourself to place your cheek in the same spot each time
* to teach yourself proper trigger pull and reduce flinch
For a flintlock make a wood flint . For a cap lock use a simple black faucet washer and place it over the nipple so as to not damage the nipple . Then take a couple quarters and place then on the top flat of the barrel or with a round barrel balance it on the top of the barrel . When you finish you firing of the lock . The quarters should still be resting on the barrel . If the are not you have flinched . Practice tell you don’t lose your money .
* follow through is also important do not drop , look up or otherwise move once the gun is fired . Hold your sight picture tell the smoke clears. You should still be sighted on the target
* make yourself a firing regiment and stick to it . What this means is get into a pattern of sequences from step one of loading , right through trigger pull .
Mine is .
Add powder . Tamp the stock to settle powder. Lay ticking across muzzle place ball . Start ball only to level of muzzle . Cut ticking . Seat ball to powder . Replace RR. Check vent and flint . Pick or Knapp if needed . Prime pan and close frizzen . Turn sideways to target . Bring rifle to full cock , Raise rifle muzzle above target , around 45 degrees and settle into to shoulder . . . Set trigger . Taking a deep breath and hold it . Looking through sights drop down on target and let sights settle through target . Slowly raise back up to target . Begin trigger pull . Follow through .
While this seems a lot once you get it down its very quickly done as it becomes 2nd nature .
Regardless of what you use for a sequence. Train you to do the same thing over and over
Post by: 1Poet on June 16, 2014, 10:24:51 AM
Post by: Muley on June 16, 2014, 12:59:37 PM
Post by: Muley on June 16, 2014, 01:16:30 PM
Post by: Uncle Russ on June 16, 2014, 02:26:45 PM
I like the way it could be summarized. In essence he said, "the bench zero is to remove all of "you" from the gun that's possible, and the off-hand is to install as much of "you" as possible back, so you and the gun become a unit of one".....makes perfect sense to me.
And, much like greyhunter, I do the best I can with what I've got.
Sometimes I truly shine, and sometimes.....not so much.
Still yet, I do enjoy every range session, and every hunting trip I can squeeze in.
At my age I consider each and every one a real bonus.
Uncle Russ...
Post by: Stormrider51 on June 16, 2014, 03:03:42 PM
Storm
Post by: snake eyes on June 16, 2014, 03:04:47 PM
Quote from: "RussB"
"the bench zero is to remove all of "you" from the gun that's possible, and the off-hand is to install as much of "you" as possible back, so you and the gun become a unit of one"
Darn Russ, I was just getting ready to say that same thing :laffing That Captchee
sure thinks well don't he?????
snake-eyes
Post by: Stormrider51 on June 16, 2014, 03:45:16 PM
One last suggestion before I close. While you have the barrel out of the stock apply a good coat of furniture wax to the barrel channel. I was often amazed to find a gun with a beautifully finished stock exterior and raw wood in the barrel channel. The same moisture that can cause the barrel to rust under there can cause the stock to eventually soften and rot.
Storm
Post by: snake eyes on June 16, 2014, 04:02:35 PM
Quote from: "Stormrider51"
One last suggestion before I close. While you have the barrel out of the stock apply a good coat of furniture wax to the barrel channel. I was often amazed to find a gun with a beautifully finished stock exterior and raw wood in the barrel channel. The same moisture that can cause the barrel to rust under there can cause the stock to eventually soften and rot.Storm,
For whatever reason I have done exactly that.....I was always concerned about
the bottom of the barrel when in the channel for any length of time. Now I know I was preserving the stock wood as well.
snake-eyes
Post by: buffalo pony on June 17, 2014, 12:03:37 AM
I feel it necessary to remind new loaders that the patch is the guidance system for the ball and if it is compromised by too much lube or lack of thickness you will throw a fly ball.
A fouled barrel will mean less rifling contact with the patch. If you dump powder down a damp or greasy barrel a lot gets stuck to the side and wet, that's the reason for the extra long barrel funnels you don't see anymore. If you fail to weigh each ball to insure that you have consistent bullet weight your sighting in will be based on a guess.
If you use precut patches and one side goes down more than the other it will contact the rifling in an unequal manner that shows up down range. In the end it is your patch and the contact it makes or does not make with the rifling that will have the biggest impact on accuracy. God made the patch knife for a reason.
Post by: RobD on January 22, 2015, 08:39:31 AM
Quote from: "Stormrider51"
... One last suggestion before I close. While you have the barrel out of the stock apply a good coat of furniture wax to the barrel channel. I was often amazed to find a gun with a beautifully finished stock exterior and raw wood in the barrel channel. The same moisture that can cause the barrel to rust under there can cause the stock to eventually soften and rot.
Storm
good stuff!
after staining the raw stock wood, then lightly buffing with 0000 steel wool and a stiff paper towel, i wicked in quality water thin cya to the entire length of the barrel channel and all stock areas hidden by the lock. i'd dribble on some cya then "whisk" it over the wood with a short piece of folded paper towel that had the whisking ends torn/frayed, like a pseudo brush. this hardens, stiffens, and protects the wood. following that, on went the clear coats.
Post by: cyotewa on February 12, 2015, 12:38:08 AM
Don't try to hold steady on the center of the ax blade you will wobble a little in every direction, track the blade up and down and you won't be off side to side. I track the blade up & down 3-5 times before I start putting pressure on the trigger taking 1 second to track from bottom to top. When I'm ready to shoot as I start tracking from bottom to top I start putting pressure on the trigger, if the hammer didn't fall on the way up I don't use any more pressure on the way down I only want to fire on the up track so on my next track up the blade I put more pressure on the trigger and fire. The other trick is use a shotgun;-)
Post by: Muley on February 12, 2015, 10:00:27 AM
Set triggers are made for offhand shooting. Trying to time the sights as they move over the target with a trigger you have to squeeze won't be accurate. That takes too long to pull the trigger. A light tap on a set trigger is what you want. Not really a tap, but it feels like it, because the trigger is so light.
Squeezing a trigger slowly is for bench shooting when you can hold the sights steady.
Post by: cyotewa on February 13, 2015, 01:00:57 AM
Post by: Muley on February 13, 2015, 09:30:07 AM
I've never tried the ax blade shot. What range is that done at?
Post by: cyotewa on February 24, 2015, 10:24:07 PM
First, remove caps from both nipples.
Second, run ramrod down both barrels to be positive which barrel is loaded and leave ramrod in loaded barrel while loading unloaded barrel to ensure not double loading.
I've seen 3 shooters that were absolutely positive they were loading the empty barrel double load the unfired barrel.
Post by: Stormrider51 on February 24, 2015, 10:31:06 PM
Quote from: "cyotewa"
When shooting a double barrel and you shot one barrel and want to load it before you shoot the other barrel.
First, remove caps from both nipples.
Second, run ramrod down both barrels to be positive which barrel is loaded and leave ramrod in loaded barrel while loading unloaded barrel to ensure not double loading.
I've seen 3 shooters that were absolutely positive they were loading the empty barrel double load the unfired barrel.
Post by: Mad Irish Jack on March 09, 2015, 05:51:42 PM
Post by: prairie dog on March 19, 2015, 09:41:21 PM
Quote
how many of you remove the barrel from the stock for cleaning?
It depends on the gun and how it's bedded. Some are removed after every session and others less frequently. Those which are glass bedded are not removed often. I find all my guns require different cleaning routines. Some need more care more frequently and others less.
I agree with your ideas on barrel pins. I fear losing a pin in the field so I fill the pin holes with bees wax to hold them in should one decide to become loose. I also seal the lock with a roll of bees wax about the thickness of a pencil lead. I put the wax in the recess of the inletting and the lock plate on top of it. Snug down the lock screws and the excess wax is squeezed out.
Post by: Captchee on March 20, 2015, 08:28:07 AM
If you have a browned barrel , you have a rusted barrel . As long as the barrel was browned properly , you should not build large iron oxide rust be it on the top or in the barrel channel .
Cold Blued barrels are different story and depending on the Bluing used , it may not do anything to resist rust .
If however your out in the rain snow or other wet weather its not a bad idea to check the barrel when your all done to insure that your oil , grease or wax is doing what its supposed to . Once you have insured it has , there is little reason for it not to continue since its locked under the barrel and not subject to wear .
Myself when I finish a barrel , be it browned or blued , I coat it with hot linseed . Thus when the barrel is put in place there is very little worry
On the pins . Take them in and out on the same side . Round and polish the ends and you will have no more issues with pins messing up the holes .
On the subject of bedding either your barrel is bedded or its floating .
Beading the tang does not produce the same purpose as pillar beading does on a center fire. Thus we cant really free float a Traditional muzzle loading side lock barrel .
Add into all that is whats called barrel harmonics . Which is different for muzzleloaders .
But anyway , my point is that unless the barrel is fully bedded , then you have areas where moisture can be trapped. Don’t forget that your stock has to be able to breath to some extent .
So while moisture may not get to the bottom of a fully bedded barrel , it can get under the barrel at the muzzle or along the edge of the fore stock . But again once the barrel has been coated and then checked to insure the chosen coating is working there should be very little to no reason to remove the barrel other to insure ones self .
Post by: PeteA on February 16, 2016, 09:02:43 AM
I'm new to muzzleloaders and firearms for that matter. I've been shooting off the bench to test loads and patch combinations for my 50 cal CVA Hawken cap lock . 70gr of pyrodex under a .490 ball and .018 patch are giving me 2.5 -3 in groups of 5 shots at 50 yards. My POA is at 6 o'clock and my POI is about 2" high. So I decided to switch it up and shoot a few shots off hand last weekend. I figured I would have the same results. Everything the same except off hand, and 3 shots within 2.5", perfect windage BUT 4 inches low for what I thought would be the POI! Although I seem to be grouping well (for me anyway) from the bench at 50 yards my body position does not feel natural. I feel like I'm hunched over the rifle. I feel like I am looking down over the stock. The other issue I'm having is my rear sight is bottomed out when sighting in from the bench. With a load well within the guidelines for the ML I have no rear sight adjustment if I were to increase loads and if my POI should hit higher. I find this very odd.
Standing, off hand I fell considerably more up right. More natural. I'm a traditional archer and bow hunter so that body position feels better. I originally thought that this was just my inexperience in shooting. Possibly dropping the front of the barrel and not following through. But now from what I'm seeing in this post, maybe not so much. I've started working on dry firing to keep my POA on target after the shot. I'll be at the range again this weekend and try all off hand shooting to really see whats going on.
Post by: cyotewa on February 16, 2016, 10:53:11 AM
Post by: Ironhand on February 16, 2016, 07:15:58 PM
Ironhand
Post by: Bigsmoke on February 16, 2016, 10:58:12 PM
Quote from: "Muley"
I've never tried the ax blade shot. What range is that done at?
Most of the ax blade shoots and card cuts that I have competed at were at about 10 paces. Some go out further.
Another thing I have seen done is everyone takes a shot at the ax or the card. Whoever misses is out. Whoever is left takes another step backwards and they do it all over again. This repeats until there is only one shooter left. He wins.
That same thing is done with candle snuffs as well. Last man standing.
Usually, by 20 paces, the contest is settled.
It sure is fun.
John
Post by: cyotewa on February 17, 2016, 08:46:00 PM
Post by: Hawken on March 27, 2016, 12:04:48 PM
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1493/25478401481_feeb75db36_b.jpg) (http://https)Untitled (http://https) by Rick Mulhern (http://https), on Flickr
At this occasion I was testing on how to hold for 200 yards with this .54 Hawken! I think I found it!
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1576/25696998570_7a7f00e291_c.jpg) (http://https)Untitled (http://https) by Rick Mulhern (http://https), on Flickr
Post by: Roaddog on March 29, 2016, 07:29:30 AM
Post by: Hawken on March 29, 2016, 08:14:03 AM
Quote from: "Roaddog"
I sure like your shootn bench.I think it's time for one of my boys to fireup the welder.The fact that it can be moved around is a big pluss. :toast
Post by: Hawken on April 26, 2016, 01:06:23 AM
Good day gents!
Post by: Stormrider51 on April 26, 2016, 01:41:31 PM
John
Post by: sse on April 27, 2016, 04:50:49 PM
Quote from: "Hawken"
Shooting offhand requires patience and hundreds....even thousands of rounds down range! Noone can hold a rifle completely still...there will always be movement...same with a pistol or revolver! Everyone has what's known as AOW aka AREA OF WOBBLE! Shooters must train to learn to trust their AOW! Many potential shooters do not have the patience...or take the time to practice, or research about what leads to great marksmanship skills and until your dues are paid....most will only be mediocre at best. A NPA (Natural Point of Alignment) must be established when shooting offhand....or any other position for that matter and without a natural stance being established before starting to shoot makes the likely-hood of poor shots being made. Sometimes this isn't always possible when hunting but it is one of the foundations for most good shooting situations. There are two psychological processes that all shooters must overcome before becoming excellent marksmen. These are INHIBITION and HESITATION! When a shooter is aiming a rifle and attempting correct sight picture and 'hold', then enter these two problems! The shooter is attempting to do two different things at the same time aka maintenance of a good 'hold' and attempting to squeeze the trigger! Noone likes to make a bad shot and here is where INHIBITION comes into play! The shooter has a fear of a lousy performance and has a mental block and coupled with this....leads to HESITATION! When the eye sees a perfect sight picture a neural impulse is received and sent to the cerebral cortex which can...for all practical purposes be related to as the visual identification center of the brain. When the VIC then attempts to send a neural impulse to the correct motor cells which control the proper set of muscles which assist in trigger control...the neural impulse on it's route gets 'robbed' by billions of other stronger motor cells which reside in the upper part of the shooters brain and most often an incorrect impulse is sent to the wrong location causing possibly a shoulder twitch or a thumb which may be resting across the small of the stock! And there goes the bad shot! The good news is that the more time and practice that a shooter gains the weak neural impulse attempting to be sent on it's route to the proper motor cells that control the correct set of muscles to complete a good shot becomes stronger and stronger as time goes by! This is why we teach our children attempting to hit a baseball or to make a good lay-up shot in basketball...repetition repetition repetition...makes perfect! In conclusion, when a shooter has fired many shots down range and put extensive time into shooting offhand, the impulse to control the trigger will come automatically through a trained reflex action such that when the eye sees perfect sight picture.....the rifle fires!!Hawken, I really like how you broke this down, nodding here.
Good day gents!
So, you may be able to answer this question. Why is it sometimes after no practice for months, many months, one can go out and shoot well? While back, I went to the winter event at our club and had not practiced or shot the muzzle loader for nearly a year, but I ended up not missing one target (ten of them) and won the shoot. Be interested in knowing your take. There are others here who could probably also add some insight, if they would like...
Post by: Hawken on April 27, 2016, 05:21:51 PM
"WINNERS EXPECT IT....LOSERS HOPE FOR IT!"
Post by: sse on April 27, 2016, 06:33:22 PM
Another example from when I was a golf nut, one year the best round I scored was the first outing of the year, that was a good day for some reason. Have no good explanation for it.
Post by: Hawken on April 27, 2016, 07:36:38 PM
"Shooting is 90% mental....and the other half is physical!" :USA
Post by: RonC on April 28, 2016, 12:40:40 PM
If I go shooting frequently, and shoot with one particular rifle, I improve.
If I lay off and just go shooting now and then, my groups fall apart and I will only get better if I practice regularly again.
Ron
Post by: Hawken on May 03, 2016, 12:59:49 AM
Quote from: Hawken
I shot competition for 50 years in NRA HP and standing was always one of my better scoring positions but at 76 years of age....those days are a 'done deal'! I CAN still shoot offhand but I ain't! Not when I can take a good rest position and make a good 'called shot'! Many people I've watched shoot from a bench use an artificial rest and by that I mean one of the commercial rest and in my opinion that's a no no! It's been my experience to discover long ago that when a rifle barrel or forearm is rested against a somewhat solid object and I mean by that even if it's rested across the top of a sandbag that the recoil cannot be controlled! Even with a 1-70" rate of twist that slow twist rate will still impart torque to the rifle and if the recoil is not dampened consistent accuracy can be problematic! I've watched people shoot off of shaky tables with four skinny legs purchased from Wally World and then complain that they couldn't get 'steady'! The shooting bench must be constructed to fit the shooter and if not stabilized....well you may as well go drink a beer and watch the jay birds! The bench in the photo below works for me. I'm not a small guy; rather I'm 6' and weigh in at 230#. This bench was constructed such that I sit such that my chest is up against the aft edge of the slot cut-out which stabilizes my body and I shoot off of my left shoulder since I am left eye dominant. My right hand goes out to the forward end of the forestock and my hand rest against the top of a rolled up shooting mat which I have threaded into the center a 2" piece of galvanized pipe to prevent the mat from collapsing! The forearm and barrel do not touch the mat. I shoot good consistent groups using this method with any type of rifle and as for hunting I have never had a problem killing game using a zero that I developed shooting from a bench!
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7516/26182147643_2e8d1805b8_c.jpg) (http://https)Benchflt (http://https) by Rick Mulhern (http://https), on Flickr