Post by: lbothell on October 28, 2016, 06:02:06 PM
Post by: RobD on October 28, 2016, 06:07:57 PM
Post by: lbothell on October 28, 2016, 06:18:59 PM
Post by: RobD on October 28, 2016, 06:28:50 PM
some things come to mind. use a thinner 100% cotton patch, like .015". use a better patch lube. i use patching that's been pre saturated with "gato feo" bpcr lube - first rubbed in and then melted in with a heat gun - but there are lotsa good patch lube components and processes that will help soften the residue. moist breath air down the tube helps soften the residue (as we do with a blow tube for bpcr). when you push the ball down the tube, and the patching contacts the fouling, bounce the ramrod on the ball/patch. this will add the proper force to both get it past the fouling and to best compress the powder while at the same time assuring there is no dreaded air space 'tween patched ball and powder. this bouncing will not deform the lead ball if the tip of yer rod is concave.
GPR .50 Hawken flintlock firings sans fouling control - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3lJUoOiQ4n8)
Post by: lbothell on October 28, 2016, 06:44:07 PM
Post by: RobD on October 28, 2016, 06:50:19 PM
Post by: lbothell on October 28, 2016, 06:59:42 PM
Post by: RobD on October 28, 2016, 07:10:42 PM
Post by: lbothell on October 28, 2016, 07:23:57 PM
Post by: RobD on October 28, 2016, 07:37:14 PM
good luck this season!
Post by: PetahW on October 29, 2016, 11:24:32 AM
Quote from: "lbothell"
It's a full stock, i could take it to Dixons a he could pull it.
So I'm kinda out of luck huh.
I don't want to get it rebored I love the 45 caliber and don't want a 50
IMHO, yore not outta luck yet............... I would suggest having the breechplug pulled to examine the rearmost portion of the bore first.
1) The rusty area can be polished out w/o disturbing the breechplug threads in the barrel, and simply result is a powder chamber that's only slightly larger than the bore - only a problem with light powder charges that allow boolit/ball seating that deep.
2) The breech end of the barrel can be cut off, ridding the barrel of the pitted area, then re-threaded for the breechplug.
Yes, the barrel will be a bit shorter, and the tip of the forestock will needs be reworked shorter also - but the rifle will be rid of the pitting, which will quickly foul, forever (if not totally removed).
#2, however, is IMO not doable if the barrel's swamped.
.
Post by: lbothell on October 29, 2016, 11:39:38 AM
Post by: Hanshi on October 29, 2016, 03:31:39 PM
Post by: Hanshi on October 29, 2016, 03:42:52 PM
Post by: Uncle Russ on October 29, 2016, 03:48:32 PM
Quote
Yeah it's swamped but having it polished out might be the ticket. So what do you consider a light load? 30grains of fff? Cause that's what I like shootin out of it haha
I think Hanshi has a very viable option in "fire lapping" I have done that very thing many times over the years....in fact, I have done it a couple of times on brand new, out of the box, rifles after examining the bore....amazing effects!
BTW; his thoughts on the fouling issue is solid too!
FWIW; JB Paste has about 3,000f as an abrasion factor, Valve Grinding Compound has about 1,200 / 1,500f as an abrasion factor....Rottenstone, often used on rifle stocks after using a 1,200 sand paper has an abrasion factor of about 2,000f and will work wonders on a barrel with a paste made of Mineral Oil and RS....
Reduced loads......It is my opinion, and my opinion only, that a "light load" may be considered anything less than caliber.
In your case I would suspect a light load to be anything less than 45 gr. FFFg.
For a .50 cal., anything less than 50gr.
My fear of "light loads" is not having the ball exit the barrel...perhaps that fear is unfounded, but it is there.
I know of nothing in writing that really describes a light load.
But it is well recognize what can happen when the ball doesn't exit.
This subject would make a great subject for discussion under another thread, and I would certainly appreciate someone with more knowledge on the subject of "light loads" than myself starting such a thread.
Uncle Russ...
Post by: lbothell on October 29, 2016, 04:04:25 PM
Post by: Ohio Joe on October 29, 2016, 04:12:40 PM
What exactly are you cleaning your bore with? I didn't see it mentioned. Please list if you would exactly what your using to clean with and your complete method from beginning to end before storing your rifle muzzle down. Also, is hot water any part of cleaning the bore. I ask because hot water will cause flash rust.
Post by: lbothell on October 29, 2016, 04:43:00 PM
water in bore then flushed to get started
Run some patches
Run brass brush through
Water flush
Run Patches till they come out dry
Hoppes 9 bore cleaner
Run patches till dry and clean
Oil down with kroil oil to finish
Post by: RobD on October 29, 2016, 05:05:07 PM
i will preface to say that in all NORMAL circumstances, all that's ever needed to clean out black powder fouling is plain ol' tepid tap water. anything else is a waste of money and perhaps time.
pull the lock and stick it in a bucket of tepid tap water, to be revisited when the barrel's cleaned and oiled.
if the barrel is pinned, plug the touch hole with a round toothpick, pour fill the barrel with the tepid water and let it stand for 2 to 5 minutes - allow the water to do its job. turn the touch hole so it's facing the ground and pull out the toothpick and for flat breech plugs, use a scrapper clean off the plug's face. if a patent breech, after using the scraper, run a .22 bronze brush wrapped in a wet patch down into the breech's flue to clean that out. then finish up by plunging a water wet patched jag up and down the bore 'til the water pissing out the touch hole is clean. run down dry patches and then one oily patch - almost ANY oil will do just fine, don't waste money on fancy expensive stuff. there is no need for special "bore cleaners" or "bore oils" or added cleaning steps.
if the barrel has a hook breech (yer hawken type rifles), pop the barrel wedges, lift out the barrel, set the ignition end in a bucket of tepid tap water and plunge the bore with a patched jag. when the water pisses out clean, see above.
now attend to the lock - use a toothbrush to clean while the lock's in the bucket of water. when cleaned out, paper towel pat dry well, use wd-40 spray or an oily rag to coat all the lock parts and the complete lock plate. paper towel pat off any excess oil. put the lock back.
done.
HOWEVER, pitting is a total 'nother story and that must be resolved first and foremost. posts here address what needs to be done to rid of pitting and restore the barrel to the point that the NORMAL cleaning process can be administered effectively.
Post by: lbothell on October 29, 2016, 05:16:18 PM
Post by: RobD on October 29, 2016, 05:19:45 PM
Post by: lbothell on October 29, 2016, 05:29:15 PM
Post by: RobD on October 29, 2016, 05:31:46 PM
Quote from: "lbothell"
I definitely Will, and yes I love the getz! Don't want to loose it. I am going to contact the builder and see what he can do since he was selling the gun at a shop that was said to be new. Maybe he can pull the breech and what not since he is most familiar with the piece.
definitely a good first move, sir!
Post by: Uncle Russ on October 29, 2016, 05:48:54 PM
Quote from: "lbothell"
I definitely Will, and yes I love the getz! Don't want to loose it. I am going to contact the builder and see what he can do since he was selling the gun at a shop that was said to be new. Maybe he can pull the breech and what not since he is most familiar with the piece.I agree with Rob, that's a great place to start, and keeping that Getz barrel in good shape is a no.1 priority!
Uncle Russ...
Post by: lbothell on October 29, 2016, 07:14:41 PM
Post by: PetahW on October 29, 2016, 07:35:03 PM
Quote from: "lbothell"
Yeah it's swamped but having it polished out might be the ticket. So what do you consider a light load? 30grains of fff? Cause that's what I like shootin out of it haha
When I referred to "light loads", I was speaking to a shorter column of powder under the projectile - which could allow the projectile to encroach into the newly-enlarged "chamber" area, which could entail improper projectile alignment with the bore proper, and/or patches being stripped off the ball upon firing.
I would suggest measuring where inside the bore the 30gr FFFg charge tops off at to see if it comes up to at least the fwd limit of any enlargement in the "chamber" area. (aka: doing the homework/due-diligence prior to making changes)
.
Post by: lbothell on November 03, 2016, 07:38:46 PM
Post by: RobD on November 03, 2016, 07:58:07 PM
now let's fix that dang click-boom thing, it should go k'rack! like this ...
Smooth rifle .62 - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9e7ZUgDZMlE)
is the flint really sharp and then it and the pan and the frizzen are cleaned before each firing? is the touch hole well aigned with the pan? what size vent hole? are you picking the vent for each firing? what pan powder and how much and how is it distributed in the pan?
Post by: Muley on November 03, 2016, 08:28:25 PM
Post by: lbothell on November 03, 2016, 08:39:04 PM
Post by: lbothell on November 03, 2016, 08:41:19 PM
Post by: RobD on November 03, 2016, 10:04:10 PM
Quote from: "Muley"
Are you using a dry rag to wipe the pan and frizzen in the video Rob?
aye, pete.
a clean swatch of cotton flannel cloth, made dirty after a few dozen shots and replaced.
cleanliness is next to good firings.
Post by: RobD on November 03, 2016, 10:13:06 PM
Quote from: "lbothell"
Yes yes yes and yes! I use 3F for pan just because I'll be honest I don't feel like carrying more stuff. I clean everything after each shot. I honestly believe it's how this gun shoots, my .40 is instant BUT it has a nice vent liner. This gun doesn't have a vent liner just a straight hole like the origionals and seems to have a lot of metal in between the pan and chamber. I always keep it clean and put just a little powder in the whole to try and bridge the gap, i dont fill it but you have to put some it or it just isn't reliable. It's delay is definitely more then the .40 but not by much just enough to throw me off a bit. I don't have the heart to put a liner in it because it's different and I kinda like that ha.
if the gun insists on the ka-boom and not k'rack, there is surely something amiss that begs to be tamed and corrected, sez i! some guns have quirks that need attending to, and we'll have no unruly firearms that do as they please for their masters! hear! hear!
what's the touch hole diameter? perhaps it needs to be a tad opened or has built up wall bp residue crud that needs severe cleaning?
my vent pick is a .040 phosphor-bronze wound piece of guitar string and i push it in good to the chamber powder, and i believe that the pick windings pull out a few of the 3f kernals into the vent hole, at the ready to receive the heat from the pan's explosion.
is the vent coned inside? of not, and you don't wish to drill out for a liner, that also may help.
Post by: lbothell on November 04, 2016, 03:31:33 PM
Post by: RobD on November 04, 2016, 06:01:13 PM
Post by: Mike Brooks on November 05, 2016, 06:56:59 AM
Post by: RobD on November 05, 2016, 07:51:44 AM
Post by: lbothell on November 06, 2016, 11:41:23 AM