Traditional Muzzleloading Association
Shooting Traditional Firearms and Weapons => General Interest => Topic started by: smokepolepaul on June 22, 2018, 02:54:11 PM
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I'm considering casting round balls and REAL bullets in .50 and .54 calibers. Never done any casting. I've been reading and watching videos.
Is pure 99.9% lead what I would need to use? Will be shooting them in Lyman and Pedersoli rifles.
Been looking at Roto Metals site. https://www.rotometals.com/pure-soft-lead-metal-99-9-5-pounds/
Any suggestions and/or guidance on casting would be greatly appreciated. I also have Lyman's Cast Bullet Handbook. Just got it.
Many thanks,
Paul
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I've no experience castin' REAL bullets,.... but for castin' round balls, either pure lead (99.9%) and/or wheel weights, work fine. :bl th up
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I've cast both round ball and R.E.A.L. with "real" lead with no problems. The lead I have is soft enough to scratch with my thumb nail, so it's pretty close to being pure. Bought it years ago at a scrap metal place in Oregon, have given some away and still have enough to last me until I'm looking up at grass roots. You might see if there is a scrap metal dealer around your part of the country who has lead. And the test I learned away back then was to see if it could be scratched with a thumbnail. If it won't then it is too hard.
-Kees-
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Thank you very much. I appreciate everyone's help. :hairy
I have everything ordered and it should be here this week. Looking forward to getting started.
Paul
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Here's something to consider. Rifles have lands and grooves whose purpose is to grab the ball/patch and spin it. The softer the lead the easier it is for the lands to press themselves into the ball for a better grip. It's also easier to ram the ball down the bore as the ball comforms to the rifling. Wheel weight metal alloy is hard and resists conforming to the rifling. This makes things more difficult and may require the use of a smaller ball. I see more burned patches from gas blow-by when trying to use WW in a rifle.
WW does have its place. A smoothbore likes it just fine. I think it's a waste of good soft lead to shoot it out of a smoothie. Save the soft stuff for your rifles.
John
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Thank you John. I appreciate the additional information.
Paul
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I used wheel weights for patched round balls until I dry balled one. Bullet was too hard to accept the screw to retrieve it. Had to remove nipple and dribble powder into the chamber. Several times. Recast them all into slingshot ammo.
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i've cast REALs and balls and i would heed john's advice on the conicals and make sure to use as pure a lead as possible. patched balls don't matter much.
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I use what lead i can get for my cannons(smooth bore) most of it is WW, and works fine, i buy the cast balls for my small arms(pistols/rifles). Just dont think it is worth casting ant thing under 1 inch.
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I use what lead i can get for my cannons(smooth bore) most of it is WW, and works fine, i buy the cast balls for my small arms(pistols/rifles). Just dont think it is worth casting ant thing under 1 inch.
Your comment got me to thinkin' and doin' some figurein',......... :bl th up
100,.... .530 Hornady round balls from Track of The Wolf cost,.... $15.29 plus shipping and weigh 3.2 lbs.
I pay $1.50 per pound for 99.9% pure lead I get from a foundry,.... so, those same 100 .530 round balls, actually cost me $4.80 to cast (once I've bought a mold which can be used 1000's of times). :)
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Great discussion on cast round ball from pure lead and/or wheel weights. I learned a great deal and not feel better about using ww to run balls for my smoothbore.
I am getting more into trekking all the time so for me running my own round balls is part of the authenticity of my persona.
Again thanks for increasing my understanding. Great to have folks who know what they are talking about.
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the bottom line for me is, when in doubt i use as pure a lead as possible for all flintlock rifle and smoothie balls, patched or otherwise. i save the hard stuff for the BPCR PPB bullets, where the hardness is sorely needed.