Traditional Muzzleloading Association
Craftsmanship => Gun Building and Repair => Topic started by: sse on February 02, 2017, 02:40:25 PM
-
Over the weekend we did our little Winter thing at the club. Didn't win the walk thru but finished high enough to get a nice prize.
During the shoot noticed the hammer was down a few times, which is unusual since my habit after the shot is to pull back the hammer to full cock and remove the spent cap remnants, before re-charging. When cleaning after I got home, I discovered when in full cock, I could touch the back of the hammer and it would go down with very little pressure. That was a surprise. Not long ago, there was an issue where the hammer would not catch consistently at half cock, never was an issue, though. The the half cock position functions fine now.
So, I'm wondering why the lock is behaving like that. Should be addressed, since when hunting I usually leave the rifle capped at full cock and it could easily go off unintended! Didn't hunt with it this past Fall, darn good thing.
Rondo, any thoughts?
-
Jimmy Veeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee,
Wondering how the lock behaves when removed from the stock? If there is a good solid catch when the hammer is back at full cock and it doesn't act like that, you might want to not tighten the lock so tight when you reinstall it. Seems to me that is usually the problem.
Else, I think you just need to buy a brand new rifle. "Yes, dear, I know that $2,000 could have been used for something else, but my old rifle was having some serious problems and I didn't want to waste any more money on it. (Sniffle, sniffle.)" Works every time, once in a while.
-
Jimmy Veeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee,
Wondering how the lock behaves when removed from the stock? If there is a good solid catch when the hammer is back at full cock and it doesn't act like that, you might want to not tighten the lock so tight when you reinstall it. Seems to me that is usually the problem.
Else, I think you just need to buy a brand new rifle. "Yes, dear, I know that $2,000 could have been used for something else, but my old rifle was having some serious problems and I didn't want to waste any more money on it. (Sniffle, sniffle.)" Works every time, once in a while.
LOL, that's good, John. Yer gaining more and more wisdom as time goes on!
I hang with a group of guys who can look at it and see if your suspicion is correct, would jump at the chance to look it over. I don't play with these things much myself, though I could I suppose.
-
Over the weekend we did our little Winter thing at the club. Didn't win the walk thru but finished high enough to get a nice prize.
During the shoot noticed the hammer was down a few times, which is unusual since my habit after the shot is to pull back the hammer to full cock and remove the spent cap remnants, before re-charging. When cleaning after I got home, I discovered when in full cock, I could touch the back of the hammer and it would go down with very little pressure. That was a surprise. Not long ago, there was an issue where the hammer would not catch consistently at half cock, never was an issue, though. The the half cock position functions fine now.
So, I'm wondering why the lock is behaving like that. Should be addressed, since when hunting I usually leave the rifle capped at full cock and it could easily go off unintended! Didn't hunt with it this past Fall, darn good thing.
Rondo, any thoughts?
Jimmy,... it sounds as though the full-cock notch isn't be fully engaged,.... when was the last time you gave the "innards" of the lock a good cleanin'?
-
when was the last time you gave the "innards" of the lock a good cleanin'?
Long enough that I can't remember when...!
-
when was the last time you gave the "innards" of the lock a good cleanin'?
Long enough that I can't remember when...! :rt th
It sure sounds like both notches (full-cock and half-cock) in the tumbler might have somethin' in'em though.
Worse case scenario is,.... you can send the lock to me, and I'll fix it. :)
-
Thanks for the input, rondo...
Worse case scenario is,.... you can send the lock to me, and I'll fix it. :)
Yeah, word is your expert services come at a high cost! 8)
-
Thanks for the input, rondo...
Worse case scenario is,.... you can send the lock to me, and I'll fix it. :)
Yeah, word is your expert services come at a high cost! 8)
No worries,...I always try to keep my "lock-repair fee",.... a little below the value of the entire gun. :rt th
Another thing you might consider is,.... I've got a brand new flint-lock that would slip right into the Swan, the new lock would need to be "drilled and tapped" for the lock-bolt,.... and your percussion drum removed and replaced with a vent liner on your barrel. :rt th
-
Another thing you might consider is,.... I've got a brand new flint-lock that would slip right into the Swan, the new lock would need to be "drilled and tapped" for the lock-bolt,.... and your percussion drum removed and replaced with a vent liner on your barrel.
You told me the same thing before she arrived and I still haven't made up my mind...
-
Jimmy,.... you might also try backing the set-trigger screw "out 1/2 to 1 full turn" (the little screw between the triggers) if cleanin' don't fix your problem,...
-
okie doke
-
Another thing you might consider is,.... I've got a brand new flint-lock that would slip right into the Swan, the new lock would need to be "drilled and tapped" for the lock-bolt,.... and your percussion drum removed and replaced with a vent liner on your barrel.
You told me the same thing before she arrived and I still haven't made up my mind... :rt th 
-
(what's it been now,... 15 years?)
Thereabouts, and all the beaver's long been trapped out...
-
Your problem could be several things it is best to sought it out soon because it could get worse .Remove the lock and see if the full cock notch is clear of gunk also look at the nose of the sear to see if it has knurled over, you should also look to see if the sear is binding on the wood especially on the sear tail where it engages the trigger.
Feltwad
-
Your problem could be several things it is best to sought it out soon because it could get worse .Remove the lock and see if the full cock notch is clear of gunk also look at the nose of the sear to see if it has knurled over, you should also look to see if the sear is binding on the wood especially on the sear tail where it engages the trigger.
Feltwad
Thank you...
-
Hammer push off is frequently caused by negative angle on the sear/full cock notch.
-
Was it holding for several years then just noticed push off? Broken sear? Trigger return spring too light?
-
Was it holding for several years then just noticed push off?
Sure, worked pretty much like it was supposed to. Then, a few years ago it woudn't catch at half cock very well. With noticing the recent problem, that problem has gone away. I have never worked on a lock before. When I take it to the club, I'll see if those 'amateurs' can figure it out... 
Really haven't noticed anything unusual with the triggers.